Ok the noise is a constant loud rattle coming from this glovebox knuckle , any slight pressure on the closed glovebox will stop it until pressure released, if glovebox open then any slight pressure on knuckle towards the right stops noise too . Looks like the pivot is a hollow tube with allen key internal shape but 2mm is too small and 2.5mm is too big. Planning on trying a couple of felt washers slipped between parts soon

I think mine suffers from this too, though for me it comes and goes.  Is the spindle just a split pin that pushes out?

Bothered by the creaky hollow sounding lid I decided to drill some holes in the inside face, squirt in some expanding foam (low expansion stuff) and make it more solid. The inside face gets a felt layer on top when dried and tidied.  Had some second thoughts but tormented by noises I bought an identical model glovebox 2nd hand on eBay to take apart and learn from for this and teh knuckle sounds.

 

So, the inner and outer skins come apart with a prising tool but they are actually glued together on an inner framework. Also inside there I found the simple mechanism that works the pair of latches and the spring that operates that. So I can see which parts to avoid squirting foam into - don't want to bind the latches!. Some photos of the inside layout, and the roulette the expanding foam will play with the latch...

 

 

@Dappernut well I can take a look with my sacrificial glovebox    but I can't see much else in the mechanism that it could be.

Thank you.  Given it's glued, you'd have thought there wouldn't be much to rattle other than the mechanism.

Ok so the pin is made of a rolled piece of something with a split along its length I pushed it out with a 3mm Allen so can try out some soft washers ahead of the real in-car glovebox. There seems to be too little room either end to convert it into a bolt with nut.
 

here is the pin, in and removed 

 

This is fun, ok the main body of the glovebox being single skinned is a giant resonator , the latch mechanism is kind of clipped onto side of box and can rock slightly because the back most clip has play in it and the box turns that play into much more noise than you’d expect. Resting a finger against the loose clip stops the noise. I think this is the same as the pressure on the knuckle I’m finding its way to the mechanism. 
 

so :

 

a) make some felt washers for the pin and see if it does the trick on real glovebox 

 

if it doesn’t solve it:

 

b) find way to make that clip solid, I’m tempted to use JB Weld instead of trying to wedge stuff behind the mechanism which might come loose or compress over time.

 

c) bite bullet and remove real glovebox , check and glue that same spot and then if room add some deadening mat to the glovebox rear.

 

You have to remove the vents to get the box out so I could check that creaky thing out too while I’m at it

Here is the mechanism both clips circled in yellow allow it to rock slightly and create a knocking noise . The hatched area has room for a layer of deadening mat whatever else, and the mechanism was very easy to remove . Will be able to add the mat and then reattach it with some jb weld on the clips . 

Made a discovery ! The 2nd hand box had the issue where it opened itself on ‘bumps’ or with a slight push . Closer inspection showed that the ferrule had come off the cable outer , in effect making the cable longer and not leaving so much movement possible for the latch.
 

hHere it is removed from button but it looked the same when fitted to the button. The wire outer should be inside the brass ferrule.

 

You can see where I started to file the outer so I could get it back on. With some more filing the plastic outer fitted back inside the ferrule and the latch now has a really positive action and doesn’t pop open on ‘bumps’. This self opening glovebox thing seems to be common I think this is at least one reason and fix for it I didn’t even have to push the ferrule far onto the outer but at least 3mm did the trick.

Also, the jb weld worked perfectly with the two plastic types of the main box tabs and the very stiff plastic of the mechanism. 

This is all really helpful.  Good job!  I'd hoped that simply popping the pin and adding a couple of felt washers would get 90% of it making it 'good enough'.

I hope that the washers would prevent enough sideways movement to mean the tabs don’t even get movement yeah. Also I realised that if the tabs need gluing then I think you can access them with the box in situ by removing the air vent next to it. Not sure yet but I think you’ve had the vents out before?

I took the centre one out next to the glovebox, yes.  Basically you need a right angle pick or soemthing similar to just pull it forwaards and it slips out.  Just a friction fit using 4 x metal clips.  

Bad news im afraid, I made two washers out of soft material and tried to fit today, there is virtually no space for them I couldn't get them in, they were very thin here they are impaled on a a 3mm allen key. So I think it's going to have to be the loose fixing tab glue option. 

 

@Dappernut so I just pull the vent out? I’m not releasing the spring clips with the pick?

Yes, there are a couple of holes on each side of the vent body, accessed between the louvre strips. Just put the pick in each hole in turn, pull out of the dash and wiggle the vent forward/out. There is no locking mechanism. It's just the spring clips holding it in place through friction ( and peraps a small detent in the dash). There is a picture in one of the workshop manual PDFs. I recall I did have to pull quite hard and was worried about something breaking. There is some fabric tape stuff on the metal clips and that largely tore off as a result.

Re: the washers for the knuckle. Could you get just one washer in and would that take of any slack, or is there litteraly zero play?

Doh I bought that tool thinking I needed to release the clips gently using the notch! Ah well it’ll come in useful one day, thanks!

Re the washers no not really room . The issue I think is the whole mechanism can rock on the loose tabs . Our finger pressure on that knuckle just stops it happening . Anyway I’ll get the vent out soon and see if I can access those tabs without removing the glovebox

Edited 4 March, 20251 yr by Adamo

Ok vent removed I can see the mechanism but dribbling glue into the right parts will be very tricky! Took the car for a drive minus vent and so far no rattles … comes and goes but possibly some kind of packaging issue when things squeeze up a bit… going to glue the chrome vent trim on to prevent rattles and add some deadening mat to back body of vent to suppress things a bit but first a few days driving without the vent to see what happens

22 hours ago, Adamo said:

Doh I bought that tool thinking I needed to release the clips gently using the notch! Ah well it’ll come in useful one day, thanks!

Of course, I'd never do that... 🙄

The vent louvre machanism when removed from the vehicle seems extremely rattley to me, though I couldn't immediately think of any way to deaden it. You obviously need something in contact with the louvres that would still allow them do move and which would maintain effective contact for (hopefully) as long as I keep the vehicle (i.e. several years).

I could never really convince myself one way or the other if the main culprit of the rattling was the glovebox or the central passange side vent. It's probably both...

Don't get me started about the second row seat buzzing... Something sounds loose, but I'll be blowed if I can work out what.

yeah seemed loose to me too. I glued the chrome trim on, and added a few bits of sound mat to the big flat parts and put teh vent back in. That at least has totally fixed that awful creaky noise every time someone pokes the vent while trying to stop the mysterious rattles hah. so I need a cold day really to drive around and see if the main rattle has gone but I haven't touched glovebox yet so would be surprised.

No noises from my mid row seats thankfully!

Edited 5 March, 20251 yr by Adamo

Back to the original topic! Annoying creaking from top area of passenger front door. Took door card off today - much easier than expected. Used butyl rope around creaky as hell interface of main door and the top trim stripe. Also added some to other material joins.

Then a single layer of peacemat over those areas and the main flat panels. Then about half the card covered with hydroweld sound absorbing fleece. Not going mad with it just want the creak to stop and the speaker to sound a bit better.

Pics before the peacemat really got going.

Also added the mat and fleece to window switch panel which appears to be a 3rd party thing hence the blue colour and was super thin plastic