I have a 2017 1.0 ltr tsi Fabia. I've bought a new Exide EFB battery to replace the existing Exide EFB battery. Identical specs. Do I need to register the new one as I don't have the OBD gadget to do this.

Thanks.

Yes, IMO, definitely.

If you publish your general area, someone might have VCDS and do it for you. A independen garage might do it for ~ £30? but still worth it, again, IMO.

Lots of ongoing debates/arguments on this, yes it would be best practice to "code" it (data entry really) the very few bits that actually need changing, lots of threads and posts on this forum alone with the details.

Other scan tools can be used but you could have a look for a Briskoda member in your area with VCDS (or other) that might be able to do it for you for a beer token (hyperlink at bottom of post).

If you need to change the battery as you can no longer use an appropriate battery charger maintainer to recharge the old existing battery enough then before disconnecting it to change the new battery read the 'Owner's Manual' for your car and follow the instructions for disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and what might be needed to be reset after doing so, generally if you don't leave electric items on and window(s) or sunroof open then it's just the time of day clock.

If you fit the new battery it can be 'coded' a bit later without the world ending, some others never bother but that's the debate and they may be lucky enough to own earlier models years.

HTH. Good luck.

VCDS owners - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

VWŠkoda site for pdf downloads of the 'Owner's Manual' if you want it or don't have the paper printed version. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

15 hours ago, keithclinton said:

I've bought a new Exide EFB battery

Anywhere near N. Dorset?

15 hours ago, keithclinton said:

I don't have the OBD gadget to do this.

I do.

Thanks. AG Falco

Location has Brecon.

But as always great that you make the offer.

If it was Northampton I would offer even without owning the mighty VCDS machine.

Keith, before fitting the new battery I always fully charge it to 100% before fitting with an appropriate battery charger (maintainer) that way I know the battery was at 100% when fitted. As the battery is new it shouldn't take long to do this. Yes the PITA VW computer system will have it down to 80% soon with use but I also do (very) occasional preventive recharges using an appropriate battery charger as car batteries are expensive and VW computers don't like slightly low 12v batteries.

If you want or need to fit the new battery then do so don't wait for 'coding' the world won't end despite how some feel it might.

Read the car's 'Owner's Manual' for disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and check what might need resetting after disconnection, basically if you have all electrics turned off, electric windows and sunroof fully closed before disconnection then it's just the time of day clock that needs resetting.

Once the new battery is fitted start the engine, turn on the headlights and air-con and turn the steering wheel full lock either way this should confirm with the dumb car computers that the battery is in a good state. Turn them off and go for a drive to settle other dumb computer systems on the car.

If you fit the new battery before 'coding' is sorted and you have followed belt, braces and bit of chewing-gum suggestions above and the battery, car, your house or neighbours' house blows up please rush back to let everyone know the dangers. 😁

Thanks all for your advice

I changed mine out a few years back as started to get a yellow warning on dash. It was to do with the start stop i later found out.
VW stealers quoted me maybe up to £400 to replace.
A local 3rd party place quoted me £150. I asked if they do the coding for that and they said they didn't bother on these cars, only the higher end ones.
So i picked up a battery myself for £100 delivered and fitted it myself.
Never bothered with updating the battery details with the ECU.
Not had a single issue since (with the battery anyway...)
One thing to note with these Fabias with the start stop and possible other makes.
I found most of the time it's only actually charging the battery when on over run.
So by that i mean for example, your driving along whatever speed, you lift of accelerator pedal and now the battery charging kicks in. Foot back on the accelerator, charging stops.
I've changed my driving style now to incorporate more of these cycles.
I'm sure the battery might well get charged outside of doing this depending on charge state and conditions, also the BMS doing whatever charge cycles it does.
I thought my alternator was shot when i first discovered this, but monitoring the voltage on the cigarette lighter socket whilst driving revealed all.
Occasional manual charging as others have suggested is good to do as well, usually end up doing that in the winter months when it takes a good kicking with sub zero cold starts and shorter journeys.

Edited 29 November, 202529 Nov by Gonzini

There is, IMO, frankly, quite a lot of crap spoken about stop/start draining the battery, a 3 sec crank at 300A will deplete a battery by ~ 0.25AH, far better IMO to switch off the dipped beams, automatically, if on, when the engine is stopped by the Stop/Start, just use the Stop/Start like I do, as I see fit, and don't give it a second thought. The charging to 85% SOC with variable voltages is universal now.

20% discount code on Tanya Batteries eBay store (and a few other places) until 2nd December, if anyone else is needing a battery. They don't appear to have put their eBay prices up to skim the discount like a lot of sellers do.

I agree there's a lot of misunderstanding about the stop/start and generally battery use and drain. This benefits the motor trade. The stop/start won't kick in if it thinks the battery is too low for it anyway, which should be a notification or warning to the driver/owner that the battery charge might be low and need for charging by some method. Often though this is ignored repeatedly and continuously because the engine starts so the battery can't be that bad. Hence the continuing number one reason for breakdown call-outs continues as it has for x-many years (decades?) and in reality very, very rarely is it truly the fault of the battery. And we are getting into peak season for such stuff.

I always turn off the start stop anyway, its really annoying. Can't see it really doing the engine any good over the long term.
Depending on the situation mine will turn off and immediately start again, like it didn't leave enough time before activating.
Sometimes i forget to turn it off and that's really annoying as well...
Obviously if end up being parked up on the motorway or whatever in hardly moving traffic that makes sense than just idling there going nowhere.

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

Depending on the situation mine will turn off and immediately start again, like it didn't leave enough time before activating.

If you've got one of those DSG boxes and a 1.0, 3-cynlder then there are some possible reason and possible answers for that, threads on here about but I forget the details, one might have been a contributor for all I know.

From your previous post about recharging with a charger maintainer in winter because of electric power demand do bear in mind this can also be the case in summer particularly during heatwaves (4 this year) as the air-con gets a lot of use and you are still using electric powered steering and that the 12v battery likes say 20c and self-discharges twice as much at 30c and twice as much again at 40c. Also relevant particularly if the car is left parked up unused somewhere hot for a number of weeks, say while money-laundering abroad.

Bump for @GB2125 Maybe of use to you.