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[Question] - Felicia 1.3 MPi Alex HVAC unit

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Hello, everyone, 

 

I am currently in the process of purchasing an Alex air conditioner (which, if I am not mistaken, was an optional set offered by Škoda dealers back in the day). It is a complete working set for the 1.3 MPi engine, very much like the one you see on the car in the first 2 pictures below (although in seemingly better condition), with the only difference being that the version I am about to buy was most likely used for cars without power steering, as the donor car which it is currently in does not have it (just like mine). Which gets me to the biggest problem, as I am about to be removing the complete set from the donor car myself in the coming weeks. 

 

As such, I decided to ask all of you experienced enthusiasts out there. Do you have any tips or tricks that I should know before removing the system from the donor car and then installing it into my own Felicia? Or perhaps any original schematics for the Alex unit that I could use? I tried to look for such documents on various forums before, but it seems that the files are fairly hard to come by nowadays, and the schematics for the OEM A/C unit are of course unfortunately not very helpful in this case. 😔

 

And possibly one more question. Can this type of air conditioner work with the "warm climate" 2-pin fan (6U0 959 455C, probably identical to the 165 959 455S fan for the 1.6 engine), in the 3rd picture below) or the late model 3-pin fan (6U0 959 453B) which were supposedly used with the OEM unit? Or does the fan motor included with the set have a proprietary connector or any special characteristics? It may be different on the donor car for me of course (there's a very large fan with a thin motor and a simple circular shroud on that one, kind of similar to the 1.9D OEM fan, but with a simpler shroud), but I would like to know, which connector your radiator fan motor on the Alex unit uses, as I already own a brand new OEM fan shroud (also in the 3rd picture), as well as the OEM Autopal radiator (6U0 121 251C) for the A/C equipped model that the shroud mounts onto very nicely. 

 

Thank you all very much for your help. 😄

 

Alex HVAC 01.png

Alex HVAC 02.png

Radiator fan shroud.png

Hiiii,
The proper fan is the dual-speed unit.
Controlled by AC and thermoswitch in both speeds 130W/250W.
The best circuit is designed by me Still work a treat

1 hour ago, theNFS25 said:

Do you have any tips or tricks

get the complete wiring as well, and the HVAC control panel preffited with the limit switches + the ecu wiring loom. Heck it would be better to get the complete modified evaporator assembly. The relay assembly the thermistor and the recirc flap wiring as well the flap for the windscreen heating

 

SKO 11137.pdf

322386816_1648906328871526_5534846985774524680_n.thumb.jpg.813980bbb26214ae798b9426cbd8319c.jpg

IMG_20221231_115324.jpg.41c64953054a4bda69f4903ffc835c8b.jpg

@theNFS25 as you already have seen @Thefeliciahacker has work on this matter, you can also ask for help from a fellow country man the @Papez  is Czechian too.

I have the same model and i have changed the radiator fan, also keep in mind that there are 2 radiators fans motors for warm and cold climates, radiators for vehicle with a/c or no.

 

 

14 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

radiator fan, also keep in mind that there are 2 radiators fans motors for warm and cold climates, radiators for vehicle with a/c or no.

Oems have unified their parts sadly 

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Oems have unified their parts sadly 

 

6U0959455A

with this code they sell radiator fan motor with 6 and with 4 blades too !

38 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

with this code they sell radiator fan motor with 6 and with 4 blades too !

exactly if the op wants we will advise him on tested and high quality parts

  • Author

Thank you very much for the answers, guys. :) 

I really appreciate all the suggestions, as well as the extensive documentation provided by @Thefeliciahacker. That really will help a lot during the removal from the donor car. 

 

As the A/C will be going into the car at some point before next summer (probably at the end of the next winter season, I will give all of the details about the fan a good thought first, and get everything prepared with as much precision as possible. But seeing that I already have the nice OEM shroud and Autopal radiator, I will probably go with the "MAHLE CFF 7 000S" 150W/250W fan (in the picture), as that one should be sufficient for this use in our climate, and should fit the shroud that I have perfectly. 

 

 3240b3b761f477dab762b5079b419befa2d3656b.jpg

I have found that Bosch produces such fans 250/150W 280mm but with 2 codes.

0130 107 262: Not for cold climates

0130 109 237: for cold climates (a little bit higher price)

The weird is that the local Skoda dealers and the spare part stores sell the 0130109237 model although here in Greece we have high temperatures.

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485671-bosch-radiator-fan-for-felicia-help-wanted/

Edited by D.FYLAKTOS

  • Author

According to a quick research of these 2 part numbers, it would seem that there is a mistake in the description of the 2 fans. 

 

The "0130107262" seems to be the OEM non A/C, 2-pin variant (no middle pin) used by Škoda for warm climate Felicia models. The "0130109237" should be the dual-speed, 3-pin variant used with A/C equipped cars. 

 

Both variants tend to come up when searching for one or the other, but this is what seems to be the case there. 

Be careful with that 3 pin plug, in mine was wrong and of course the scales were opposite.

Double check the fan speed I and II before you take the car for test out in the road.

OEMS tend to unify parts nos

Hi, nice to see another Czech here :) Have you tried to look up some info from Feliciaklub page and FB group?

 

Regarding the fan, I think that the only difference is capability to run on lower speed - two pin variant had resistor mounted on the fan shroud to run on the low speed (or no resistor to run on full speed only), the three pin variant has low speed function integrated.

 

Regarding the wiring, you can check factory wiring as well. @Thefeliciahacker's diagram looks similar to the factory wiring, it just uses some extra relays, that may be redundant - the factory solution, for example, uses radiator switch to run 1st speed directly, and only one relay to run 2nd speed - pressure and radiator switches are parallel and connected to the relay coil. You have some freedom there, the important part is how it works:

1st speed - triggered by the radiator thermoswitch (low) or AC switch/ compressor clutch signal

2nd speed - triggered by radiator switch (high) or AC high pressure switch

 

It's good that you got the original Autopal radiator - I read that aftermarket radiators might be an issue on 1.3 AC cars due to poor quality and Alex condenser may have pipes situated in a way that collides with a larger radiator

  • Author

Hello, my fellow Czech enthusiast. :) 

Unfortunately, I haven't looked there, because I managed to find @Thefeliciahacker's video on YouTube first, and that one was so helpful, that there was basically no need for me to look through the Czech forums, so I just asked over here, as both of our Greek friends really know quite a lot about the Alex A/C in particular. Especially the original Alex installation guide is an absolute lifesaver for me. 

 

I will have to check the connector and the wiring for the fan when I'll have taken all of the components off the donor car (hopefully this Saturday, if everything goes well). But it is really good to know, how the different fan versions operate. At the moment, my car still has the more square shaped 2-pin connector little non-A/C PAL fan which was identical to the older Škoda 78X and 74X lineup models. Of course, I'll have to take the entire bunch of wiring harnesses off the car as well with the A/C. If necessary, I also have 2 professional electrician friends, so we can work out a completely custom setup as well if we want to make the cooling fan behave in a different fashion for example. But that diagram from @Thefeliciahacker might very well be exactly what I am looking for, as it seems to be very carefully designed. 

 

That Autopal radiator was really hard to source, especially this particular A/C version, so as long as the OEM A/C shroud and 150/250W fan fits there, I'll be more than happy, especially in our climate. I'll also make sure that it lasts as long as it can even in the rough winter conditions that sometimes come over here. 

 

I do have one more question though. On most 1996 and newer Fellies, a thermostat with plastic housing (a very unreliable design from my experience over the years) was used. And these thermostats came in at least 2 different variants from the factory.

Now, on the donor car, the regular non-A/C version was retained... that one has the yellow ring on the temperature sensor. However, cars equipped with factory A/C units used an identical looking type, but with a blue ring (please see the attached picture).

My question therefore is, whether there actually is any kind of difference between the two. Because if there is, I currently have a rare chance to get a brand new original one of the blue variety, and it might be a good time to get it.  

 

Once again, thank all of you guys for the help. It's not an easy process to transplant the unit, but I'm really satisfied with how well it works, and with all of you having my back like this, I really do feel much better going for it. 

 

 

AC Thermostat.jpg

Edited by theNFS25

30 minutes ago, theNFS25 said:

do have one more question though. On most 1996 and newer Fellies, a thermostat with plastic housing (a very unreliable design from my experience over the years) was used. And these thermostats came in at least 2 different variants from the factory.

Now, on the donor car, the regular non-A/C version was retained... that one has the yellow ring on the temperature sensor. However, cars equipped with factory A/C units used an identical looking type, but with a blue ring (please see the attached picture).

My question therefore is, whether there actually is any kind of difference between the two. Because if there is, I currently have a rare chance to get a brand new original one of the blue variety, and it might be a good time to get it.  

 

I tried to find some info, originally, the yellow sensor was "faster" - not sure if it means that it reports higher temps to the ECU or it has lower heat capacity/better conductivity, but the effect is that the ECU switches earlier from cold/rich mode. It would make sense that AC models had the blue one to account for extra load from the AC compressor.

  • Author

Very well, then, 

 

since there's an actual difference, I'll try to source that blue original one. The non-original thermostat housing on my car is starting to sweat ever so slightly from the outside anyway, so that part is definitely due for a change very soon, and the A/C installation process might be a really good chance to proceed with it. :) 

 

Thank you very much for this valuable piece of info. 

2 hours ago, theNFS25 said:

do have one more question though. On most 1996 and newer Fellies, a thermostat with plastic housing (a very unreliable design from my experience over the years) was used. And these thermostats came in at least 2 different variants from the factory.

I've used vemo which is the circlip variant 

Mine has a and yellow ring. Others have ac and blue ring. Blue ringed ones have more regressive curve. They under report. If I were to choose I would always go with the one that reads the highest. 

The vemo kit I fitted didn't gave me proper hot starts so I switched back to my original yellow ringed thermostat. 

2 hours ago, theNFS25 said:

My question therefore is, whether there actually is any kind of difference between the two.

 

Always had problem with those with yellow ring, with those with blue no problem at all.

With yellow always had more coolant temperature indication in the gauge cluster, i don't want them.

I bought my Felicia with Alex a/c on it.

  • Author

Okay, that makes sense, 

 

I'll try the original Škoda blue thermostat, and we'll see how she'll run when that one's on there. If it's not ideal for me, going back to the yellow one is always possible anyway. :) 

 

Thank you all for the insight. 

44 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

If I were to choose I would always go with the one that reads the highest. 

 

With blue ring in case of overheating the needle goes up even till 120 'C.

 

On the other hand with yellow ring always had indications higher than normal and radiator fan delay, the car was suffering eith them.

I hate them, waist money and effort with them.

8 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

and radiator fan delay

huh?

8 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

huh?

 

Sounds weird but the radiator fan start had always a delay (same thermoswitch) and the needle was reaching the 100 ' C before start 2st scale.

Two with yellow ring and both the same behaviour.

  • Author

Hello, guys, wishing you all a nice day, 

 

once again, I would first like to thank each and every one of you for all of the feedback provided for the topic of this post so far. It's been immensely valuable and insightful for me. 

 

I wanted to ask you all about one more thing I'm not entirely sure about, which would be the thermoswitch for the fan. Now, at the moment, I do know that there were at least 2 different types of the 2-pin switch, each one tuned for a different climate that the car is to be driven in. At the moment, on my car, I have a brand new original one with the higher activation temperature of about 95°C on the temperature sensor, and the car's been running just fine with it. You can see that one in the 1st attached picture

 

However, from what I know, all original air conditioner equipped cars (and diesel-engined Felicias for that matter) got an entirely different, 3-pin variant (please see the 2nd attached picture), presumably because of the 2-step fan activation. I actually have a brand new original one in that version available for my car as well. But the official Alex installation manual does not mention that the switch would need to be changed, and as it was designed to be installed by a dealer on an originally non-A/C car, I presume, that the wiring there may still be designed for the 2-pin switch

 

As such, my question is, which one of the two general types is compatible with the wiring of the Alex A/C unit.

 

Again, thank you all very much. 

 

 

Thermoswitch non-AC 1998.jpg

Thermoswitch AC.jpg

I have Alex a/c and i have installed MAHLE 80-85 'C thermoswitch with 2 pins.

As i bought it had another brand with 2 pins.

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