I know others had this problem, but can't find a definitive solution. If I jack up the rear of the car using the reinforced sill-weld, I then have nowhere to put an axle stand. I'm reluctant to pick a suspension member, not being confident it won't get damaged. I noticed just in from the jack points there is an oval plastic cover that comes off and reveals two circulare rubber bungs a few cm apart. I have seen elsewhere someone jacking a Tiguan on this zone using a block of wood as a spreader, saving the sill weld for axle stands. Is this good practice?

Thanks!

Hi, the below shows what you described and with a nice chunk of wood to ensure you won’t damage anything I would say this seems fine.

Just to add - the jacking point on the sill is actually only for emergency use. The car isn't designed to be lifted here, if at all possible. Absolutely get a decent jack pad.

8 hours ago, OccyVRS said:

Just to add - the jacking point on the sill is actually only for emergency use. The car isn't designed to be lifted here, if at all possible. Absolutely get a decent jack pad.

Intuitively that makes sense, but the workshop manual is very strict about not lifting it anywhere else! Which is why I've come here.

9.3 Raise vehicle

Raise vehicle with a lift platform or a workshop jack

The vehicle must only be raised with a workshop jack in the indi‐

cated jacking points -arrow A- and -arrow B-.

a = 12 cm

b = 24 cm

The jacking points are located at the stiff joints of the bottom side

rail.

7 hours ago, drjaking said:

Intuitively that makes sense, but the workshop manual is very strict about not lifting it anywhere else! Which is why I've come here.

9.3 Raise vehicle

Raise vehicle with a lift platform or a workshop jack

The vehicle must only be raised with a workshop jack in the indi‐

cated jacking points -arrow A- and -arrow B-.

a = 12 cm

b = 24 cm

The jacking points are located at the stiff joints of the bottom side

rail.

I would absolutely lift it on the subframe. Having just spent nearly £1,000 fixing damage to the sill lift points - don't use them. The vehicle is designed to be lifted on a proper lift. You'll be fine using the jacking points occasionally, with the correct pad, but I wouldn't make a habit out of it.

17 hours ago, OccyVRS said:

I would absolutely lift it on the subframe. Having just spent nearly £1,000 fixing damage to the sill lift points - don't use them. The vehicle is designed to be lifted on a proper lift. You'll be fine using the jacking points occasionally, with the correct pad, but I wouldn't make a habit out of it.

^^^ as above - but on or as near to a subframe mounting-point as possible.

You get VAG jack pads, but they do sometimes require modification. If the slit is too narrow, it will peel away the undersea (if this hasn't already been done). If it's too wide, it won't support the pinch weld adequately.

Common lift points are the front subframe (it's beefy) and the rear suspension points or beam. Again, make sure you have an adequate jack pad.

This figure seems to agree - this is from a different bit of the manual and looks like the lift is in from the sill seam. So I read that as meaning the sill weld is for short term jacking, eg for a tyre change, while the adjacent part of the subframe behind that is suitable for lifting during maintenance. I will use a bit of carcassing timber between the axle stand and the car to spread the pressure.

I don't really understand what the plastic cover and the rubber bungs are about but they seem to be located just where the lift would go in this diagram. Seems an odd thing to do because the plastic cover would get mashed if it's not removed.

Edited 3 hours ago3 hr by drjaking

2 hours ago, drjaking said:

This figure seems to agree - this is from a different bit of the manual and looks like the lift is in from the sill seam. So I read that as meaning the sill weld is for short term jacking, eg for a tyre change, while the adjacent part of the subframe behind that is suitable for lifting during maintenance. I will use a bit of carcassing timber between the axle stand and the car to spread the pressure.

I don't really understand what the plastic cover and the rubber bungs are about but they seem to be located just where the lift would go in this diagram. Seems an odd thing to do because the plastic cover would get mashed if it's not removed.

I believe that the pad/bung should be removed and replaced with Audi-type lift pads.