Can anyone tell exactly what has to be removed to allow the cambelt to be replaced?

No, I am not going to do the job myself, just investating an "issue" I now have..

Cheers

Front bumper off, undetray off and disconnect the air intake pipe. It also helps to disconnect the n/s lower intercooler pipe.

Then its just a case of removing the bolts that hold the lock carrier on, fit the long slider bolts in (special tools) and the front slides forward.

Not headlights off?

There are a few connectors which need to be parted beside the PAS reservoir and the bonnet release cable has to be disconnected at the join - which is thoughtfully located under the plenum chamber cover.

You don't need special tools to hold the lock carrier in position - a length of M8 studding (available from B&Q) sawn up together with a few M8 nuts does the job perfectly.

Haynes manual 4279 (B5 Passat) describes the job fairly well.

rotodiesel.

The connectors dont need to the disconnected just unclipped from the housings on the PAS reservioir. The bonnet cable doesnt need to be disconnected it stretches just fine.

You dont need anything in thoery to hold the lock carrier, it will just sit there, I was just stating how a dealer would do it.

The headlights come foward with the lock carrier.

The problem with moving the lock carrier like this is that further problems will be caused later in the car's life.

VAG put a connector in the bonnet release cable in order to prevent the possibility of the cable grommet being pulled out of the bulkhead when you do this job. If you do pull the grommet out, you won't see that this has happened and the car will then leak rainwater out of the plenum chamber into the footwell. Likewise, the connectors are there for a good reason. Finally, if you let the front just hang, there is a fair chance of damaging a hose. M8 studding is cheap and the holes for it are all there.

VAG cars are fairly sophisticated and need careful treatment to prevent consequential problems later in the car's life. I wish some of the main dealers knew this.

rotodiesel.

Fair comment, I just pull the cable out a bit from where it rests under the air intake pipe, never had a problem as yet.

Your better off getting studding if you can, the propper VAG tools are a bit short. The handy thing on Audi vehicles is the bumper bolts are the right thread and nice and long, ideal for the job.

Andy, are you able to give us a clue as to what the problem is? Then maybe the resident experts might be able to offer a better opinion as to whether it's related?

Andy, are you able to give us a clue as to what the problem is? Then maybe the resident experts might be able to offer a better opinion as to whether it's related?

Nothing mechanical...purely asthetics.

Headlamps looking a bit low down maybe?

Headlamps looking a bit low down maybe?

Offside overhanging wing, and not square. Bumper hanging front down and not square.

ps.. yes I,m ****ed off

Bot of a shoddy job then.

Carrier hasnt been put back on straight.

Bot of a shoddy job then.

Carrier hasnt been put back on straight.

So bumper off (3 torx top, 4 in each arch, 3 undertray fixings?) then just a case of loosen bolts for carrier to refit?

You have seven main bolts for the carrier (T45 torx), two T30's at the top and two T30's at the sides (one also on the water bottle but shouldnt need to loosen them for adjustment.

And the headlights are fixed to the carrier?

Indeed they are.

Cheers m8, I will probably have a go one evening this week.

Would I be right in assuming the bumper just slides straight off after the 14 screws are removed? Or does it clip/engage somewhere too?

They slot in at the sides, just pull forward.

Cheers:)

Decided to have the dealer rectify these issues, which they did. I don't think they will have me on their Christmas card list now, but hey ho. So thankyou Sherlodge Garage, the car is fine now, mechanically and asthetically.

Glad you got it sorted Andy.