1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I am pulling my cars off the road for 4 months

''Wintering'' as say in North America-Canada?

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

To me two weeks would seem too long not to use a car

Every Summer i have the same issue: If i leave the car for 2 weeks out in the street with alarm, then can not start at 16th day in the morning, the battery hasn't drop dramatically but just enough to don't allow the ''crank".

49 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

If i leave the car for 2 weeks out in the street with alarm,

yeah with alarm its impossible to start after 15 days

Update: I just remembered another 2 times that i was in a hurry and didn't follow the proper procedure. After 5-6 hours that my Felicia was parked (low level, underground parking) i want to move it close to Exit so when i finish my shift to don't lose time to return home. Key insert, 1st scale and immediately crank, the car started the ''brough-brough" (trembling) and i turn it off with agony. Scenarios started in my head ''3 cylinder, damager spark plug, the coil, the pump or the gasoline pressure regulator" etc. I waited few seconds, fingers crossed and then did the start in two steps, thankfully everything went OK and the car started normally.

Few months later i did the same mistake, the car start trembling and i turn it off, the next second i slander myself ''you @%&#* ,you already know that this does not work, don't brake the rule" ,waited few second i did the engine start step-by step and the car start ''nice and easy".

So, for me now it's a rule: "No matter what, follow the protocol".

17 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Update: I just remembered another 2 times that i was in a hurry and didn't follow the proper procedure. After 5-6 hours that my Felicia was parked (low level, underground parking) i want to move it close to Exit so when i finish my shift to don't lose time to return home. Key insert, 1st scale and immediately crank, the car started the ''brough-brough" (trembling) and i turn it off with agony. Scenarios started in my head ''3 cylinder, damager spark plug, the coil, the pump or the gasoline pressure regulator" etc. I waited few seconds, fingers crossed and then did the start in two steps, thankfully everything went OK and the car started normally.

Few months later i did the same mistake, the car start trembling and i turn it off, the next second i slander myself ''you @%&#* ,you already know that this does not work, don't brake the rule" ,waited few second i did the engine start step-by step and the car start ''nice and easy".

Maybe your pump is not in such a good condition, you know our cars are the same age, so yeah, I think some degradation is possible. It is just showcased differently...

38 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Maybe your pump is not in such a good condition

When i do the start step-by-step always work good, a last year example:

still at January 2026 the same but i will have the thought in the back of my head.

We are talking about the whole mechanism or just the pump motor?

Edited 9 January9 Jan by D.FYLAKTOS

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

We are talking about the whole mechanism or just the pump motor?

No no just the motor, I don't think anything else tends to fail except maybe the corrugated tubing

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

a last year example

I mean, she starts good, don't get me wrong but a pressure AND volume measurement will give definitive results about the actual health of the pump. One thing is for sure, it aint as bad as mine...

10 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

No no just the motor

This?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144240337855

https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts/pierburg/965133

We need a gasket too?

https://www.myparto.com/en/m4075-c261/skoda-felicia-ii-6u1-fuel-pumps

https://kritosparts.gr/Part/LASTIXO-Flantza-antlia-kausimou-V102562/e162V102562

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

This?

no the 3 bar one

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1j0919087jmot-fuel-pump-motor-magneti-marelli-31562.html

The pressure isn't 2,5 bar in the regulator?

https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts/pierburg/965133

1. Pressure from [bar]: 0,3

2. Pressure [psi] from: 3,2

3. Pressure [psi] to: 5,5

I am confused with this one, 5,5 psi = 0,3 bar

3 bar = 43,51 psi

22 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The pressure isn't 2,5 bar in the regulator?

Its 3.2 minus vacuum if I recall correctly

On 07/01/2026 at 18:27, D.FYLAKTOS said:

357 919 501 B

This for 1.3 and 68HP model, don't buy a cheap one.

OMG, there are 43 different sensor manufacturers on Autodoc!!! Which ones should I be considering?

https://www.autodoc.cz/autodily/oem/357919501b

Check you have the correct colour plastic ring on it (yellow? blue? ?green? I've no idea ) and then I'd go for someone like Hella and hope it might be made in Germany or at least quality controlled by Hella if made in China. If there were any actually made in Japan that'd always be my preference.

Edited 10 January10 Jan by nta16

24 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Check you have the correct colour plastic ring on it (yellow? blue? ?green? I've no idea ) and then I'd go for someone like Hella and hope it might be made in Germany or at least quality controlled by Hella if made in China. If there were any actually made in Japan that'd always be my preference.

Thanks, will do - BTW, I managed to find the Felicia Owner's Manual! That's a first on this site, I believe.....

41 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Check you have the correct colour plastic ring on it (yellow? blue? ?green? I've no idea ) and then I'd go for someone like Hella and hope it might be made in Germany or at least quality controlled by Hella if made in China. If there were any actually made in Japan that'd always be my preference.

Hold on, what do the different colour plastic rings signify?

On 07/01/2026 at 18:27, D.FYLAKTOS said:

357 919 501 B

This for 1.3 and 68HP model, don't buy a cheap one.

Hi D, does the B on the end of the part number signify that the colour is Blue?

On 08/01/2026 at 12:12, Thefeliciahacker said:

If I don't let it prime it will just crank for longer, but keep in mind my fuel pump is dying

I found this in the owner's manual

Edited 10 January10 Jan by TonyW1967

13 minutes ago, TonyW1967 said:

does the B on the end of the part number signify that the colour is Blue?

No.

Those with Yellow ring never-ever worked properly for me, i had issues with higher coolant temperatures.

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-dual-temperature-sensor-germany-9741.html

https://www.auto-doc.ie/vemo/2290499

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

ts 3.2 minus vacuum

Haynes gives pressure after regulator for MPI 2,5 bar.

In the past i asked for a check on the Fuel Pressure Control Valve (OE Number: 047 133 035) and told me that the pressure was 2,7 bar and stable.

@Papez said : Workshop manuals says around 2.5 bar. More important is, whether presure rises to around 3bar, when vacuum tube to the regulator is disconnected?

I answered: Yes, 3.1 was when the vacum tube was off

With the plastic cover plus the tube from the filter removed (the throttle was ''naked'') shown 2.7

..............................

4 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

No.

Those with Yellow ring never-ever worked properly for me, i had issues with higher coolant temperatures.

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-dual-temperature-sensor-germany-9741.html

https://www.auto-doc.ie/vemo/2290499

Haynes gives pressure after regulator for MPI 2,5 bar.

In the past i asked for a check on the Fuel Pressure Control Valve (OE Number: 047 133 035) and told me that the pressure was 2,7 bar and stable.

@Papez said : Workshop manuals says around 2.5 bar. More important is, whether presure rises to around 3bar, when vacuum tube to the regulator is disconnected?

I answered: Yes, 3.1 was when the vacum tube was off

With the plastic cover plus the tube from the filter removed (the throttle was ''naked'') shown 2.7

..............................

OK thanks - just to be sure, which one should I buy? Because previously you gave the P/No 357 919 501 B, and in those 2 links, the P/No appears to be 357 919 501 A

1 hour ago, TonyW1967 said:

Hold on, what do the different colour plastic rings signify?

I don't know you'd have to ask the others, I could make a guess but you don't want guesses. Remember what I put about information and databases, this applies to parts and compatibility lists particularly for old cars where part numbers have been superseded. And don't assume any photo might be the actual part, for all I know you might get a photo with a yellow ring but it's also to represent a blue ring too - ask the gentlemen.

Plus I look at things from a UK perspective, you being in Czech Republic might have more local suppliers and those posters living nearer might know of more local manufacturers or the more local factories that make the parts that go into different brand boxes and bags.

Personally I also like some Beru bits but not a fan of Tosch generally, but for all I know the some of same parts might go into Beru and Tosch bags and boxes.

Well done on finding that manual.

When the car is set up correctly and running correctly then following it is the thing to do, as you (hopefully would have 20-30+ years ago. Somethings will have improved or changed in the intervening years, oils improved, petrols changed so you need to make allowances for that plus the Owner's Manual refers to a standard factory car at a reasonable age and not with 20-30 years of age and use, and possibly including some abuse and neglect.

There's more useful information in the 'Owner's Manual' back then than VWŠkoda allows for later years.

Whilst the car's not running fully check the 12v battery and connections and fully recharge the battery to 100% of it capacity, even if the sensor solves your starting issue you still want the battery in good state of charge and health particularly on a car new to you and you relearning about old cars. (I had to help push a 2003 car today, the owner used to work on car alternators but had left the car standing so long for the "new" battery to go flat, professionals and ex-professionals tend to be worse for this sort of thing, above 0c here too.)

4 hours ago, TonyW1967 said:

OMG, there are 43 different sensor manufacturers on Autodoc!!! Which ones should I be considering?

Buy 3 or 4 and measure them to see which one is following skoda curve, I have ac and yellow band sensor, I have tried many aftermarket sensors but very few gave good quality warm starts. Then return the rest with safe order, I think OEM was HELLA, so go for HELLA yellow colar if you are to buy just one

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I answered: Yes, 3.1 was when the vacum tube was off

With the plastic cover plus the tube from the filter removed (the throttle was ''naked'') shown 2.7

So yeah I am correct, nominal pressure is 3.2Bar - Vaccum which at warm idle it should be around 700 mbar

So 3.2-0.7 =2.5 bar. Nothing wrong here...

Zoom in on the skoda-parts photos and you can see the alternative brand names on the part (febi, topran (not on China one).

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-dual-temperature-sensor-germany-9741.html

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-dual-temperature-sensor-hella-41935.html

https://cat.hella.com/opencat/opencat/en_MT/all/all/na/keywords.xhtml?result=1768067090118

https://cat.hella.com/opencat/opencat/en_MT/UNIVERSAL/all/na/2/6PT%20009%20107-421/comparisonList.xhtml

https://cat.hella.com/opencat/opencat/en_MT/all/2/6PT%20009%20107-421/datasheet.xhtml

Edited 10 January10 Jan by nta16

1 hour ago, TonyW1967 said:

OK thanks - just to be sure, which one should I buy? Because previously you gave the P/No 357 919 501 B, and in those 2 links, the P/No appears to be 357 919 501 A

If you are to buy only one buy this https://www.autodoc.gr/hella/937821

And check the coilpack before you buy