I'm trying to remove/diagnose a non-cranking issue with my ikkle fabby.

I can remove the battery tray and whatnot but am struggling to remove the top bolt. I've removed the gnd and 12v starter cables. The gear linkage attached to the gearbox are in the way stopping me getting a socket down there, and spanners feel like I'm rounding off the bolt

17mm seem to small and yet 18mm want to round off

@wodgey Clickable PDF to download as well.
Electrical system.pdf

Edited 9 November, 20259 Nov by Lee01

18mm is correct, I believe, for the long starter motor bolt heads. The one that has the M8 stud coming out of it will need a ring spanner or deep socket.

You've checked that the non-crank isn't the usual broken, or nearly broken solenoid wire?

Edited 9 November, 20259 Nov by Breezy_Pete

1 minute ago, Breezy_Pete said:

You've checked that the non-crank isn't the usual broken, or nearly broken solenoid wire?

Kinda, yeah. the wire is still in-situ and doesn't quite feel broken inside the insulation (but I am aware it could be broken still). I am unsure where the other end goes to, so haven't checked continuity

I removed the connector (accidentally breaking the locking red clip, in the process), dribbled in some isopropyl alcohol and repeatedly re-seated the connector multiple times. I now hear the delightful click from the solenoid but with no cranking (I have not ruled out low battery from being drained by interior lights and window motors, but I don;t hear the starter trying to turn/engage the flywheel)

I am working on the assumption that with my luck, it will be the more costly/difficult problem to fix, and wanted to know how other people deal with that top bolt without rounding it.

16 minutes ago, Lee01 said:

@wodgey

I appreciate the diagram for the locations

My question was "how remove without rounding/how get a socket on the bolt in question?" rather than "where/which bolts"

Even if you can loosen both of the 18mm-head bolts, you'll need to remove the gearbox linkage top bit to get the top bolt out, I think. So you may as well remove that first to improve access.

Just now, Breezy_Pete said:

Even if you can loosen both of the 18mm-head bolts, you'll need to remove the gearbox linkage top bit to get the top bolt out, I think. So you may as well remove that first to improve access.

AH-ha. Yes, thank you, this is exactly the annoyance that is getting in the way. I've seen the link on this site with downloads for workshop manuals. I need to figure out how to remove linkage assembly which I presume means I need to figure out what gearbox variant

I've downloaded the 4 pdf's for gearbox variants 001 (i know this is auto), 002, 02R and 0A8 and need to compare them in the daylight, against what I have under the bonnet

Gearbox code might be on the sticker under the boot carpet next to the spare wheel well. Should also be stamped on the gearbox somewhere.

I think a manual 1.4/16v will have an 02T family box.

From memory it's a 13mm nut that holds the change lever down on its splined post. (May be bigger, memory not really trustworthy).

It only fits in one orientation too, again from memory, so need need to mark alignment.

19 minutes ago, Lee01 said:

Gearbox code might be on the sticker under the boot carpet next to the spare wheel well. Should also be stamped on the gearbox somewhere.

Nice one! appreciated

7 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I think a manual 1.4/16v will have an 02T family box.

From memory it's a 13mm nut that holds the change lever down on its splined post. (May be bigger, memory not really trustworthy).

It only fits in one orientation too, again from memory, so need need to mark alignment.

Thank you.

yes, 13 sounds right, compared to my memory from earlier today where I stared at it for several moments.

Pondering if it would be so simple, as to just undo the spindle bolt and pry off the interfering/offending selector lever.

I will try that tomorrow. I didn't try today because I wasn;t sure if I needed to do anything extra, with the cablemounting assembly, further back on the gearbox, closer to the firewall.

Made progress and confirmed diagnosis. dead starter.

grabbed a couple each male&female spade connectors and tested continuity between Bat+ and starter+, Bat+ and solennoid cables(when key turned) & Bat- to gnd strap starter side. All tested good. bridging 12v to the solenoid pin did nothing. NO life whatsoever, only the fettid smell of death. Oh, the resistance from solenoid pin to ground was all over the place (I'm guiessing there's a capacitor or two in there and wierd resisnce reading isn;t actually strange behaviour, I am just mentioning in case it is somehow relevant) New starter motor is currently 4 stops away, in the back of a prime waggon.

I was helping clear out a flat last night and saw on my mates desk, my windscreen wiper arm puller, and took it back as he no longer using it. Came in so handy today, for removing the gear cable assembly. top long bolt removed. I didn;t have my ikkle 2" 1/2" sockeet extender so couldn;t get past the annoying bracket underneath, but that shouldn't cause any struggle once I have it. I saw anpther annoying connector or two down on that side of the gearbox that I hope

All things going well, she should ride again tomorrow.

my thanks to you both

this was a lot easier job when doing on my long-dead vauxhall vivaro 2L. If memory serves, it was easier to get to and an allen key ( although swings and roundabouts, the engine in that died due to nissans timing chain)