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A-Pillar Trim Removal - Suggestions?

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Hey together,

 

I finally had the time to research and choose a dashcam for my superb.
Now the next challange is to route my hardwire kit cables to the fuse box, and there is no way around the a pillar.

 

Does anybody removed the mk4 a pillar and can give me advice how to do so?

 

Thanks for the help in advance

On my MK3 i fed the cable tucked under the front of the headlining around the pillar trim top. I pulled the door rubber off and tucked the cable down the pillar to the fuse box then put the door rubber back on so i did not have to take the trim off, On my new MK4 I purchased a USB C short cable and plugged it into the USB port by the mirror and this works well on the ignition   

  • Author

The USB-C doesn't have enough power to start my cam. Need at least 5V 2A, unfortunately. And it doesn't works for the parking function.

If I'm correct, u cant pull the door rubber away anymore 😕

But thanks for the info anyway :)

Are you sure that the usb- c port, adjacent to the mirror won't power your dashcam? I have a 2024 L&K estate and the above port powers my nextbase dash cam.   I had an issue with my c port however, as it was loose, within the housing and when I plugged in the connection was not fully made, resulting in non operation of the cam. I had to prize off the plastic cover to re seat the usb c port back in its place.

 

That said, It does only switch on with the ignition but your cameras internal battery should be sufficient to operate the device should your car get bumped.  Failing that  and to avoid removing the A pillar trim, I have in the past run the camera supply cable up inside the internal part of the rubber door seal. Perhaps this may be an option? 😀

  • Author
11 hours ago, Stuartie said:

Are you sure that the usb- c port, adjacent to the mirror won't power your dashcam? I have a 2024 L&K estate and the above port powers my nextbase dash cam.   I had an issue with my c port however, as it was loose, within the housing and when I plugged in the connection was not fully made, resulting in non operation of the cam. I had to prize off the plastic cover to re seat the usb c port back in its place.

 

That said, It does only switch on with the ignition but your cameras internal battery should be sufficient to operate the device should your car get bumped.  Failing that  and to avoid removing the A pillar trim, I have in the past run the camera supply cable up inside the internal part of the rubber door seal. Perhaps this may be an option? 😀

I'm pretty sure, cause i plugged in my smartphone and it recognized the (low) charge immediatly. But the port is in fact a bit loose, how did u reseat it ^^

mhhh maybe I'll try this too, but it's pretty tight in there at my superb.

Edited by BaXm_Superb

Hi Baxm.  I gently pushed and pulled at the trim behind the mirror until  it came loose ( but didn't completely remove it) then I could see that the usb-c female inside had jumped out of the little, fragile clip holding it in place. I pused it back in, And then held it with my finger until my dashcam power lead was fully seated and making a good connection. I then clipped the plastic mirror trim stuff back into place. I Dare say if I remove my dashcam power lead I will have to do this all again. Hope this helps. S. 

  • Author

For all that stumble upon this thread.

I route the cable from the cam to the headliner, pushed it between headliner and window, then pushed the bottom part of the sensorcasing/mirrorpillar down and pushed the cable in the casing, then it goes to the headliner again till it arrives at the a-pillar. You can push the trim away from the a-pillar till the secure clips hold it in place, then route the cable between the a-pillar trim and the actual pillar, make sure to pull it under the airbags. After that i just pushed it in the weather striping until i reached the fuse box.

If someone finds out how to remove the pillar trim as a whole, please comment here anyways for easier installments :)

On 02/02/2025 at 17:16, BaXm_Superb said:

The USB-C doesn't have enough power to start my cam. Need at least 5V 2A, unfortunately.

 

Would you be so kind and tell which dashcam make and model it is that does not work from the USB-C

I am considering purchasing a Viofo A229 Plus and it seems to have specs for 5V 2A and I am wondering whether I should purchase something else instead.

If any of you have some modern dashcam that does work I would like to hear about which ones do work.

  • Author

I use the VIOFO 229 Pro. 
but most of modern dashcam come with this specs. But the Hardware Kit isn’t hard to install and would recommend it. 

  • 1 month later...
On 05/02/2025 at 21:06, BaXm_Superb said:

I use the VIOFO 229 Pro. 
but most of modern dashcam come with this specs. But the Hardware Kit isn’t hard to install and would recommend it. 

You say the hardwire kit isn’t hard to install.

I finally managed to drop the glove box to expose the fuse box today, had to apply so much force I thought the glove box was going to rip away from its mountings!

Anyway, I was going to install the hardwire kit but couldn’t find any suitable earth point in or near the fuse box. Found the necessary fuses to piggy back on for the battery and acc connections but was stumped for the earth point. Anyone done this already and would care to share we’re on earth (sorry for the pun) they found one?

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I drive the LHD version, so I hadn’t to remove the glove box.

I’ll send some pics later of the ground I used.

Which fuses did you tap?

3 hours ago, Rifleman said:

You say the hardwire kit isn’t hard to install.

I finally managed to drop the glove box to expose the fuse box today, had to apply so much force I thought the glove box was going to rip away from its mountings!

Anyway, I was going to install the hardwire kit but couldn’t find any suitable earth point in or near the fuse box. Found the necessary fuses to piggy back on for the battery and acc connections but was stumped for the earth point. Anyone done this already and would care to share we’re on earth (sorry for the pun) they found one?

Usually the dashboard mounting bolts (underneath the end cover) are suitable. I've also never fitted one in a RHD VAG car that doesn't have a useable bolt holding the dash together behind the glovebox.

7 minutes ago, Occy245 said:

Usually the dashboard mounting bolts (underneath the end cover) are suitable. I've also never fitted one in a RHD VAG car that doesn't have a useable bolt holding the dash together behind the glovebox.

Unlike my previous mk3 Superb the mk4 doesn’t have a removable panel on the end of the dashboard on the passenger side. The glove box was really easy to remove on the mk3 too and there were a number of bolts to choose from for the ground.

On the mk4 once the glove box is dropped there are no exposed metal parts. There is a single bolt just visible through a narrow gap but it sits about 5 or 6 inches behind the fusebox on the bulkhead and it’s impossible to get to it to fasten the connector to.

I think I’ll either stick with using the usb socket on the mirror housing for power and forget about parking mode or get a professional installer to sort it out for me…

Very different then - I helped a neighbour do the same on an Mk4 Octavia last week. His issue wasn’t the voltage, but rather that the mirror connection was only live with the ignition on.

Have you tried finding/looking in the workshop manual? I remember using it to find a grounding point when I did a dashcam in my first car years ago.

2 hours ago, BaXm_Superb said:

I drive the LHD version, so I hadn’t to remove the glove box.

I’ll send some pics later of the ground I used.

Which fuses did you tap?

I was going to use

48 - usb charging rear view mirror for acc

52 - 12v sockets for batt

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