This little lot appeared yesterday about 45 minutes into a journey for no obvious reason, along with a couple of messages:

No bend lighting (AFS) function - owner's manual

Error stabilization control (ESC)

Optical parking system is not available at present

 

The vehicle drives perfectly well, apart from the missing parking system, but obviously something's amiss - though it's a very odd collection of warnings. Before having to get the dealer involved I'd very much appreciate any observations please. 

 

 

 

Could be an ABS sensor on one of the hubs!

Test the battery first of all.

 

Do you have a code reader or know of someone who does?

@docc The collection of lights in the speedometer made me think "wheel sensor" or "charge circuit". Do you have normal function of the "battery" light?

Personally I would scan it, an all modules scan, that takes all of 5 minutes and would give you a better insight.

To add to the above, if you have a CTEk charger, I would plug it in overnight and see what happens.

Recently had very similar lights, abs, tyre pressure, no bend lighting, traction control. Happened once or twice randomly, then came on and stayed on.  Checked with vcds was intermittent drivers abs sensor.  Sensor was £19 at local motor factor and local garage charged £35 to fit.  Skoda wanted £82 just for the part. Been good since.  You would have to check with a reader or vcds to confirm first though.

6 hours ago, Prezafab said:

To add to the above, if you have a CTEk charger, I would plug it in overnight and see what happens.

Thanks - yes, I use a CTEK regularly to keep the battery in tip-top condition. It was fully charged when we set off on the journey, showed absolutely no problem starting, and the fault occurred after 45 minutes' driving.  The battery's several years old though - but it gets limited use and I'm sure the CTEK has helped its longevity.

4 hours ago, Mikek3111 said:

Recently had very similar lights, abs, tyre pressure, no bend lighting, traction control. Happened once or twice randomly, then came on and stayed on.  Checked with vcds was intermittent drivers abs sensor.  Sensor was £19 at local motor factor and local garage charged £35 to fit.  Skoda wanted £82 just for the part. Been good since.  You would have to check with a reader or vcds to confirm first though.

Thanks - that sounds promising!

7 hours ago, aubrey said:

Personally I would scan it, an all modules scan, that takes all of 5 minutes and would give you a better insight.

 

7 hours ago, petrolcan said:

Test the battery first of all.

 

Do you have a code reader or know of someone who does?

I have a cheap Chinese EDIAG YA101 OBD2 Scanner, which cost about £12, three years back. I've never used it, have no idea whether it's any good, and have no idea how to use it - though I'm sure there are videos online which will show me. 

7 hours ago, Paws4Thot said:

@docc The collection of lights in the speedometer made me think "wheel sensor" or "charge circuit". Do you have normal function of the "battery" light?

Thanks - the battery light's behaving normally.

Really appreciating all the advice here. The car’s just over 10 years old now, had it from new, and up to now it’s been pretty much fault free - ludicrously low mileage of 17,000 though (all long runs, no short trips)! 
 

I do know an auto electric guy with a good reputation. If he puts his checks on it, is he likely to be able to identify the actual fault if it is something like an ABS sensor? Would the AA be able to do the same?

If you have a scanner it’s pretty easy to check yourself.  Plug is down by drivers right knee.  Plug in scanner and turn ignition to accessory, this will bring reader to life. Scroll on scanner menu to find “read codes”. Press enter or select and either tell us the fault code number here or tell us what it says on the scanner and we can help further from there

7 minutes ago, docc said:

I do know an auto electric guy with a good reputation. If he puts his checks on it, is he likely to be able to identify the actual fault if it is something like an ABS sensor?

Yes and no. Personally I'd only rely on fault codes to tell me that the fault is at $corner, and then inspect the wiring and sensor on that corner.

What I'm not saying is that just because the code says "$corner ABS sensor" that the fault is with the sensor rather than the wiring. I can't advise that the fault is "this" because there are at least 2 possibilities for each wheel, and you need access to the car to determine which possibility is the actual fault.

15 minutes ago, docc said:

 

I do know an auto electric guy with a good reputation. If he puts his checks on it, is he likely to be able to identify the actual fault if it is something like an ABS sensor? Would the AA be able to do the same?

I think I would just speak to him or a good local garage. If it's driving ok, it's very likely to be a sensor.

17 hours ago, petrolcan said:

Test the battery first of all.

 

Do you have a code reader or know of someone who does?

Early days with the EDIAG YA101 OBD2 Scanner - and I need to learn how to interpret it.  But the voltage started at 11.9 while I was using it and dropped to 11.7 - too low, I believe.  But the battery is 10 years old!  Time to be replaced I think.  Bosch or Yuasa, I wonder?

Have a look here.   www.advancedbatterysupplies.co.uk

Good choice & very quick delivery.

Lots of choice with 4 years warranty.

Or Varta.

Hi

 

If the fault occurred when you were driving along, the battery would be under charge by the alternator and would be typically at 14.5 volts.  So I'm more inclined to say a wheel sensor.

 

Probably not a bad idea to replace your 10 year old battery before the winter anyway, but I don't think it will cure the reported problem.

 

I have known car batteries to work well for as long as 17 years and as short as 3.  Same car (not a Yeti), both reputable makes.  There seems to be no way of telling.

59 minutes ago, Austin 7 said:

Hi

 

If the fault occurred when you were driving along, the battery would be under charge by the alternator and would be typically at 14.5 volts.  So I'm more inclined to say a wheel sensor.

 

Probably not a bad idea to replace your 10 year old battery before the winter anyway, but I don't think it will cure the reported problem.

 

I have known car batteries to work well for as long as 17 years and as short as 3.  Same car (not a Yeti), both reputable makes.  There seems to be no way of telling.

Thanks. The wheel sensor’s looking the favourite, isn’t it.  It’ll have to be the main dealer round here, but at least if it is that it’s not as catastrophic as that collection of warning lights suggests!
 

I’m lining up that battery replacement. 10 years is pushing it! Halfords will fit a

Yuasa HSB013/HSB027 with a 5 year Guarantee for around £120, which is pretty competitive. They should at least manage that without upsetting any of the electronics (how is that achieved?) which stops me from doing it myself these days!

22 minutes ago, docc said:

 

I’m lining up that battery replacement. 10 years is pushing it! Halfords will fit a

Yuasa HSB013/HSB027 with a 5 year Guarantee for around £120, which is pretty competitive. They should at least manage that without upsetting any of the electronics (how is that achieved?) which stops me from doing it myself these days!

I replaced ours just before we got a 'new' Yeti in February.

 

It's very easy. My only two learnings were:-

1) I cut off the original cloth insulation blanket as it got in the way (and pointless in UK)

2) I had 3 warning lights once I'd connected the new one up. The steering wheel icon was cleared once I'd turned the wheel from full lock to lock and driven back and forward .The others cleared, and I didn't need to plug anything in etc to clear them

Edited 5 July, 20241 yr by Prezafab

Tanya are very competitive for batteries and deliver next day.  Their price for the Yuasa  YBX5027 is £81.21.  I recently changed my Yeti batttery and it is easy to DIY, with no coding required if you car doesn't have stop-start.

 

PS I didn't need to cut the cloth insulation.

 

 

Edited 5 July, 20241 yr by DGW

 

Docc

For a Yeti 1.2 tsi Petrol-Non stop start.

ABS HEAVY DUTY 012 CAR BATTERY

£57 includes vat & delivery.

(Always double check with your reg number)

4 year warranty.

I have used ABS for many years now & never had a problem with them.

Just two weeks ago I had a customer with a faulty batt, & they replaced foc next day.

 

 

 

On 04/07/2024 at 06:11, docc said:

 

I have a cheap Chinese EDIAG YA101 OBD2 Scanner, which cost about £12, three years back. I've never used it, have no idea whether it's any good, 

You need a good OBD scanner that can scan all VAG systems. I use VCDS and I've heard good about Carista.

Your fault is very unlikely to be engine related which is the basic open standard of OBD 2, you need to scan other control modules and especially the abs module.

You need the correct tools for the task, which I doubt something costing £12 is.

I have Carista and OBDEleven and the latter is a whole world better!

Just returning to this thread to update it - and to say thanks for all the input.  When I first saw the Christmas Tree of warning lights I feared the very worst, but the problem was exactly as stated here by so many knowledgeable people - a failed ABS sensor.

 

If I had any mechanical skills it would have been a relatively cheap job, but I don't, so it was a dealer job.  £120 for the diagnostics and £500 for the job (including bearing).  I know a non-franchised garage would have done it for less (and who knows whether the reported corrosion on the ABS ring really necessitated changing the bearing as well as the sensor?) but we don't have one round here any longer post-Covid so it wasn't really an option. And, rightly or wrongly, I do trust this particular dealer.

 

Anyway - thanks for the information, guys.  It was invaluable and reassuring.

I have exactly the same issue on my 2016 1.2

I was thinking of an OBDC plug in...can anyone suggest something half decent please? More than £12 but less than £80!

Thanks in advance!