Hi,

Yet another post about busted door locks.

I have acquired a 2007 roomster 5J with this issue present, I have never seen this rear o/s (right hand side) door been able to open.

I have read about it all and tried it on the poor door latch.

I have tried without luck:

• Trickle charging the battery to get as high as possible voltage to the door lock motor.

• Together with this I have tried tamping and trying to lock/unlock from the buttons next to the gear liver. No motor sound.

• Applying 12V directly to the latch motor to pin1 (blue/yellow wire) and pin2 (purple/yellow wire) forward and reverse. No motor sound.

• Tried to manually rock the red rocker on the latch, it feels like spring loaded towards unlock position. This is different from the new latch that I purchased that holds its position for either locked or unlocked. At this point realised that my luck has ran out.

• Removed the glass and with all my force tried to push the door out hoping that the latch will break.

• Removed the four bolts from the hinges. The door positioner prevents me from taking the hinged side out of the frame.

• I have attempted to cut the door in half, not sure what I was going to achieve with this. Broke my reciprocating tool as the door has some reinforced sections. I understood why the fire brigade has that hydraulic powered scissors tool...

I have ran out of ideas other than scrapping it.

Please help!

1 hour ago, PizzaSoft said:

Applying 12V directly to the latch motor to pin1 (blue/yellow wire) and pin2 (purple/yellow wire) forward and reverse. No motor sound.

If you meant exactly 12V or thereabouts, maybe worth trying 15 or 16?

4 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

If you meant exactly 12V or thereabouts, maybe worth trying 15 or 16?

12.3V from a Li-Ion battery pack.

At some point it stopped taking current, I am sure the motor is dead.

No harm in trying higher voltage, especially if you disconnect those wires from anything but the lock motor. Nothing to lose.

5 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

No harm in trying higher voltage, especially if you disconnect those wires from anything but the lock motor. Nothing to lose.

I will get my bench supply to the car and try, hopefully tomorrow if it is dry.

Forgot to mention that from my first attempt I have cut the wires to the motor so I do not damage the controller.

Probably worth clouting the door near lock whilst trying, for added chances of something moving.

🤞

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Probably worth clouting the door near lock whilst trying, for added chances of something moving.

🤞

Sorry for me being stupid but please elaborate on "clouthing". I am all ears for ideas.

Clout = hit enthusiastically.

1 minute ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Clout = hit enthusiastically.

Oh, right, got it.

use an open handed strike with the heel of your palm. gets a nice thump.

@Breezy_Pete te, am i right in thinking the roomster lock modules are the same as the mk1 Octy etc?

if Pete says i am, @PizzaSoft , ill post a link to my instructions on how to gently break into the lock mechanism and release the deadbolt

Can I have the link anyway, I may improvise.

@mac11irl I'd imagine they're similar, but probably not identical.

Developments from today.

No current drawn, I have upped the voltage to 62V from my bench power supply.

While I was entering and exiting to the rear seats to work on it the opposite (LHS) door lock failed, motor noise present on both locking and unlocking. Tried all for the past 1 hour, to no avail.

I am tired and irritated by this development.

I am considering scrapping this vehicle, no MOT station will pass this car with two doors not opening...

Thank you all for trying to help. I am done with it.

After receiving a mental guidance from my youngest and most enthusiastic helper (only 10 years old) I have reached out for the angle grinder and managed open up a flap to brake the door locks in a way that they released the latches.

Now I am looking for couple of fully equipped doors, no colour preferences.

Ah jaysus, i dont think you meeded to get that violent with either lock.

could you post a pic of what that lock looked like? im interested to see if what i was guiding you towards wouldve worked.

hopefully help the next guy not need to take the heavy artillery to their doors

18 minutes ago, mac11irl said:

Ah jaysus, i dont think you meeded to get that violent with either lock.

could you post a pic of what that lock looked like? im interested to see if what i was guiding you towards wouldve worked.

hopefully help the next guy not need to take the heavy artillery to their doors

That ^^^

I managed to remove one of my rear door locks from inside the door after removing the door card and inner panel. It took a hammer and chisel but less damaging than that. That's not solved anything.

5 minutes ago, Lee01 said:

That ^^^

I managed to remove one of my rear door locks from inside the door after removing the door card and inner panel. It took a hammer and chisel but less damaging than that. That's not solved anything.

if its the same (ish) lock mech as a mk1 octy (and i dont see it bein that different) you can do it with a stanley knife and 2 small allen keys. no violence or hammering required at all...

12 minutes ago, mac11irl said:

if its the same (ish) lock mech as a mk1 octy (and i dont see it bein that different) you can do it with a stanley knife and 2 small allen keys. no violence or hammering required at all...

I didn't know that back then 😂

Door was deadlocked and wouldn't open at all so if you mean the Allen bolts that go into the lock to hold it in place that wasn't possible. The chisel disengaged the lock, door open and lock replaced.

I'll know in future to ask you 😆

47 minutes ago, mac11irl said:

could you post a pic of what that lock looked like? im interested to see if what i was guiding you towards wouldve worked.

hopefully help the next guy not need to take the heavy artillery to their doors

Of course, here they are.

PNs:

RHS - 5J7839016A

LHS - 5J7839015A

The red arrows showed what has opened the door, in the completely busted one there was a metal rocker that did the job. on the one that looks almost intact I needed to only dislodge that plastic with not much to be able to pull the handle and open the door.

mmm.... am i right in thinking that outer plastic shell looks hard, but actually isnt very?

1 hour ago, Lee01 said:

I didn't know that back then 😂

Door was deadlocked and wouldn't open at all so if you mean the Allen bolts that go into the lock to hold it in place that wasn't possible. The chisel disengaged the lock, door open and lock replaced.

I'll know in future to ask you 😆

Nope, if you can get the door card off the inside, and expose the lock mechanism, you can cut open the plastic shell with a sharp stanley blade. then, use 2 allen keys to manually wind back the gears that conteol the deadbolt. 1 to wind it and the other to hold the tension on the spring. once its wound back, just pull the door release arm / cable.

then take out the 2 retaining bolts and put in your new mechanism.

test test test test test with a screwdriver before you ever think about closing the door.

5 minutes ago, mac11irl said:

Nope, if you can get the door card off the inside, and expose the lock mechanism, you can cut open the plastic shell with a sharp stanley blade. then, use 2 allen keys to manually wind back the gears that conteol the deadbolt. 1 to wind it and the other to hold the tension on the spring. once its wound back, just pull the door release arm / cable.

then take out the 2 retaining bolts and put in your new mechanism.

test test test test test with a screwdriver before you ever think about closing the door.

I bet my way was fasterer and more funerer achieving the same end result 😂