I'm currently 90% certain on changing my Mk1 VRs for a Mk2 TDi, but I'm having a nightmare actually finding a dealer that can give me a test drive of one to confirm my decision. I've even used the Skoda UK web site and had no reply to date.

I live in Warrington and work near Stoke and no dealers near those two locations have one, does anyone know of a dealer in Lancashire, Cheshire, NW etc that has one for a test drive?

fancy a drive down to kent? weve got nice scenery and i'll let you drive our forecourt tdi

Mitchell Cheshire Oaks have a used 10,000 mile TDI vRS which I took out?

Mitchell Group | Used Section | Details

No question that they're better than standard lights, it's just that they don't add any value come resale time and so are an expensive option. They might make the car easier to sell, but you don't get any more money - finance companies simply add some interest to their list price and divide that by the number of months the deal is over and don't change the final payment.

Of course most options don't add value so it's a personal choice, but as I don't do much night driving they are not such a high priority for me.

Some people worry about what options add value at resale, others just spec the car to be enjoyed whilst they own it. I think Xenons are excellent and I wouldnt buy another new car without them in all honesty. The vision they provide over halogen units down our local unlit sections of dual carriageway could even be described as safety improvers imo!

Im a big fan of light assist also - it seems more inclined to put them on rather than not though - then again, ive always driven with daytime runners - this is just the modern, even more noticeable equivalent!

Some people worry about what options add value at resale, others just spec the car to be enjoyed whilst they own it.

That's a fair point, but I always have one eye on the value at change time because that'll affect what I get next.

Certain options are more likely to return some value at resale time () and they usually include metallic paint (depending on colour, of course), safety features (particularly for family orientated cars), parking sensors (allows women to apply makeup whilst reversing) and audio upgrades. However, things like bigger wheels, xenons, light assist and maxi-dot (although imperative if you want the OEM Bluetooth kit) probably won't be worth any extra :thumbdwn:.

Interestingly, when I specefied leather on my last new car (Audi cabriolet) it returned nearly half the value of that extra in the residual value because buyers expected leather in a 'premium' soft top.

So in general terms, you can change what could be a prudent purchase (e.g. low cost, highish resale value) into an imprudent one by getting carried away in the optional extras section. Of course the other side of that equation means that you can often pick up well spec'd used cars for little more than the standard versions, because someone else has taken the 'hit'.

Still, the world would be far duller place if we all liked the same things . . . . .

Ok, similar issue to PSM but I'm a bit further back than him. Got a Mk1 Octavia vRS, took it to Jabbasport who chipped it and fitted a rear anti-roll bar. I now act as a mobile chicane at some lotus days and at Silverstone, mainly because I invested

Thanks for the offers, but found out that one of the salesmen at Horners in Manchester had one.

One test drive and I was hooked, hopefully it'll turn up before Christmas

I wouldn't go near remapping a vRS 170 just yet, the DPF is going to cause some headaches, I reckon.

You'll love the TDi, I've got one and I nearly trip over in the morning when I'm getting dressed for work so I can drive the car

Dave.

Hi Dodgy

I bought a VRS Estate and love it however I have a slight judder when accelerating from beneath 1500rpm - have you had any similar experiences?

What mpg are you getting? I rarely get above 40 even when driving carefully - sometimes get 50 in heavy mway traffic....

John

Traffic light sprints.....all well and good, but ?!?

I think if I was in the market for a 'new' car for myself I would go for the vRS Tdi and have it remapped and reworked. There is nothing like a good bit of torque when overtaking and diesels are excellent for that. My Scout Tdi (46 miles on the clock now) is a shade over 10 seconds 0-60 but in gear is much quicker. Can't push it too much at the moment as I still have another 554 miles of light driving to do

The more I drive it, the more I feel like a vRS is on the cards for a replacement for mine when the time comes.

Just my 2p.

Regards

Mark

...... however I have a slight judder when accelerating from beneath 1500rpm - have you had any similar experiences?

In my experience if you are trickling around in town and use a light throttle then 1000rpm to 1500rpm is no problem; but if you are in 4th/5th/6th and use a heavy throttle than there is a degree of judder.

I put it down to all the torque being produced putting a huge strain on the drivetrain with high gearing and, in the name of mechanical sympathy, either back off the throttle or change down a gear or two.

Don't bother with light assist if you get xenon's - nobody seems to ever turn them off!!

No matter what the conditions, these drivers are keen to ensure every other road user knows that they ticked the xenon box and could afford the extra

I'm currently 90% certain on changing my Mk1 VRs for a Mk2 TDi, but I'm having a nightmare actually finding a dealer that can give me a test drive of one to confirm my decision. I've even used the Skoda UK web site and had no reply to date.

I live in Warrington and work near Stoke and no dealers near those two locations have one, does anyone know of a dealer in Lancashire, Cheshire, NW etc that has one for a test drive?

Have you tried Mitchells Skoda , at Cheshire Oaks near Chester. 0151 347 5555.

www.mitchelgroup.co.uk

Regards,

Bob.

Have you tried Mitchells Skoda , at Cheshire Oaks near Chester. 0151 347 5555.

Their website lists 3 vRS TDi used cars for sale - 2 hatchbacks and an estate.

ok, so what are the options to look out for, and what are the ones that arnt worth bothering with?

I’ve had mine for 3 weeks and bought the plus pack ( electric windows, jumbo box and dual zone climate control ) as an extra.

I haven’t used the rear electric windows other then to try them out. This I did last week after the frost and both were frozen shut ( but the front ones weren’t ).

The jumbo box can be used as an arm rest. I’m 5ft 10in and this is not quite big enough to allow me to comfortably rest my left arm on the box with my right arm on the mid level switch cluster pod on the drivers door. The AUX in would be handy if you couldn’t put MP3’s onto a CD. If you can, the MP3 compatible player ( but only the head unit, not the 6 CD auto changer in the boot ) is much better as it displays artist/album/track info on the large LCD screen and the head unit takes data directly from a disc rather than via the MP3 player, 2 connections and a few feet of cables. The jumbo box can draw air from the ventilation system so you can keep a drink warmer ( by a few degrees due to confinement ) in here than if it were outside of the box – can’t think why I’d want to do this !

So, I’m not convinced that these were worth the extra, however the dual zone heater and air con is something else. It has eliminated squabbling between the driver ( usually me ) and the front seat passenger who invariably wants the temperature at least 10 degrees higher. It’s difficult to put a value on peace and good relations with your mum/partner/daughter/female colleague and I’d rate this extra as invaluable.

So far I really like the car but I wonder if the designers ever thought that it would be driven on UK roads. For me, most of the rewarding performance can only be unlocked when you’re moving faster than the legal speed limit ie. gently pressing the accelerator in 4th, 5th or 6th starting off with the engine revs in the 2500-3000 range. The whoosh of the air as the aerodynamic drag takes over as the main form of resistance, the whistle of the turbo and the masculine boom of the engine is a pleasure to behold, then you check the speedometer and realise that, if caught, you’d be on a 3 month driving ban. Of course, the torque also gets you to 60 quickly but to do this economically and quietly ( and at the same pace as traffic around you ) it’s better to change up early and use the low down torque to provide a punch at each change – which can be done just as well with the 140 engine.

If you’ve owned or driven a ‘sports car’ and would like to combine that sort of performance with the fuel economy and convenience of a family hatchback or estate, then this is a great car. With 3 weeks of hindsight and never having owned, or wanted to own, a sports car I find myself thinking I might have made the wrong choice. But then I go back to the test drive of the 140, followed a year later by a test in the VRS. What impressed me the most about the VRS was the handling, grip and braking which were in a different league to all other cars I’d driven. I suppose I will just have to learn restraint and keep an eye on the speedo.

These are my first impressions for what they’re worth.

The jumbo box can be used as an arm rest. I

The jumbo box can be used as an arm rest. I

Can I ask a stupid question?!

While I understand the concept of dual zone, surely the cabin is so small that each zone is fighting for its own temperature - can it really be that clever not to be influenced by the other side? Esp if one is set so much warmer than the other? Can you really tell the difference in temp for each side? If so, I agree, my g/f is gonna love it!

I think the most you can expect is a 3 degree of heat difference, which obviously at some point somewhere over the gearstick is exactly the same

But as a psychological tool to convince your partner, mother in law or whoever, is very effective.

Dave.

I think the most you can expect is a 3 degree of heat difference, which obviously at some point somewhere over the gearstick is exactly the same

But as a psychological tool to convince your partner, mother in law or whoever, is very effective.

Dave.

It will allow you to set a max 2 degC difference between driver and passenger; sufficient IMHO to keep both parties happy.

Sounds ideal for me then, as I like a cool cab ~19 deg whereas the wife likes a more tropical 21 deg

Their website lists 3 vRS TDi used cars for sale - 2 hatchbacks and an estate.

Have you tried Mitchells Skoda , at Cheshire Oaks near Chester. 0151 347 5555.

www.mitchelgroup.co.uk

Regards,

Bob.

Ta. Horners in Manchester had one, but Mitchells would have been my next phone call if they hadn't. TDi is currently on order through Horners so no need to look anymore

Can I ask a stupid question?!

While I understand the concept of dual zone, surely the cabin is so small that each zone is fighting for its own temperature - can it really be that clever not to be influenced by the other side? Esp if one is set so much warmer than the other? Can you really tell the difference in temp for each side? If so, I agree, my g/f is gonna love it!

Sorry, I should have qualified the claim about the 10 degree difference. Mixing of the two sides will reduce the difference in temperature but it is possible to select a greater difference than 10 degrees ( according to the LCD temp. displays ) which would help achieve the desired difference. Each side can be set independently within the range 16 to 29.5 degrees. I’ve felt the different temperatures on the two sides with my hand and they seem about right. In fact ‘low’ ( lowest possible temperature – varies with ambient and depends on whether aircon pump is on ) can be set on one side and ‘high’ ( max possible temperature achievable by heater – varies with engine coolant temperature ) on the other side which will provide an even greater difference in output temperatures.

The bottom line is that I can be cool whilst herself is toasty ( tested on a day when the outside temp was 5 degrees with aircon pump off ).

Sorry, I should have qualified the claim about the 10 degree difference. Mixing of the two sides will reduce the difference in temperature but it is possible to select a greater difference than 10 degrees ( according to the LCD temp. displays ) which would help achieve the desired difference. Each side can be set independently within the range 16 to 29.5 degrees. I

Buy the TDI. Forget first gear, and learn to use the torque in the rest. Struggles to put it all down in second in the wet, and chipping would exagerate this further. 12k no major issues, and it suprises/scares everyone who rides with me. DPF will only be an issue if you never leave the city. Good spirited drive will sort it out. Good luck. Light Assist!!!!! Save your money!!!! I regret not having xeons and maxidot so go for them.

Buy the TDI. Forget first gear, and learn to use the torque in the rest. Struggles to put it all down in second in the wet, and chipping would exagerate this further. 12k no major issues, and it suprises/scares everyone who rides with me. DPF will only be an issue if you never leave the city. Good spirited drive will sort it out. Good luck. Light Assist!!!!! Save your money!!!! I regret not having xeons and maxidot so go for them.

Should learn to read all the pages before replying - Still new in here - I'll try to keep up in future!

In my experience if you are trickling around in town and use a light throttle then 1000rpm to 1500rpm is no problem; but if you are in 4th/5th/6th and use a heavy throttle than there is a degree of judder.

I put it down to all the torque being produced putting a huge strain on the drivetrain with high gearing and, in the name of mechanical sympathy, either back off the throttle or change down a gear or two.

12k on my TDI and I have the same judder. You learn to drive around it as above but my stealer rekons he can cure it at the first service! Will keep you posted