Knocking noise from the front, maybe a broken anti roll bar.

[AndyPandy]

Rum4Mo,

thanks for the info,

Andypandy

[BoilingPoint]

Had a nearside wheel bearing go just recently and since the repair I've noticed a knocking noise... Took it back to the dealer they told me the Drive-Shaft Bolts were loose, I believe they mean the ones the wheels are mounted too. They simply tightened them up and I was on my way. However they did say that Skoda advise the fitting of an uprated set of Bolts and it's apparantly an easy job to do, requiring little more than an allen key. Oah and the knocking noise has gone, so looks like my local dealer were spot on. But to think that the main skoda dealer (who replaced the wheel bearing) didn't correctly tighten the bolts amazes me, talk about useless. !!

[cboman]

I have similar symptoms but the problem is that my car is only 6 months old and about 11000 km's driven... Can it be the same thing?:confused:

[fatbelly]

I had this a few months back.

Main Dealer replaced complete ARB.

[Mouse]

Mine is now NOT knocking. The steering rack was replaced and it still knocked. The dealer had not done the tracking, i took it to KwikFit to have the tracking done (8mm out) as the dealer would not do it and now my knocking and clanging has gone, it must have been the track rod ends. Every major suspension component checked and or replaced by 3 main dealers and nobody replaced the track rod ends. Oh well, i`m happy now.

[ap0gee1978]

^ Eh!?! The mind boggles!!!

[RogerH]

Both anti-roll bars in my car caused knocking when on bumpy roads or speed bumps. Both knocked from new and were changed under the warranty, one at 10,000 miles and the other at 20,000. Car is nice a quiet now.

[Tech1e]

Both anti-roll bars in my car caused knocking when on bumpy roads or speed bumps. Both knocked from new and were changed under the warranty, one at 10,000 miles and the other at 20,000. Car is nice a quiet now.

? There is only one anti roll bar.

[RogerH]

? There is only one anti roll bar.

Good point. What is the propler name for the vertical bar you can see when you put the front wheel on full lock.

Is it the anti-roll bar link bar?

Roger

[Mouse]

Drop links..

[wozza-vrs]

i have just noticed this morning my car makes a whurring noise when turning and a clunking noise when going over bumps. i assume i can claim this on warranty as its only a year old with 12000 miles on the clock??? i hope its nothing serious. :confused:

[skoda john]

Could anyone tell me if this problem affects all models/years as my wife drives a 2006 VRS which displays the same symptoms.

Thanks in advance, as I'm sure someone will answer.

[xfiles_92]

My Fabia vrs is in today having the bushes replaces and mines a 55 plate, so yours could be the same. I have only done 19k in it as well.

Xfiles_92

[rum4mo]

Could anyone tell me if this problem affects all models/years as my wife drives a 2006 VRS which displays the same symptoms.

Thanks in advance, as I'm sure someone will answer.

This thread originally refered to the anti-roll bar issue, I think, - that problem, ie the broken collars or stops, stopped being an issue from 2003 or 2003.5 onwards. The next front suspension issue, ie the front TCA rear bushes, seems never to change unless Skoda, Seat and Volkswagen revisit this bushes basic design. I suppose you people that still have warranty cover really cannot fix this by getting Seat Ibiza Cupra solid bushes fitted - so unless you can reason with Skoda, this problem will reappear every few months or years.

[xfiles_92]

They did actually replace the anti-roll bar on my car not just the bushes, surely if this is a design fault on VAG cars then they should be replacing the bushes/anti-roll bar free of charge. Will not be keeping my Vrs after the 3 years now.

xfiles_92

[green beard]

Hi all, my vrs has been knocking since abou 1200 miles and now done 12k.

Had it in dealers who say they checked everything, suspension (including drop links), steering, wheel bearings.

They seem to feel its an intermittent fault and asked me to let them know if it gets worse but its always there when driving over bumps at slower speeds, off camber bumps, cobbles and general uneven surfaces.

Car is fine on A roads and Mways but I do a lot of driving round towns and in the country so you can well imagine that I'm a little fed up :(

I dont live or work near a dealer either so just nipping the car in to them isn't possible.

Can't see anyone providing a lot of advice/solutions to this, just wanted to generally moan about it!

[rum4mo]

They did actually replace the anti-roll bar on my car not just the bushes, surely if this is a design fault on VAG cars then they should be replacing the bushes/anti-roll bar free of charge. Will not be keeping my Vrs after the 3 years now.

xfiles_92

Well I've had this Polo 9N (from new) since September 2002 - and since November last year its cost me

[wonkydonkey]

Hi,

This topic is confusing me slightly and I would appreciate some help with it.....

The front offside collar has cracked, slipped out and fallen off the antiroll bar on my 2002 1.9tdi Fabia.

In fact the collar displayed in the image in the thread header.

My questions are this:

1. Do I have to replace the whole ARB?

2. If not, can I repair this problem without dropping the subframe?

3. Where's the best place to get the necessary parts?

4. Local dealer quoting

[wonkydonkey]

My local skoda servicing centre has advised me that my front anti-roll bars on the fabia need replacing and the "console", as the bars are rubbing against it? They have quoted

[Mouse]

Bumpety Bump.

I have had regarding this issue. Via Skoda technical experts >

A new steering rack

Dashboard out and new steering column

New track rod ends

4 wheel alignment

Bonnet re-alignment

Shocker top bearing

Car has been in the dealers for 27 days since new.

12 months later. The cure for me has been the silicon grease fix as per Skodas own Technical bulletin.

Done by myself took 30 mins and cost me

[Adeph]

Hi,

I am a newbie here too, my 2000 Fabia's got a nasty clunk.

Managed toremove the wheel and take a quick photo.

How can you check to see if the roll bar is damaged?

A

[Chris_55]

Yes, that one is damaged and needs replacing.

[rum4mo]

Yes, that one is damaged and needs replacing.

That blackish plastic sleeve that is showing should not be there - it should be further in with its smaller diameter inside the mounting rubber, the bigger diameter section at this end should be butting up against the end of the mounting rubber - the other end - ie the O/S should also be the same. Its possibly the other side of that ARB that has lost its plastic collar as this side looks okay apart from the ARB being too far across towards the N/S. As said by Chris that ARB has failed in the usual way. The replacement VAG part will have a metal collar or stop - you will also need two new sized mounting rubbers and probably quite a few bolts. If you plan to do it yourself remember the lower cross member needs dropping to get the ARB out and the new one in. That probably means, unless you have the indexing studs, that you will need a four wheel alignment as the lower end of both sides of the front suspension get tied into this cross member. Dealer or proper indep job I reckon - I certainly walked away from it after looking at what was needing done.

[Adeph]

That blackish plastic sleeve that is showing should not be there - it should be further in with its smaller diameter inside the mounting rubber, the bigger diameter section at this end should be butting up against the end of the mounting rubber - the other end - ie the O/S should also be the same. Its possibly the other side of that ARB that has lost its plastic collar as this side looks okay apart from the ARB being too far across towards the N/S. As said by Chris that ARB has failed in the usual way. The replacement VAG part will have a metal collar or stop - you will also need two new sized mounting rubbers and probably quite a few bolts. If you plan to do it yourself remember the lower cross member needs dropping to get the ARB out and the new one in. That probably means, unless you have the indexing studs, that you will need a four wheel alignment as the lower end of both sides of the front suspension get tied into this cross member. Dealer or proper indep job I reckon - I certainly walked away from it after looking at what was needing done.

Cheers 4 that, so do I need to replace the whole bar?

A

[rum4mo]

Sorry for the delay - I've been away on holiday, in answer to your question - yes the complete ARB is replaced with a modified one - unless you can get someone to accurately weld metal stops on after removing both plastic ones (thick washers maybe) and then getting smaller diameter rubber mounts and just maybe new pipe clamps - the smaller diameter rubber mounts are needed because the thickness of the plastic sleeves will have been removed - getting the correct ones for use with the new ARB will be okay. If you can manage to get this ARB repair done and the welded area painted to protect against corrosion, then you should end up saving a fortune as the costly bit is dropping the subframe - or cross member and then getting a full alignment carried out. I just bought the bits, looked at what was required to be done - ie the realignment - saved myself the pain and let my VW garage do the job - quite expensive, maybe you should look out for a good indep VAG garage.