1 minute ago, skomaz said:

The other thing to remember is that the dashboard temperature gauge is pretty dumb and will indicate 90 degrees over a wide range of actual temperatures (say 70 to 110).  The oil sensor temperature shown in the centre screen on the dashboard will be more accurate.

 

"More accurate" - aka less shi*

 

I agree though - watching the oil temp go from cold to over 110° sometimes, the coolant never changes from 90°... yeah right.

15 minutes ago, skomaz said:

The other thing to remember is that the dashboard temperature gauge is pretty dumb and will indicate 90 degrees over a wide range of actual temperatures (say 70 to 110).  The oil sensor temperature shown in the centre screen on the dashboard will be more accurate.

I am aware of temp gauge accurate of measurement. But I saw an difference of time to this gauge gets 90 deg. Few days ago it shows 90 much quicker then now. I need to check real coolant temp by obd11.

1 hour ago, radoszczak said:

I am aware of temp gauge accurate of measurement. But I saw an difference of time to this gauge gets 90 deg. Few days ago it shows 90 much quicker then now. I need to check real coolant temp by obd11.

 

To be honest, it's either the gauge (one way or another), the weather, or you've somehow overfilled the coolant in the last few days. If the car was losing coolant, the temperature of the coolant you have got would rise more quickly.

 

Does the alleged temperature fluctuate at all? When the engine oil temp went on my 1.0 Ibiza, it climbed to over 100° very quickly, and fluctuated between 100° and 120° constantly. If yours isn't fluctuating, I'd suggest it seems unlikely to be the sensor.

 

If you're convinced there's an issue, then I'd look at the heater matrix. It's a common issue, and if it's blocked then it could cause issues with coolant flow and thus temperature.

If you are sure the car is heating slower and weather is not the cause, most common reason are water pump (the oem pump has kind of clutch/valve integrated into it, that first runs smaller circulation to warm up the engine faster, the system might fail so that it always runs the large circulation, causing slower heating) and radiator thermostat (leaking thermostat lets coolant to flow into radiator before it needs cooling).

 

Thermostat can be diagnosed by driving the car to lets say 70 C and then stopping and trying with hand if the hose around thermostat going into radiator is hot, it should be cold before ~90 C

 

Some times it is dsg cooler thermostat.

Hi, today was another test, below:

 

Starts with 18*C deg inside car temp (not like yesterday 22)

 

1. Cold start at 4*C deg. 

2. Slow drive becouse of traffic, about 20-30 kmph, disntance 3-4 km

3. After 5 km I had 90*C deg on dash gauge

4. Oil 50*C deg, after 5-6 km

5. After leave town, normal road at 80-90 kmph

6. After 10 km I had about  78-81 *C deg oil temp

 

Seems to be ok ?

8 hours ago, RattleWagon said:

If you are sure the car is heating slower and weather is not the cause, most common reason are water pump (the oem pump has kind of clutch/valve integrated into it, that first runs smaller circulation to warm up the engine faster, the system might fail so that it always runs the large circulation, causing slower heating) and radiator thermostat (leaking thermostat lets coolant to flow into radiator before it needs cooling).

 

Thermostat can be diagnosed by driving the car to lets say 70 C and then stopping and trying with hand if the hose around thermostat going into radiator is hot, it should be cold before ~90 C

 

Some times it is dsg cooler thermostat.

 

Since car pruchase in 2022, I have not replace water pump. Timing belt was changed at 160 kkm, but pump stays becouse of no leaks and mechanic said it should run as well. Now I have 196kkm on dash, still no leaks. I think pupm works well, instead I could be observing to hot cooling fluid right ? Gauge never gets higer then 90 deg. 

If the pump fails so that it does not run, runs poorly or is stuck circulating only the small coolant circulation, then yes temp would go high. But if stuck running on large circulation, then heating up would take longer. Pump does not necessarily leek to have these problems. And a leak does not necessarily mean there is other problems with the pump.

 

Some people replace the oem pump with more traditional pump that always runs on large (full) circulation.

 

And the pump is just one possibility. I dont believe you have any problems, your tests seem normal. If this bothers you, consider masking the grill in winter time to reach operating temp similar to summer time.

Edited 15 January, 20251 yr by RattleWagon

27 minutes ago, RattleWagon said:

If the pump fails so that it does not run, runs poorly or is stuck circulating only the small coolant circulation, then yes temp would go high. But if stuck running on large circulation, then heating up would take longer. Pump does not necessarily leek to have these problems. And a leak does not necessarily mean there is other problems with the pump.

 

Some people replace the oem pump with more traditional pump that always runs on large (full) circulation.

 

And the pump is just one possibility. I dont believe you have any problems, your tests seem normal. If this bothers you, consider masking the grill in winter time to reach operating temp similar to summer time.

 

Do I Have termostat integrated in coolant pump in my chpa ?

Yes.

 

And manual says 'start of opening approx. 87 C'.

 

Edit:

And what I said about the valve controlling the circulation at the pump applies to diesels so sorry for confusing. In your engine the pump integrated thermostat does the same job.

 

Edit2:

Yet, you can test if the thermostat is leakin by driving the car to ie. 60-70 C and then try if the hoses to radiator are cold or hot.

Edited 15 January, 20251 yr by RattleWagon