Hi,

 

In February 2023 I bought a 2017 (March) 1.2 Fabia SE.  This was a downsize ! from a 2008 2.0l Scout which had a LOT of expensive problems pending.

The Fabia never seemed to get anywhere near published MPG, but returned an average 400 miles for each fill up. A few months back with no change in driving this dropped to aound 320 miles and stayed there.

Any thoughts on the sudden reduction in MPG ?  Otherwise, I am very happy with the car and surprised by the performance of the small turbo engine.

 

 

Cheers,

Lloyd

Hi, is this a manual or DSG gearbox?

Check wheel hubs for unusual heat after a drive, it's possible that the brakes have started binding.

2 hours ago, phoneman(ret) said:

The Fabia never seemed to get anywhere near published MPG, but returned an average 400 miles for each fill up

Quite normal but my last two tanks were:-

506 miles at 59.3 MPG in Oct.

527 miles at 63.5 MPG In Sept.

This is in a June 2016 1.2 TSI at 83K miles.

 

Are all your journeys short / around town?

What actual MPG are you getting?

 

Sounds like something is wrong though.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for the response, don't think brakes are binding but will check - Wow ! wish I was getting AG falco mileage !! Engine is 1.2 TSI , manual, with just under 70k miles on the clock.

 

When first bought, it would accelerate very well with little effort but now seems quite sluggish when cold (always starts first time hot or cold) improving as it warms up, but not as before. It does do a lot of short journeys, gets a fastish run every now and then, but has been doing similar driving style since bought.

 

Would some petrol additive help ? Or a tank of higher octane ?

 

Cheers,

Lloyd

When were the spark plugs changed and is there a clean  fresh air filter fitted?

Are the tyre pressures correct? 

 

Try a tank of E5 Super Unleaded 97 or 99 ron. 

 

As it is the Winter Formulation Petrol is being delivered from this wee to filling stations in Scotland and the north of England.

Less Hygroscopic and the E10 might well have less Bio Ethanol in.

And 97 or 99 ron Minimum can actually be the minimal ron. 

Trying premium fuel is not solving the problem, and unlikely to make any difference. If the engine seems down in power that would probably be the reason for poor fuel consumption.
ootoheres comment about tyre pressures is very pertinent. I found the ECO pressures improved mpg  by around 4 mpg, with autumn lower temperatures the pressures could easily have dropped by 5-10 psi.

 

Our 2015 1.2 TSI DSG does 45mpg on 3-5 mile journeys, on very rare long 70 mph motorway journeys it goes 55mpg. With 110bhp it’s a quick car, but it always has Shell V Power petrol.

Edited 18 October, 20241 yr by thamestrader

What are you using at present - 95? Doubtful that going to super unleaded would give a significant increase - you might see a slight decrease in consumption, which could balance the higher cost of super ( this is what I see this in my Octavia) Don't use any fuel additive - not necessary.

What is the odo reading, do you know if the spark plugs have been changed?

I'm wondering if you are having a turbo underboost issue.   

Superunleaded is not PREMIUM fuel it is a higher octane and can have more of a detergent package and for just an extra £2.50 a tank full a better running engine might well use a bit less fuel, or just feel better.

(Premium Diesel is a thing, higher detergents or Cetane.)

 

It is important to have correctly gapped plugs and a clean air filter and an increase fuel consumption is often the first noticeable sign of consumables needing replaced.

 

@phoneman(ret)  how many litres are you putting in every 320 miles? 

2 hours ago, phoneman(ret) said:

It does do a lot of short journeys, gets a fastish run every now and then, but has been doing similar driving style since bought.

That not best, when you bought it it didn't have the cumulative effect of all those short runs but 70k-miles is more than my wife's 2015 and it goes fine, turbo fine, engine not sluggish even when cold (but it is allowed to fully warm up, 90+C oil temperature) before being pushed, 90 hp 1.2 TSI 5-speed.  About around 44mpg IIRC, lots of just 2-mile journeys. 

 

What is a short run, does your oil temperature get up to 90+C for a reasonable part of those runs?

 

Has your car got one of those GDF/PPF ( gasoline/petrol particulate filter or called summat like that)  things (I can never remember which ones do)?

 

As already asked, what are all the tyre pressures like, when were the spark plugs changed, when was the engine air filter last changed, what's the history mileage/time interval of engine oil and filter changes?

 

Dragging brakes or partially blocked exhaust but you might notice those on oil temperature if not the 90C biased coolant temperature (see a theme here).

 

Not directly related to this but change or at least check of brake fluid, inspection at least of brakes are more important than anything on the engine - brakes, steering, suspension (all three incudes tyres) then safety electrics, lights, reflective number plates, windows and mirrors (see and be seen) all more important than engine, but back to engine.

 

Does your start/stop system always activate when it should?

 

Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition, but more questions are to get more information, sudden 20% drop in mpg has to have a reason (the actual mpg isn't as relevant in this case as there are so many variables to comparisons) I can easily get my neighbour's car to lower mpg with him as a passenger just for the fun of twinging his natural Yorkshire nature, and also demonstrated to him that (off cruise control which I never use, I did once in the 1980s but I didn't like it) ignoring the cars suggested gear selections (6-manual) can improve mpg as the biological electronic brain knows more than the car's computer program and inputs (well for now anyway). 

 

 

No GPF,s with a 1.2 TSI. or the first of the 1.0 TSI, later 2018 they were fitted. 

Hi,

 

Firstly, thank you all for your posts - its realy helpful since I have only had the car less than 2 years. From the start I was quite surprised how it drove and performed (very good in town) and on the motorway.

When I bought the car, it had no service history and so it got a full service at around 61k mikes - now has a shade under 70k we don't do much miles these days.

Best MPG I have had (rarely) was 55 but it does do a lot of short journeys, but up to normal temperature all times (warms up quickly !!). Due to ill health, haven't been able to check tyre pressures or overheating brakes, but will do this ASAP.

Main worry is MOT next month and if it is running rich, then the CAT may have suffered and emissions are bad.

I was hoping for an instant fault diagnosis - change this sensor (lots to choose from) and all is well !! Don't want a garage changing this and that at £100s a go.

Sorry, just added, don't use Start/Stop gets switched off as soon as engine started - should mean that the large battery will last a long time. 

 

Cheers,

Lloyd

Edited 23 October, 20241 yr by phoneman(ret)
forgot to respond to a point.

Lloyd what is a full "service" to you of a 5-6 year old car at 61k-miles, what exactly did that fully include?

 

I assume you were joking, as a retired person you must be old enough to realise that with modern cars, of this century particularly, you can't get an instant and particularly based on so little information.

 

By up to normal temperature quickly you probably mean the coolant temperature gauge but this is biased to show and stay at 90c what you want to look at is the oil temperature and you want that at 90+c for a while before you end your journey.

 

If you've got an Mot then best is to have two tankfuls of higher octane petrol running before, during and after the MoT and as many blow-out (Italian tune-up) long high revs runs, after getting the engine warmed to oil temperature of 90+c, as you can get in before the MoT to give the car a good blow out and clear as much as possible through the engine and exhaust.

 

The large battery isn't that large (only compared to more efficient electric system of Japanese and Korean cars) and the use, when required, of preventative charges with an appropriate battery charger maintainer after reading the car's Owner's Manual and charger maintainer instructions, you may get a long(er) life out of the battery, even if it has already been replace from the one it left the factory with.

 

If you want to see what the sensors report (doesn't mean they're at fault and replacing them will help) then you need to plug in a VW appropriate scan tool of the appropriate level.  Some Briskoda members have such machines and may be able to help you with at least a scan report if not more for beer tokens, others offer professional services so different rates, have a look here. -  https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

 

 

HTH but more info from you is needed to give more help.

 

Hi Nigel,

 

Yes, I was joking - the first time I looked under the bonnet I thought someone had installed a small oil refinery, so many pipes !

 

This is what the full service included, at a well known indy garage in Sheffield, which used to service my Scout for over 14 years.

 

Major service

Extended multi point inspection, computer diagnostic check, service indicator reset, service book stamp or update of Digital Service Schedule (if appropriate), oil change with Volkswagen UK supplied lubricants, Oil filter change, Screen wash top up with Volkswagen UK supplied fluid, Anti-freeze top up, Lights checked, Sump plug or washer replaced, Pollen filter changed, Fuel filter changed (Diesel)*, Air filter changed, spark plugs changed (Petrol), vacuum interior. Contact us if your vehicle is on variable interval servicing, or if you would like to change it to variable intervals. High voltage battery charged on hybrid vehicles. All consumables are Volkswagen Genuine Parts™.

All services include a complimentary vehicle health check.

Long gone are my days of taking engines to bits, as cars got more complicated I found there was less I could do and now its only checking oil & water, battery charging, tyres & screen wash etc. Oil temp is up to 90c after a relativly short run, but as soon as I can drive again, I will give it some longer runs. Last years MOT emissions were well in limits.

I have done one mod to the car, got the garage to fit me some LED DRLs since a lot of VAG cars drive around with only one DRL lit, not monitored by CanBus so no problems.

Thanks for your help,

Lloyd

Lloyd I'm amused at what's mentioned a VW sourced, including consumables and what's not mentioned as VW sourced, an expensive way of going on for oils, fluids and consumables but a pretty fair service of the engine and some other bits done.  Relatively unimportant engine is looked after but a big hole for the important things on the car like brakes, steering suspension (all three include tyres of course), good to see lights were checked.

 

Keep on doing your driver checks and maintenance and when required preventative battery charging, often best done by fully recharging the battery with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer after reading the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions, using something like a 4-amp (or less) charger (low and slow).

 

If you're getting the oil (not "water", coolant) temperature up to 90+C and with the engine service work you've had done you should be getting very reason MPG, of course this will be subject to your type of driving and the driving situations and environments - unless you leave a roof rack/box, cycle rack, something on tow, car full of heavy stuff.

 

Until a couple of years ago for the previous 16 years my one and only 'everyday' car was a 1973 MG Midget (lift the bonnet, like a Minor, to turn the heater on, one column stalk, 5 fuses, no standard electronics, all simple stuff so I know what you mean.

 

But you are ahead of me with your mod, I had lots of LED bulbs on my Midget (see and be seen) but didn't realise the Fabia incandescent DRL bulbs aren't on the CanBus, so you could help me, just to confirm with you, I could get a couple of 382 LEDs (from Classic Car LEDs Ltd.) and fit them to my wife's 2015 Fabia (despite the PITA/wrist job it is) and by themselves they would work and not upset the computers and throw up an amber-triangle-of-doom dash light?

Twice the RHS incandescent DRL has blown on my wife's 2015 Fabia and when you see the state of the bulb holder it's not surprising so I did wonder as the LEDs replacement bulbs can get hot at their base whether this would cause more hassle and expensive than letting an incandescent bulb silver/black out or blow, how long have you used your LED DRLs?

 

Personally I would prefer my wife to use sidelights rather than DRL as they only (as standard) illuminate the front of the car and not also the rear, hence so many running about  with some light to front and none to rear when it's dark.

 

On 23/10/2024 at 20:44, phoneman(ret) said:

it does do a lot of short journeys, but up to normal temperature all times (warms up quickly !!).

 

11 hours ago, phoneman(ret) said:

Oil temp is up to 90c after a relatively short run

With my Fabia 1.2 TSI at this time of year ( autumn ) I notice the following.

I am down in the South.

 

Water temperature can take 3-5 miles to actually get up to 90 C.

The temperature gauge in the car will show 90 C from about a real engine water temperature of about 75 C.

It also wont rise above 90 C until it reaches about 110 C.

I use an OBD dongle and an app on my mobile phone to check the actual water temperature.

 

Oil Temperature takes even longer to rise.

About 5 to 7 miles to reach 90 C +

Oil temperature will rise and fall as per use the engine is getting.

 

If your car is getting warmer quicker then perhaps it is burning too much fuel too fast.

Hence the poor fuel consumption.

 

On 23/10/2024 at 20:44, phoneman(ret) said:

if it is running rich

 

On 18/10/2024 at 21:46, phoneman(ret) said:

now seems quite sluggish when cold

Do you know the actual MPG the car is doing from recently?

ie. How much fuel does it take to fill the fuel tank and the mileage at which you have done.

 

Can you smell fuel?

 

Thanks. AG Falco

@nta16, if you had access to VCDS or Carista or similar, you could change which lights come on as DRLs, in as much as for certain, maybe Scandic  countries the requirement is for rear marker lights being on as well as the front DRLs - and that is not a bad idea, so far in my 24 years of owning VW Group cars, I don't seem to have get round to changing away from just "front DRLs" - though now with both cars having LED DRLs and LED rear marker lights, that is something that makes sense to change to.

 

I tend to be one of these strange/different people that don't normally leave the lights on auto as the point where I consider switching lights on either in poor weather conditions or low light conditions is normally a "bit ahead" of the car's point of doing this - and yes I know that you can alter that as well using VCDS.

 

Typically in UK at least, I'd think that light control should be on auto by default as the average UK driver seems to consider that if they start their journey in daylight then they should not be expected to switch their car lights on before the end of that journey, or when they really can't make out the road a few yards ahead of them - especially if they are driving a dark coloured car!

@rum4mo thanks, yes I was aware of "Scandy"(?) setting possibility but I'd not want to interfere with any setting on my wife's car as I don't want to potentially upset the VW computers and much more importantly my wife as it's her car.  I dislike "auto" most things on modern cars as often they're unreliable going on to not really functioning at all plus it makes some drivers totally disengage their brains, such as following Tw*tNavs, some seem to think there's a button or setting in the car to do everything for them and also have an over reliance on driver "aids" and "assists",  The rare times it really snows here apart from the gridlock of drivers often unable to drive you can also see cars covered in layer of snow all over other than where the wipers has moved the snow and on an open road travelling at the same speed and way as if it was a fine dry day.

 

Don't mention auto, I'm out in a car with auto wipers that really aren't soon and electronic handbrake with manual gears and start stop, lane assist , and, and .  .  .  what fun at roundabouts.

 

22 hours ago, nta16 said:

But you are ahead of me with your mod, I had lots of LED bulbs on my Midget (see and be seen) but didn't realise the Fabia incandescent DRL bulbs aren't on the CanBus,

On my 2018 Fabia with incandescent DRLs, when both failed in quick succession I was constantly nagged on the MFD every time I turned on the ignition so they must be monitored somehow.

13 hours ago, JXS said:

On my 2018 Fabia with incandescent DRLs, when both failed in quick succession I was constantly nagged on the MFD every time I turned on the ignition so they must be monitored somehow.

Thanks for info, discouraging to see that three years later VW have both sides playing up rather than mainly the right hand side.

 

I'll give Classic Car LED Ltd. a ring during the week and see if their now CanBus fooling DRL replacement bulb will beat the complexities of the VW programming.

 

Strong Canbus DRL Daylight Running Light White LED 1156 P21W 382 - "These are CANBUS compatible in the majority of cases and although unlikely with these, some vehicles still require extra load to stop bulb out warnings. This is not a fault with the LEDs as CANBUS systems do vary and it is impossible to match all." - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/strong-canbus-drl-daylight-running-light-white-led-1156-p21w-382

 

And the ones I saw previously - 

12V BA15S WHITE 21W LED 4014 SMD BULB CLASSIC / CANBUS P21W GLB382 - "These bulbs are canbus error free so can be used in modern cars too though not guaranteed suitable for VW/Audi as they run a different system." - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/12v-ba15s-21w-led-4014-smd-bulb-classic-vehicle-p21w-glb382

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the feedback, unable to drive at the moment (faulty foot) but will take up suggestions as soon as I can.

 

Regarding DRLs, my car is a March 2017 Fabia 1.2 SE (£20 road tax !) and in the infotainment centre you can turn off the DRLs - not sure why you would want to do that ? The reason for the LED swap (done by garage at service in March 2024 - (too old for wheel arch contortions) was that a lot of VAG group cars had on or both DRLs out - if they were monitored by CanBus surely they would get a warning ? P21W bulbs are not designed for continuous use, they get hot and burn out.

Since fitted, there have been no warnings, which means either they are not monitored or the bulbs realy are CanBus compatible.

Bulbs are 382 P21W from HIDs Direct - very bright difused spot but the side mounted "chips" are not quite bright enough to react with the reflectors. Very good quality bulbs,aluminium castings, but have seen some better ? ones since on Ebay etc that have moe "chips" on the sides.

If you think it is usefull, I will put a general post regarding DRL LED swap.

 

Cheers,

 

Lloyd

Yeap, I turned the DRL off via the infotainment menu,  I'm not sure why you'd want them on (without the rear lights too) but each to there own.  Perhaps the other VW cars turned them off too, especially if they keep discolouring or blowing or warnings.

 

If there are problems with the DRL lights you will get the the amber-triangle-of-doom and it will show up in the 'CAR' infotainment menu.  See the car's Owner's Manual (and don't say as a phone man you didn't read manuals or you're in for a disciplinary and loads of training courses. cancel any holidays). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

Yeap it's another PITA/wrists job changing those bulbs, plastic covers in wheel arches don't want to come off easily even after being cleaned and lubricated on the previous occasion and a fart of a job just putting the bulb holder back in, the breif twist required is a bit disconcerting too.

 

Yes light is a by-product of the bulbs heat is main thing.  On my wife's car the state of the rhs bulb and bulb holder showed something wasn't right or good enough, other lhs was nowhere near as bad.  The rhs was a non-factory bulb from what I could tell so had already been changed before, no on third bulb (at least) and DRL no longer used.

 

I'll stick with contacting Classic Car LEDs Ltd. about the LEDs they sell as I've dealt with them before and am confident in their products and what they say.

 

If you want to do a guide on anything there is a general Fabia (Mk 1, 2, 3 and 4) 'Skoda Fabia Guides' forum but as some models already have LED strips for DRL and changing bulbs is covered by the Owner's Manuals I'm not sure this would be the topic, but don't let me stop you if you think it will give further help or guides on anything else.

 

If you can't drive you could still perhaps get a scan report done at home (and a good chance IF required to do a preventative full recharge of the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer).

 

Let us know when anything happens, good luck.