man its moving fast now.

you got an un-suspecting victim to put this beast in yet???

no not yet, i did buy a felicia, but i sold it again because it was too good to spoil. going to buy another one very very soon

sweet. mk1 or mk2?

i think a mk1 would be nice.

yeah, i think so too... styling isn't something i've put much thought into, i dont do big spoilers and other crap like that.... i'm thinking black plastic bumpers and steel wheels at the moment

maybe 15" steels with octty hubcaps????? get abit more rubber on the road that way, without it looking to differant 195/45/15 ????????

Yeah look inconspicuous (however you spell it!) and then blast them away!

street sleeper style

i like the idea of octy hub caps.

not sure what size the wheels will be yet till i've made a final choice of which brake discs i will be using, it's a choice of 280mm or 256mm discs at the moment. i'm thinking about using the 256mm ones because they are a lot cheaper

it appears that finding brake discs isn't going to be as easy as i first thought.

the hole in the centre of the disc that mounts onto the hub is 65mm on vw discs and the disc mounting hub diamter is 62mm on the felicia hub.... i've also dicovered that many of the early astra's/cavaliers have a 60mm hub and they also have the same stud pattern, so what i may have to do is buy vauxhall discs then open up the inner bore to 62mm on a lathe

sounds like a plan to me.

or even alfa romeo discs, they have 58/59mm bore :confused:

edit: nope, they have 98mm pcd measurement

the camshaft is here

this is the VPHBP285H 'ultimate road' cam, 268 degrees duration, 108 degrees lobe centre angle, 10.87mm lift.......

i dont see what's so ultimate, looks like a camshaft to me

to my mind the cam is fairly mild, should give a nice dose of mid range grunt, and plenty of higher rpm poke. the low rpm torque may suffer a bit tho

next step, fitting hydraulic lifters.

click here for a detailed description of how hydraulic lifters work

make sure they are spotlessly clean, then liberally oil them with clean engine oil, also oil the bearers in which the cam sits

thouroughly degrease the camshaft before fitting, be very carefull when tightening the bearers down, work progressively from the centre outwards turning each nut half a tunr at a time, BE WARNED!!! i have snapped brand new camshafts in the past by doing this wrong

put a smear of instant gasket or silicon sealant on the end caps to prevent oil escaping out of the end of the cam. next step is to coat the lobes so they are swimming in oil, then fit the bolt to the end of the cam and turn it over a few times to make sure it's not jammed(it does happen )

next job is totally cover all the cam lobes and lifter faces with prelube... which isn't supplied ith the cam piper wanted like

new rotor arm and distributor cap on.....

there aren't too many more things i need for the engine now

1)lambda probe

2)HT leads

3)vernier camshaft pulley

4) velocity stack / intake trumpets & filter/s

5) clutch

6) a few bolts

also waiting for a throttle linkage from germany which should be here in a couple of days

nice work.

would look better with a polished cover mind. he he he !!!!!!!!!!!!

nice work.

would look better with a polished cover mind. he he he !!!!!!!!!!!!

i've still got a spare one here if you want it pinks;)

Great work! Is this thing going to a streetleagal car? (I don't know how much hp you can add in the UK to keep it streetleagal..) I almost bought a small turbo for my 1,3mpi, but decided to drop it and keep this one stock. With the work you've done to the motor, I bet it could handle a small turbo or a supercharger easily, if you don't go nuts with boost.

yeah it will all be street legal, i'm not going to be using forced induction on this at all, this is going to stay naturally aspirated, but to be honest i do allready have the next project in mind and i may allready have a few parts lying about for it allready, and it may involve some type of turbo/supercharging;)

as far as I know there is no limit to what you want to do with any vechicle

BHP wise in the UK.

just tell the relavent people like, insurance companies and dvla.

street legal on steelies-the ultimate scooby frightener

big thankyou to boys and girls at jkm in portsmouth for sourcing one of these for me

it's a sensor which goes on the end of the throttle spindle which tells the ecu how far open the throttles are and hence how much load the engine is under

big thankyou to boys and girls at jkm in portsmouth for sourcing one of these for me

it's a sensor which goes on the end of the throttle spindle which tells the ecu how far open the throttles are and hence how much load the engine is under

Can I ask, does it interface easily with the ECU to allow richer running when the engine is cold? ie the TB's are open slightly less?

also, how do you intend ensuring that all teh TB's are operating at the same angle?surely each cyl will be slightly different in setup ?

that's one of the downsides to this type of setup... google alpha-n to have a looksee...

the emerald ecu uses the coolant sensor to enrich or leaken the fueling based on temperature like most other ecu's... the fueling isn't affected by how far open the throttles are. the is a kind of secondary map for correcting the fueling based on temp, and a few others as well such as boost pressure on turbocharged engines

there is a special adjustable linkage in between the throttle pairs which adjusts the relative position from each other, so it's just a case of using a 5mm allen key to turn a screw which balances one against the other, same thing applied to the base idle speed (thorttle home position), there's another screw which acts against the primary lever in the same way which can be adjusted....

i will try to get a pic of it to explain it better