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N-S-F electric window fault

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Hi All,

So my N-S-F electric window has stopped working.

I can hear a click from the electric motor when I use either drivers or passengers window switch.

I have removed the inner door trim.

With the electric motor removed but still electrically connected I still hear just the click when I use any window button.

With the electric motor removed from the door the window can be pushed up and down easily and it sounds all good.

So I am now assuming that the electric motor is at fault.

Should you be able to turn the white plastic gear in the centre of the black rubber seal?

5JA959811K LEFT FRONT WINDOW MOTOR / 50A959811K / 17447064 FOR SKODA FABIA III - Picture 1 of 10

Is there a way of testing the motor, perhaps by applying 12 volts to it.

There are 6 electrical connections on the connector block, three large flat and three small pin shaped.

5JA959811K LEFT FRONT WINDOW MOTOR / 50A959811K / 17447064 FOR SKODA FABIA III - Picture 4 of 10

Any idea which ones to use?

Thanks in advance. AG Falco

Edited by AGFalco
Added F for front door.

  • AGFalco changed the title to N-S-F electric window fault
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No, you shouldn't be able to turn that cog, the motor shaft has a worm gear on it, and those don't work 'backwards'.

Have you checked wiring at passenger side A-pillar bellows? A power wire that's almost but not quite parted may be able to click a relay but not start the motor spinning.

Will look at wiring info shortly,

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How many wires and ways in the loom connector?

Circuit diagram shows a 10 pin connector at motor, permanent 12V on red/yellow at pin 2, brown earth at pin 3, passenger side switch inputs on 5 and 6, green/black and black/grey respectively.

Then inputs from driver's side switch on 7 and 4, red/violet and brown/black.

I don't see a way to power motor itself directly without disassembling the motor.

  • Author
35 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Have you checked wiring at passenger side A-pillar bellows? A power wire that's almost but not quite parted may be able to click a relay but not start the motor spinning.

Not yet, but will do.

Connector look like this:-

Windor Motor connector.jpg

Thanks. AG Falco

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Ah, just spotted the empty 3 positions in front of contacts 5, 6, 7 making it potentially a 10-way connector. Was scratching my head til then.

Everything seems to correspond colour-wise.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Problem solved.

There are 6 wires on the motor connector. See photo above.

Two small wires from one door switch, and the second two small wires from the other door switch.

These power a relay to then power the window. This is the click I could here.

The two thicker wires power the motor itself.

I checked the wires in the passenger A pillar rubber bellows, and these looked OK.

I then unclipped the block connector from the car end of the rubber bellows.

I then checked continuity of the two thicker motor power wires from the block connector the the motor connector and these were OK.

I then removed the drivers inner door trim and tried the passenger motor on the drivers side.

Both motors worked on the drivers side but neither worked on the passenger side.

It is as if there is no power getting to the motor. 🤨

I then did what I should have done first.

Check the fuse. ☹️ Guess what. ☹️

All good now I changed the fuse, but I don't know what made the fuse blow.

There is one fuse that covers both motors and also two more for each individual door motor.

So check all three fuses first.

Thanks. AG Falco

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Possible attempt to lower window when frosted up?

That might pull enough current to pop the fuse .

  • Author

That was my thought, as it happened back in February.

But the car lives in an insulated garage during the night.

Never seen even 0 degrees C in the garage.

Might have been on the way home after work.

Thanks again Pete.

AG Falco

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