Hello all, I have had issues with the front electric windows in my Fabia Mk2 for some time. Last year I assumed it was the motor so bought another one on ebay - this got things working for a while but then it stopped again.

I then tried buying new switches (as they are cheap to replace) and after a bit of faffing around got the windows working again. A few days later they stopped.

I recently took the rubber gaskets off at the door hinge to inspect the wires but they look good as new both sides. I disconnected the wires and sprayed some contact cleaner in and also removed the door card and sprayed contact cleaner on any connections I could find. Once again I (not sure what did it) got the windows moving up and down - and a few days later they no longer work.

When I turn the lights on the switches light up, and when I activate the switch I can hear clicking come from both window motors in the doors - the windows just won't move. Even when they did work they were very juddery until you opened and closed them a few times.

The sills on the door haven't been seated perfectly and I wondered whether rain has got into the door and caused the window regulator to rust - causing them to seize up and the motors are cutting out due to this resistance?

I had planned on stripping the door apart so i can take a look at the regulators but wanted to get your opinions first. Is there a way of adding grease/lubricant to the regulators without taking the door apart?

My rear drivers side door has started playing up and now no longer opens / remains locked. I wondered if this was a clue to a larger problem or ultimately a red herring when diagnosing the window issue.

I think you have to open the door trim and check for rust. Check your battery also.

I've had the window wiring disconnected for a week while i've been investigating the issues.

Just connected it all back up and it works perfectly every time. Just spent some time making sure the 1 touch open was set correctly and that now works perfectly.

Then went out of the car to bang the back door lock while I turned the key to see if I could get it to open and to my amazement - the banging caused the drivers window to open!

I couldn't believe it, all this time I couldn't open the windows and now by banging the back door it happily opens!


So clearly there is an electrical fault here and the two are linked. Any pointers on where to start looking would be greatly appreciated (as of yet am still unable to open the back door).

Is your driver's side motor a 6Y1959801 part number, or the later 6Q1959801F.

Former has two connectors, latter just one.

Either way, the 'key angle' signal from driver's door lock goes via the window motor, on its way to the central locking control unit.

This is so that the windows can be triggered to close when locking (by holding the key turned), or opened when unlocking.

I suspect the rear door fault is unrelated to the window problems.

Yeah, rather embarassingly I've just learned that if I hold the key in the unlock position it opens the windows.

The car is such a basic spec - it doesn't have remote locking so I had never assumed this.

I think while banging the door I just held the key a little longer which caused the windows to open.

What is the method for dealing with a door that is locked shut? As fas as I can tell I can't remove the inner door card while the door is shut?

There are a few videos on YouTube that address this door unopenable situation.

Have a look, but I saw one that the algorithm chucked my way just yesterday, so I may be able to get to that easily if the laptop is only 'asleep'.

Search this phrase, it brings up several options: "vw door won't open". Substituting Skoda for VW may bring up others.

One connector or two on window motor?

Edited 19 February19 Feb by Breezy_Pete

While I have your attention. Could you possible shine a light onto what the window issue could be/ what is causing the problem?

The windows all work perfectly at the moment (I fear in a few days they'll start playing up as they have done in the past). Ultimately all that I have done is disconnect the drivers side window motor and connect it back up a week later. Equally when I operate my (newly found trick) of opening the windows via the key in the lock they work perfectly.

All that I've done is properly (i think) reset the top position by holding the window switch for 5 seconds so the 1 touch works. I don't think i've done this before.

Could that really be it? Can I have any faith that the windows will stay working now?

Window motor is 6Q1.959.801.F

2 minutes ago, mayfield_uk said:

Window motor is 6Q1.959.801.F

This generation of motors has a couple of frailties, one of which is moisture/condensation related. This can give all sorts of misbehaviour depending on where the moisture has had its effects.

The relays can go bad with contact burnout too.

If it reliably clicks its relay when up or down is requested on the switchpack, it could be that the relay contacts that convey power to the motor are somewhat cooked, and making contact but not always a good enough contact to let enough current through to start the motor spinning.

Last time I saw this (click but no glass motion) scenario it was an almost severed earth wire in the door loom bellows, but you say you've found no fault there.

Edited 19 February19 Feb by Breezy_Pete

On 19/02/2026 at 18:22, Breezy_Pete said:

This generation of motors has a couple of frailties, one of which is moisture/condensation related. This can give all sorts of misbehaviour depending on where the moisture has had its effects.

The relays can go bad with contact burnout too.

If it reliably clicks its relay when up or down is requested on the switchpack, it could be that the relay contacts that convey power to the motor are somewhat cooked, and making contact but not always a good enough contact to let enough current through to start the motor spinning.

Last time I saw this (click but no glass motion) scenario it was an almost severed earth wire in the door loom bellows, but you say you've found no fault there.

Tested the windows a few days later and they are back to their usual - clicking at the motor but no movement of the window. With all the wet weather we've had and your comment about moisture/condensation I suspect this may be the issue.

Is there anything I can do to help prevent water ingress - the window rubber trim isn't seated perfectly - I might look at replacing this. I wonder where the water actually gets too - perhaps a good spray of WD40 might help?

As for the back door - all the videos I found online managed to get the door unlocked after stripping the door apart - typically by pulling the wire connected to the lock indicator thing at the top of the door. I had no such luck so resorted to smashing the lock from the inside with a club hammer until it 'unlocked'. Have a replacement mechanism on the way - hopefully delivered shortly.

The condensation seems to happen on the circuit board, under the body of the connector.

I posted some photos of the typical damage the other day in another thread, will link to it later.

Some images (with connector removed to see beneath it) here:

Not an easy DIY fix. Secondhand prices aren't too bad currently, but be careful matching part numbers, including the one that starts SK, beneath the main 6Q1.... number.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537822-front-window-going-mental/#findComment-5996104

Brilliant - thanks so much! Will take a proper look this evening.

Be careful if you take board out. There's danger of brush damage. If you look further up that linked thread, I've posted a video showing an important 'knack' to avoiding such damage.