Hi all,

My Kamiq will tickover at 1400 rpm for one minute when cold. Now, all my recent cars have idled faster for a while when cold, but typically at 1000rpm or so.

At 1400 it is quite possible get up to 30mph in 4th without touching the throttle and when negotiating parked cars and pedestrians or reversing out of a supermarket

car park I need to slip the clutch and brake against the engine. The local dealer says this is quite normal and it's just to help the car warm up. My local independent

mechanic and my friends reckon it's not right so I'd welcome any input from this forum.

Thanks

.

Age of car,

and how many miles done and how long have you had it and has it always done it?

Plenty fast idle threads.

1.0 or 1.5 TSI ACT,s.

There is a GPF, some have the high idle with cars during Covid years and short trips.

1,100 RPM for 40 seconds to a minute then dropping would be normal.

1,400 rpm certainly can cause issues.

If the 1,400 rpm is just for 1 minute can you not just wait a minute before driving off?

Edited 18 March, 20251 yr by Ootohere

Hi,

It's a 72 plate, 15000 miles and yes, it's always done it.

Nothing to do with the GPF then.

Other than heating up quickly. 1,400 rpm is a bit too high really.

It is a Skoda Tech you should have asked about it right at the start of having the car.

Edited 18 March, 20251 yr by Ootohere

Maybe, the car was brought to the front of the showroom so was warm when I first got it- in any event I didn't notice.

I could let it warm when first started but best practice is to set off as soon as the engine is fired up.

I tried Skoda Technical but they 'are not customer facing' and sent a n email to the DVSA who state that if a problem is evident

before a car is driven it is not something that they can deal with.

What did the Master Tech at the Dealership say?

'They all do that'. or 'Never heard of that before'.

Did they not communicate with the Imaginary SKODA / VW Technical department?

Who would say they were INVESTIGATING.

DVSA are not interested in many SAFETY CRITICAL things like Fuel Rail leaks and Power Cuts / Engines cutting out.

Get a named Communications Manager or Resolution Manager or Technical Adviser if dealing with SKODA / VW UK. Not just some call handler or another.

Edited 18 March, 20251 yr by Ootohere

Yes, pretty much at the dealers (also Honest John.) I'll have another go with Skoda Technical but they seem to be based in South Africa and have limited English- not ideal when discussing technical matters.

I wonder if this is something that can be tweaked with the ECU, the dealership didn't seem to know.

Ah, just read your TTEC post, I'll try to get a contact number for them. Many Thanks.

No.

They are useless.

They are anyplace a call handler is with a Laptop.

SKODA / VW GROUP TECHNICAL is not based in South Africa.

Who you get that will have no more Tech knowledge that using the Net might be.

Use your Warranty, The Dealership is your agent, have them talk to SKODA CZ, or VW UK.

Edited 18 March, 20251 yr by Ootohere

Will do, thanks again for your advice.

Maybe you should try connecting a scanner and see if there are any errors in the car? And in which blocks, otherwise you can guess for quite a long time...

Aaah, if I had a scanner. The dealer says no faults showing and won't accept evidence from external mechanics. While I was at the dealers I had him start another Kamiq from cold and that revved at 1400 too so I guess they all do it; my point is that it's too high- I have dash footage of me driving from home, taking two turns and a mini roundabout and up to 20mph, all without touching the throttle (and it'll do 30 with no obstacles) that can't be right.

Thanks for the thought though.

I have a 1.5 TSI DSG and it starts and idles normally, slightly higher on start up but not 1400rpm, more around 1000rpm

The same as my previous cars then, interesting to know, thanks. If there's any more owners could let me know tickover speeds from cold it may help when I go back to the dealer.

Just started mine up after a frosty night. Initial idle is 1400, settles down to c800 after 30 seconds or so. I would guess this is designed in and nothing to worry about.

Hi, it's good to know other Kamiqs rev as high. Mine does it for a minute however which is a lot of fuel to waste

waiting for it to warm up. The car does, after all, switch itself off at the lights to save petrol. You've given me pause for thought though, cheers.

Not just Skoda, nearly all modern cars do this on startup.

Yes, all my recent cars have, but not to 1400rpm. At the these revs, pulling out of a tight space requires a great deal of clutch slipping and brake use, all of which is unecessary at say 1000 rpm.

Something isn't right then as mine settles down after seconds and no issue pulling away.

Something definitely isn't right sussamb but, as Ootohere up-post commented, the dealership are not very helpful. In fact, the words 'wall' and 'brick' spring to mind so the more evidence I can gather from the good people on this forum the more likely they are to take note ( I hope! ).

If you look around other VAG related forums for other brands then you'll see this is quite common. (not to say it's "right" but it is possible in this case the dealer is right and "they all do that" is the right answer.) the 1.5 engine with ACT is certainly a very different beast from my last 2.0 without ACT. We also have a Mk 8 golf R and it exhibits this odd revving the engine when first started, sometimes more than once if manoeuvring at low speed.

There are various theories advanced as to why it happens, all the way from coping with the aircon kicking in to making sure the Petrol Particulate Filter does not get contaminated.

I am struggling to understand why the extra 400-600 rpm is making things difficult. If the car is a manual then dip the clutch fully, better than slipping it while manoeuvring. If it's DSG then use the footbrake to control the movement.

I reverse my car out of the garage and hardly ever have to touch the throttle to complete the manoeuvre. Last car, and the one before (that's about 12 years worth) were exactly the same. Before then, yes, you had to balance the throttle or you stalled the engine.

It's not much of a struggle really: next time you have to reverse out of a tight parking space at the supermarket hold your revs at 1400 and see if you can do it 𝘸𝘪𝘵𝘩𝘰𝘶𝘵 slipping the clutch.

My feeling is, given that people have Kamiqs that only idle at 1000 when cold ( about the same as my previous vehicles), that this could be sorted using the ECU.

@Nosheds 'When cold' could be starting when an Ambient temperature is below freezing, so lets say Minus 5 degrees Celsius or starting when it is a 25 Degree Celsius ambient in Summer.

If the high RPM is their to heat the Catalytic Converter or GPF then the 30 degree temperature difference in ambient temp might make no difference.

The 'Anti stall' with a manual or some manual cars and how the Engine Management is might well be an issue and one that needs addressed by Skoda / VW Group.

?

Is it really only 1 MINUTE at the high idle, and even if you think it is best to start and drive off, are you really doing that before 1 minute has passed?

Edited 24 March, 20251 yr by Ootohere

For the Golf it is always less than one minute when the revs are increased. It only seems to do it from a fully cold start, so an hours shopping followed by an engine start and the revs settle to "idle" quickly.

For the Kamiq, it's DSG so I have not really found it a problem as the reversing movement is controlled on the brake. I find I never need to touch the throttle pedal while doing this.

The last manual Audi I had did this higher revs from a cold start thing, I would simply engage the clutch to get the car moving and then fully depress it to disengage so that I could manoeuvre safely. Often if I was just backing onto my driveway I'd knock it out of gear once it was rolling.

Hi Ootohere, by cold it could be when it's frosty.. a minute at 1400, or as Aldfort says maybe 20 seconds when the engine has cooled after a hour's shopping. So it is definitely related to engine temperature rather than cat or dpf. Neither is it anti-stall related: that works as advertised.

And yes, I do like to pull away almost as soon as the engine starts (perhaps if it's particularly

wintry I'll give 20 seconds or so) especially from shop car parks-every second extra spent there risks the clot next door banging his door into mine, a regular occurrence unfortunately.