Just to resurect an old thread.

I bought a Midnight Pumpkin (mettallic special) the other day (E-Bay from Hong Kong

The bearings I have bought work out at 59p each including P&P.

They are described as - Double Metal Shielded Sealed VERY HIGH quality ABec 3 Ball Race Bearings. These bearings will rotate upto 65,000 rpm. The same as ceramic, at a fraction of the cost.

The seller (E-Bay) has a very good rating and some of the feedback looks like it's from people who know what they are talking about.

Can you reccomend a decent servo for the steering? I need one for the Midnight Pumpkin and one for the Twin Detonator? the HiTec one the Twin Det came with is crap, needs much higher torque to stop blades of grass deflecting the steering!!

The bearings I have bought work out at 59p each including P&P.

They are described as - Double Metal Shielded Sealed VERY HIGH quality ABec 3 Ball Race Bearings. These bearings will rotate upto 65,000 rpm. The same as ceramic, at a fraction of the cost.

The seller (E-Bay) has a very good rating and some of the feedback looks like it's from people who know what they are talking about.

Can you reccomend a decent servo for the steering? I need one for the Midnight Pumpkin and one for the Twin Detonator? the HiTec one the Twin Det came with is crap, needs much higher torque to stop blades of grass deflecting the steering!!

The ones that I use are...

Futaba S9402 - These work out at about £90 each and have a 60 degree speed @ 6V of 0.10 seconds with a torque of 8kg / cm. It has metal gears and bearings too. Ideal for both steering (electric / nitro) and throttle (nitro)

KO Propo 2173 fet - this one runs off 7.2V instead of the normal 6V via a fet lead from the speedo, which gives a much higher spec servo for use in electric models (NOT NITRO!!). It has plastic gears for quicker turning speed too, which last a hell of a long time.

KO Propo 2174 fet - runs off 6V and rotates thru 60 degrees in .13 seconds and has 12kg/cm of torque ----- This servo is perfect for throttle & brakes on a nitro model.

However, I have got some spanking new Hitec ones that are the same spec as the above £90 servos but a fraction of the price (RRP). They are quite good, however I have not tested them yet (as I havnt needed them since the others havnt failed!)

These are the HS-5925MG, which has 0.08 seconds thru 60 degrees and 9.2kg/cm of torque. RRP about £59.00

You will be amazed at how quick these move and just how much more "off roading" you can do!

However, what you could do is run a +ve connection from your 7.2V battery to the +ve connection of the "crap" servo to give it a higher voltage thus upping the torque and speed - however it wont last very long before it fails. Its probably worth a try though.

Another thing is the servo saver. This is a small spring that prevents the servo being damaged if you hit something with the front wheels. Tamiya tend to suppy just a plastic "spring" cup which is very crap, and tends to snap very easily too. I would recommend getting a "Trickbits" servo saver as this has a metal spring (normally 3) and gives more responsive steering. These are about £3!:eek:

Hope this helps you out!

Mike Pembo

Edit, PS, the bearings that you have bought will not be the same as ceramic, as ceramic bearings do not corrode and they do not suffer in extreme temperatures (thats why the main bearings on a racing nitro engine are normally ceramic!). But, for the use you will be giving them they will be more than adaquate.

Nice one, cheers mate, I'll be looking for the trickbits servo savers, is there any specific one I need or just compare to whats fitted already?

Might keep an eye out for those Servo's too, £90 is a bit steep for what I'm going to use it for, might stretch to the Hi-Tecs though. are any of those E-Bay ones any good? they seem quite cheap and have metal gears etc in them, mostly imported from HK or somewhere.

E.G. eBay.co.uk: 2 x MG995 Metal Gear High Speed & Torque Digi Servo KH (item 270054213150 end time 15-Nov-06 18:45:00 GMT)

Nice one, cheers mate, I'll be looking for the trickbits servo savers, is there any specific one I need or just compare to whats fitted already?

Might keep an eye out for those Servo's too,

Ah the Egress. In 1989 we had a radio controlled car club at my schoolin Seaford. There was someone flash that had one then. I had a Hornet, Friend had a boomerang I think. God that Egress flew.

Funny this thread was brought back up tbh, as I was going to post some pics of my nitro Im getting ready for the nitros and was going to make somesort of blog thread on here so people could see a glimpse into my life

My tuesday night racers

My tuesday night racers

Look spot on them mate Really like the Suzuki - very different.

I had a natter to a few of the other experienced drivers at Teeside Radio Car Club as we need a class for beginers despratly - and the M-03 chassis tick all the boxes for a budget class that still gives close racing. So, one of the lads bought one last week and I should be getting one within the next couple of weeks and hopefully we can encourage more over to the "small side":rofl: .

What rules are you racing to or is it an open class?

This is my nitro touring car (Serpent 710) that I will be racing in this years UK IC nationals. Should be good fun and Ill take my camera to get some nice piccies for you all First race isnt until April 1st but you know what they say, prior preparation prevens p155 poor performance

Heres some teasers before I put the engine and pipe in:

Rules are fairly tight in the M-03 series as we want to keep it low cost and fun.

Open to Tamiya FWD M Series chassis variants – M-01, M-03, M03M and M-03L

Hop Up option’s –

53348 Bearing Set,

50473 Servo Saver,

53333 Sport Spring set,

53343 Stabiliser set,

53345 Toe in Uprights

50746 CV Plastic Oil Filled Damper set or any Damper set of the same dimensions

Any quick release Battery holder

Any foam bumper (must not protrude from the Bodyshell)

Standard 540 Silver Can Motors with no modification.

Standard kit 20-tooth pinion only

Tamiya 60D Radial tyres with Standard Inserts

Original Kit Wheel size only

Any Commercially available Bodyshell suitable for M Chassis

Tamiya TEU-101BK* (Kit) ESC or similar*, or kit Mechanical Speed Controller

Standard stick pack up to 1700mah

Minimum weight 1250 grammes excluding transponder

5.0mm minimum ride height

The differential can be tuned with the use of shims and any Oil/Grease, etc, but it must not be locked

Shims can be used to remove any play from steering/suspension components

So basically you can turn up with a kit box car and be competative if your a good driver. Bearings etc dont have to be Tamiya (which is a goood job looking at the price of them).

Ive just treated myself to some TRF fluorine coated aluminium dampers

Just starting to prep the bB for paint now.

Airbrushing or can?

Much prefer airbrushed, make sure you post up the final product.

Ive had a Toyota Levin sat in the shed that Ive masked up and havnt got round to spraying yet (that was 4 weeks ago!)

Just using a can at the moment, don't really do enough as yet to warrant a airbrush, but Tamiya paint is pretty darn good. I heat the can up gently in my daughters bottle warmer and it comes out really fine and very well mixed.

My Kamtec CooperS shell turned up today so wil be doing two bodies over the weekend I think if i get time.

Just using a can at the moment, don't really do enough as yet to warrant a airbrush, but Tamiya paint is pretty darn good. I heat the can up gently in my daughters bottle warmer and it comes out really fine and very well mixed.

My Kamtec CooperS shell turned up today so wil be doing two bodies over the weekend I think if i get time.

Try Tells-shells, very expensive (somewhere in the region of

This is my nitro touring car (Serpent 710) that I will be racing in this years UK IC nationals. Should be good fun and Ill take my camera to get some nice piccies for you all First race isnt until April 1st but you know what they say, prior preparation prevens p155 poor performance

Heres some teasers before I put the engine and pipe in:

I have a 710 Team Car, haven't even started it yet

Btw anyone know the name of the connections used to plug into the receivers ? I need to get a female version...to enable me to charge my receiver pack.

Also any ideas what current and Peak Voltage you need to charge these batteries, Max & Min I could use ? for receiver pack (I think its 1700mAh), starter box pack 2x 7.2V 2000mAH (i made a cable to join the 2 packs together to charge both at the same time), Radio Pack and Glowplug (Ni-Cd 1.2V SC 1600mAH).

This is the Charger I have, http://www.modelsport.nl/img/button_laders.gif, it says refer to battery recommendations but how do I figure that out. 0.1A is the lowest Current on it and it recommends 15 V???? (can't remember the rest of the unit.)

I have a 710 Team Car, haven't even started it yet

Ill be selling her (unfortunatly) soon as I will be ordering a 720 either this week or next depending on if my Fabias gearbox is terminal:O

Btw anyone know the name of the connections used to plug into the receivers ? I need to get a female version...to enable me to charge my receiver pack.

Connections used to plug into receivers - receiver plugs I think they are JST if I remember rightly, if its for the 710 battery, this is not a normal B.E.C plug and as you say will need a female servo socket to charge it - about

Cheers for the info,

Ill be selling her (unfortunatly) soon as I will be ordering a 720 either this week or next depending on if my Fabias gearbox is terminal:O

Is there much of a difference between the 710 & 720 ?

Connections used to plug into receivers - receiver plugs I think they are JST if I remember rightly, if its for the 710 battery, this is not a normal B.E.C plug and as you say will need a female servo socket to charge it - about £1.99 from your local hobby shop - however they do go up in cost if you want gold pins etc. Make sure they dont sell you an Acoms one, and that you get a futaba style one which has the spline on it. If only you lived nearby as I have tons of these in by connecters box.

Is this the one you mean?:

Its this one alright

As for charging it, that charger is not one common to the UK market and I have not seen one like it. Best one to have for nitro racing is the ProPeak one at £44.99 but I dont remember the name of it:rolleyes: - which charges the glo start, tranny and receiver simultaniously! I have a couple of these kicking about and will try and find it if you want to buy it.

A friend bought it while in Holland, its Mains & 12V. I think it was about 90 Euro. Only thing is everything can't be charged at once.

Starter box battery, you will not gain anything by connecting the two and charging them at the same time, as it will still take the same amount of time.

It was more for convience joining them, so wouldn't have to remember to change them over. I connected them, + charger to +ve of 1st Pack, the -ve to the +ve of 2nd pack and the -ve of the second pack to the Charger -ve.

Furthermore, did you discharge them to the same voltages before you joined them as this will cause you problems when charging?

I discharged it them in so far as letting the starter box run till it nearly stopped (jaysus theres a lot to learn at this RC Racing).

I would only suggest charging them individually so the charge is not going to over heat them (as I presume they are stick packs which are terrible for overheating).

When I did charge them it shows the mAh value, it said approx 2000, wasn't sure if that should be 2k or 4k due to having 2 packs together.

With the 0.1A didn't seem to heat them at all, approx 3-4 hrs it took to charger before the charger signalled to stop.

I'll check out all the Battery details and let ya know...just so I know what I'm at

Cheers again btw

Cheers for the info,

Your welcome

Is there much of a difference between the 710 & 720 ?

No, the 720 however does feel more "tuned" out of the box and has a standard set up closer to the sweet spot required for EFRA & BRCA rules. But, visually the two are almost identical.

The only differences I have noticed is that:

• the rear wishbones now have an upper camber link,
  
• the "DRS" (Dynamic Rear Steering) system is not gone as no one used it
  
• No locating pins on the chassis for the brake pads
  
• Rear anti roll bar is ballraced now
  
• There is somesort of double rear shock tower, however I had this system on my 710 long before they had the 720 out thanks to fibrelyte.
  
• Shocks now have fixed hole pistons, rather than the adjustable system which frankly was annoying.
  

It was more for convience joining them, so wouldn't have to remember to change them over. I connected them, + charger to +ve of 1st Pack, the -ve to the +ve of 2nd pack and the -ve of the second pack to the Charger -ve.

Thats fine, series connection of batteries is ok.

I discharged it them in so far as letting the starter box run till it nearly stopped (jaysus theres a lot to learn at this RC Racing).

That should be fine, youd be suprised how many people wouldnt think to do this

When I did charge them it shows the mAh value, it said approx 2000, wasn't sure if that should be 2k or 4k due to having 2 packs together.

With the 0.1A didn't seem to heat them at all, approx 3-4 hrs it took to charger before the charger signalled to stop.

no matter how many cells theres is in the pack, the milliamp hour (mAh) does not add up so 2k is fine.

0.1A is pretty low current, if they arent getting hot then up the current. If you really want to keep the two together charge them at 2A to start with and if they still dont get hot crank it up till they just get warm.

Once you remember which settings for which batteries its a doddle, and you can really shove some serious punch into them by changing a couple of settings.

For example, I have a regional race this weekend with my electric buggy, and I have discharged the packs - then equalised each pack and brought each cell down to 0.01V - and tonight I will charge them at 3A. This is because a lower current provides greater run time, and a higher current provides more punch.

Then, 10~15mins before my race I charge them at 8A to get maximum punch, and I only use 1 pack per day.

Hope you get everything sorted:thumbup:

Your welcome

Once you remember which settings for which batteries its a doddle, and you can really shove some serious punch into them by changing a couple of settings.

For example, I have a regional race this weekend with my electric buggy, and I have discharged the packs - then equalised each pack and brought each cell down to 0.01V - and tonight I will charge them at 3A. This is because a lower current provides greater run time, and a higher current provides more punch.

Then, 10~15mins before my race I charge them at 8A to get maximum punch, and I only use 1 pack per day.

Hope you get everything sorted:thumbup:

Interesting.

I'll put up the correct battery specs when I get a chance, its usefull to get experience of the Max & min Currents to use

Interesting.

I'll put up the correct battery specs when I get a chance, its usefull to get experience of the Max & min Currents to use

Yup, its not nice to see a brand new matched pack of cells shrivel up because they have over heated due to high currents and shorted out

Even worse is the new Lipo cells which are very messy when they shrivel up and die Seen 3 up to now.

Anywho, Ive just spotted this..

And really want one!!

Well heres all the info updated, I put the data under each one that you recommended.

Receiver Battery (6V 850mAh NiMh AAA Battery)

Delta Peak, 20mV

Current, 0.5A (slow charge) / 1.2A (Fast Charge)

Trickle, 0.2A

Linear charge

Starter Box Batteries 2x 2000mAh Sanyo 7.2V Sticks (NiCD) are:

Delta Peak, 40mV

Current, 4A

Trickle, 0.5A

Flex Charge

Radio Battery is a Team Magic Transmitter Battery 10.6V 1600mAh

(I THINK it

Receiver Battery (6V 850mAh NiMh AAA Battery)

Delta Peak, 20mV

Current, 0.5A (slow charge) / 1.2A (Fast Charge)

Trickle, 0.2A

Linear charge

Thats fine

Starter Box Batteries 2x 2000mAh Sanyo 7.2V Sticks (NiCD) are:

Delta Peak, 40mV

Current, 4A

Trickle, 0.5A

Flex Charge

Fine again

Radio Battery is a Team Magic Transmitter Battery 10.6V 1600mAh

(I THINK it

No, this isnt a photo from the "virtual fishing festival" Its yesterdays Round 3 of the N.E Indoor regionals

Guess which is me:rofl: :

(2nd from the right, looking to my right;) )

Oh, and again - this ones a bit easier:

OMFG, another one (note the sexy blue n white sexy carrier bag water proofing system courtesy of Stockton Modeller & Pembo Innovations - peg not included!):

Anywho, iyesterdays regional was a good days racing considering Ive been out of offroad for a while. Was seeding in the second from top heat as car 3 so I was seeded about 16th out of about 90+ drivers. No pressure then .

Managed to have a decent first round, keeping my position overall as 16th and a decent second round which kept me still about the 16th mark. But the third round , that was poop as I was flipped over by another car, then struggled to make it back up - and had to slow down to let the race leaders lap me (rules:rolleyes: ) even though I was quicker than them, so I just over took them again as there is no rule against that :P but this didnt help me out and I dropped to about 30th :(. Final round and pushed myself back up and got to 15th:D which put me in the B final.

Very hard final and very close racing, bumper to bumper all the way - managed to gain two positions in the last section my launching off a jump and clearing two cars Rolled it over the line too - spectacular! Ended up 6th overall in the B final.

Very good days racing, but bloody boring in comparison to nitro Which, I managed to get the engine fitted in between rounds but need a smaller collet for the flywheel, a gasket for the zorst, and some fuel to get me going again :(

Hey all, i soooooo really for along time wanted to start into this for fun ( in local car park haha) but not sure how much it would cost or what to get thats not too expensive but worth while......would like the combustion type rather than leccy.

Above all i would like a RC helicopter but hey, i must first crawl before walk then run?

Anyone any ideas where to look n start, i live in West Yorkshire so if anyone local who can show me there gear for an insight that would be great........

thanks

Spevie