Hi, all.

Since changing my battery a few days ago, i have two fault codes that are not disappearing:

• Electronic child lock - not a big deal as it seems to be working

• Front assist unavailable - ACC is not working at all.

I've run diagnostics using Car Scanner Pro, and the bit that seems relevant is:

00791 [0x000317]
C110300: Adaptive cruise control sensor, misadjusted
FAULT_MISALIGNMENT_VERTICAL
U112200: Databus implausible message
FAULT_CIM_CHK_LWI_01FAULT_CIM_CHK2_LWI_01
Status bits: 1
Priority: 4
Frequency: 1
Unlearning index: 59
Odometer: 18907 km
Date, time: 2025.09.13 13:36:41
Paramteric values:  02 8D 56 02 85 7B 10 11 0A AD 10 12 08 A5 10 2E 02
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

Can anyone help me with interpreting this? Before changing battery, i never had a single error message. Having said that, the timestamp here is one day after i installed the new battery, so maybe it's unrelated to the battery - a coincidence, perhaps.

Edited 16 September, 202516 Sep by Aciduzzo

Just to add, i have tried to locate the sensor on my Superb mk3 to check if it's obstructed in any way, but i am unable to find it. The car has a front facing camera that is hidden in the rear-view mirror enclosure. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.

Does your Mk3 Superb have a square opening in the centre of the lower part of the front grille? - If so, that is the Front Assist Radar sensor.

Check that it hasn't been damaged in a parking shunt - it shouldn't be loose or misaligned.

Is it behind the bit ive circled in red?

I almost certain there was no parking shunt or similar as it had been in the drive since changing the battery the day before.

Different to the Octavia - unless there is a square opening I can't see in the section below the reg. plate - but that is the most likely position for it.

The marked position is correct. The sensor is mounted on a support plate with fine adjustment screws for aligning the sensor. The plate is then screwed onto the grill. However, the support plate is prone to breaking, which is when this error occurs.

The Octavia 3 Facelift have the Same Position

Edited 17 September, 202517 Sep by Cairus

@Cairus in that case, to access the sensor, it looks like i would have to remove the plastic area highlighted - am i correct ?

Adjusting the sensor required specialised equipment.

Have you cleared the codes and seen if they come back as low/high voltages can cause odd behaviour with sensors in my experience.

22 minutes ago, Monkhai said:

Adjusting the sensor required specialised equipment.

Have you cleared the codes and seen if they come back as low/high voltages can cause odd behaviour with sensors in my experience.

no, I haven't cleared the error codes yet - i will try that tomorrow.

You make a good point about the voltages. I had to change the battery as the voltage on the old battery dropped to 2.5 as i was away for five weeks. I do suspect the fact these errors happened after the battery change is not just a coincidence.

1 hour ago, Aciduzzo said:

Ist es hinter dem Teil, den ich rot eingekreist habe?

Ich bin mir ziemlich sicher, dass es keinen Parkunfall oder ähnliches gab, da es seit dem Batteriewechsel am Vortag in der Einfahrt lag.

So, personally, I've never had a calibration error due to undervoltage, but I also assumed that it was deleted.

4 hours ago, Cairus said:

So, personally, I've never had a calibration error due to undervoltage, but I also assumed that it was deleted.

the calibration error did not happen when the voltage was low. it happened one day after fitting the new battery, when the voltage was high.

as I said, look at the mechanic

You had a new battery fitted so presumably it has a good state of charge (and health) and it was coded in correctly (you can check this(?)).

Has the car been driven any distance to see if it sorts itself out, as the computer systems are very complex and intertwined (with program errors and omissions) and a brain-fart by one of them at one end can affect others unrelated.

Have you cleared the errors yet to see if they return.

I would expect a mechanic to possibly not check the battery before installing it, over tighten the battery terminal post clamps, make a 'coding' (data input) error (or not bothered with 'coding') but unless he is really clumsy not damaging the front sensor or child lock whilst doing the battery, so I would, as always, more suspect the VW computer programs causing the error - but of course there might be these two problems in reality and just a coincidence they both appear a day after a new battery is installed.

I don't have a high opinion of many mechanics but from experience I would expect possible failings with the VW programmings to cause unexpected and unnecessary warnings and restrictions with the amber triangle of doom showing and I'd start there and rule that out first.

Good luck.

@nta16

I have cleared the error codes and the same two orange warnings return. Interestingly, there is no sign of child electronic lock fault in the DTC logs. The error codes I'm getting now are:

00791 [0x000317]
C110300: Adaptive cruise control sensor, misadjusted
FAULT_MISALIGNMENT_VERTICAL
U112200: Databus implausible message
FAULT_CIM_CHK_LWI_01FAULT_CIM_CHK2_LWI_01
Status bits: 1
Priority: 4
Frequency: 1
Unlearning index: 59
Odometer: 18947 km
Date, time: 2025.09.18 13:02:31
Paramteric values: 02 8D 5C 02 85 78 10 11 00 00 10 12 00 00 10 2E 06
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

00012 [0x00000C]
B110311: Digital radio antenna 1, Short circuit to ground
Aerial for digital radio - short circuit to ground
Status bits: 1
Priority: 6
Frequency: 1
Unlearning index: 59
Odometer: 18947 km
Date, time: 2025.09.18 13:02:59
Paramteric values:  02 86 7B 18 2E 02 02 6E FF FF FF FF FF FF
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

I installed the new battery myself and adapted it correctly (i think). It had a good charge as i put it on trickle charging with my CTEK before installing it.

Overtightening the clamps is possible (tho unlikely) as i have no idea how tight they should be.

Changing the battery was simple, and i can't see how i could have damaged anything.

The car has been on several short drives around town, but not a proper long drive.

As mentioned, the child locks appear to work despite the warning, but the ACC doesn't work at all.

Edited 18 September, 202518 Sep by Aciduzzo

look at the live data.

14 minutes ago, Cairus said:

look at the live data.

what do you mean?

If the battery is in a good state of charge, which it should be if you charged it before installing (something I recommend) and you have got the data entry correct for the new battery and you haven't driven the car yet then you could try - starting the engine, turning on the headlights with the air-con on and blower on and then turning the steering wheel fully in both direction and going for a reasonable length drive. That might settle the little darlings that are the computer(s) and a relatively cheap and easy thing to try.

You might first want to check (double-check) what you have inputted for the battery, did you do a like for like change, same battery type (EFB, AGM (known as "fleece" to our dear friends VW), same Ah or near enough, and you changed the battery "serial" number (often from factory ten ones (1111111111) to 1111111112.

I notice in your photo a line of scratches near the l/h sensor (as we look at it), have they ben there a while.

The child locks used to be simple mechanical thing but now we have the sophistication of electronic control so as well as mechanical issue you add electric, electronic and programming but it could still be something very simple other diagnosis tools can be used to check including human senses or if you want to stick with scan tool perhaps a bidirectional test of activation and deactivation if possible.

Odd that the car has warnings about the child lock but not the scan tool, "implausible message" is always a great one sometimes meaning not much in actual relation to the item, brain farts and actual system faults can go in odd directions and locations and amazing how an unrelated faulty sensor can mess other system(s), oh the joy of progress.

Live data is what you can get on a scan tool if you have the system(s) running, say with driving the car buit you don't want to be distracted as a driver (as you can be with the TwatNav, phone and other infotainment stuff. If you want to see real time live data then you need to be passenger.

HTH.

@nta16 I'm away ATM so i cant try the headlights and blower things till i get back next week. I did do the steering-wheel thing, however - that got rid of all the other errors.

I did upgrade to an AGM battery, but i think i adapted it correctly. For the serial # i used the installation date - eight digits instead of ten, but i dont think that matters.

The scratches you see have been there a good while, so that's unrelated to this issue.

The child lock thing i still dont get - i will need to do some testing, i think.

Re the ACC misalignment, I read that OBDeleven Pro can be used to recallibrate the sensor - any experience with that tool?

"Use it when the error code "C110300 - Adaptive Cruise Control sensor misadjusted" appears. As long as the radar is positioned correctly, this application can fix calibration issues without the need for special stands or other tools." https://obdeleven.com/customizations/skoda/adaptive-cruise-control-calibration

52 minutes ago, Aciduzzo said:

@nta16 I'm away ATM so i cant try the headlights and blower things till i get back next week. I did do the steering-wheel thing, however - that got rid of all the other errors.

In that case that is probably as good as it will get from trying that free, easy, quick, clean-hands trick and adding air-con and blower to steering load was just to strongly convince the very dumb computers that the battery state of charge was fine.

57 minutes ago, Aciduzzo said:

For the serial # i used the installation date - eight digits instead of ten, but i dont think that matters.

I have no idea if all 10 fields(?) need to be populated but I did as it was easy just to change the tenth 1 to a 2. Perhaps your Car Scanner Pro can show you information to confirm the charging details have gone to a new replacement battery fitted.

For the front assist unavailable have you tried turning it off via the infotainment menu, drive a short distance and then turn ignition off for a short time and then turn ignition back on and turn front assist back on via the infotainment menu and short drive back. Another form of 'turning it off and on again' and quick, easy, next to no-cost, clean-hands thing to try. Might save introducing another computer and computer programming to sort things (Car Scanner Pro, OBDEleven or others).

Other than another member 'coding' my battery with OBDEleven I have never seen them so sorry I have no idea about adjustment or reset with it. I can well imagine the VW computer getting upset from a low or high voltage or having a brain-fart so just needing a programming reset without physical adjustment. Perhaps just disconnecting it (at the wire connector) for a while and reconnecting in a 'switching it off and on again' sort of way might sort it - but I don't know that for sure (and no doubt someone will say if you do that there will be consequences on the car and/or half the streetlights in Germany will go out).

Perhaps the actual source of the ACC fault is elsewhere and just showing there but you have only had electronic child lock and digital radio antenna show on your Car Scanner Pro, with two computer systems, the car and the scanner, either or both could have errors presented. The scanner at least needs its program for the car to be fully up to date before use on the car and scanner batteries in reasonable state of charge.

My wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 (without ACC or cc , thank gawd) has at least twice had the front "assist" unavailable for very brief periods when my wife was of driving and I wasn't in the car, I guess the first something like a leave causing obstruction and second time, in town, my wife saw a paper bag blowing on the road, might have been coincidence or the cause.

You can trigger the dynamic ACC calibration drive with any good diagnostic tool. However, this only works if the sensor is adjusted within a certain tolerance. Otherwise, you'll have to do the static one. But before doing that, check the mechanics.

Just a quick update: i got back from my trip, and the ACC error and warning triangle have disappeared! Whilst i was away, my wife had been driving the car short distances, but she didn't do anything to the car so this is a mystery! The electroinic child lock error is still there, however - grrr.

46 minutes ago, Aciduzzo said:

Just a quick update: i got back from my trip, and the ACC error and warning triangle have disappeared! Whilst i was away, my wife had been driving the car short distances, but she didn't do anything to the car so this is a mystery!

Not really, they can often reset after being driven x-distance or times.

48 minutes ago, Aciduzzo said:

The electroinic child lock error is still there, however - grrr.

As put that might be an actual error or physical mechanical, electronic, electric thing - or a computer brain-fart - unless you have access to another appropriate scan tool use to confirm then other diagnostic tools like your eyes, touch, multimeter could confirm if the electronic lock does have a fault or not. Do the buttons both light up and both go out when operated. You could turning the electric child lock buttons off and drive like that for a reasonable distance/time and then try turning it back on see if that clears things.

1 minute ago, nta16 said:

Not really, they can often reset after being driven x-distance or times.

As put that might be an actual error or physical mechanical, electronic, electric thing - or a computer brain-fart - unless you have access to another appropriate scan tool use to confirm then other diagnostic tools like your eyes, touch, multimeter could confirm if the electronic lock does have a fault or not. Do the buttons both light up and both go out when operated. You could turning the electric child lock buttons off and drive like that for a reasonable distance/time and then try turning it back on see if that clears things.

I actually noticed today that the buttons don't light up, and i was planning on checking whether they should (as i can't remember if they light up or not). But they both definitely work when i press them.

When all else fails read the car's 'Owner's Manual'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Perhaps the button(s) not lighting up is the error.

Why did you change the battery in the first place was it because it had got very low in state of charge and/or health?

55 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Why did you change the battery in the first place was it because it had got very low in state of charge and/or health?

I didn't drive the car for almost five weeks in August and left the dashcam plugged in to the 12V socket. When i got back, the old EFB battery was at 2.5V ! It was anyway on its last legs - 6.5 yrs old and the start-stop had never worked properly. So, i decided to upgrade to an AGM battery. Apart from all the errors, start stop at least works now.

Edited 4 October, 20254 Oct by Aciduzzo