that's one of the downsides to this type of setup... google alpha-n to have a looksee...

the emerald ecu uses the coolant sensor to enrich or leaken the fueling based on temperature like most other ecu's... the fueling isn't affected by how far open the throttles are. the is a kind of secondary map for correcting the fueling based on temp, and a few others as well such as boost pressure on turbocharged engines

there is a special adjustable linkage in between the throttle pairs which adjusts the relative position from each other, so it's just a case of using a 5mm allen key to turn a screw which balances one against the other, same thing applied to the base idle speed (thorttle home position), there's another screw which acts against the primary lever in the same way which can be adjusted....

i will try to get a pic of it to explain it better

I comprehend, sounds like a suitable route round the obstacle..

Reason I asked was that you said its gonna be a road car, so I could see fun if you had to give it loads of beans to get it warmed up....

here you go

the red arrow points to the left right balance adjuster

blue is the idle speed/throttle stop adjuster

yellow is where the throttle linkage pushes down on the primary lever

Do you adjust these with an airflow meter like twin Webers?

Reminds me of the old days and my RS2000:

And the noise . . . I just had a small Janspeed 2" with tubular fanimold. It was pretty quiet until you opened the carbs and they started to sing. Luvverly jubberly

Can't wait to see yours all finished.

the best way to adjust them is to listening with a stephoscope untill they sound the same, but throttle bodies aren't as sensitive as webber or dellorto carbs and you can normally just 'get away' with doing it be sight

the best way to adjust them is to listening with a stephoscope . . .

Is there a doctor on the forum?

Is there a doctor on the forum?

:rofl:

ordered one of these babies from germany

it's called a vernier pulley, it allows the precise advancing or retarding of the camshaft timing in relation to the crankshaft, generally speaking, advancing the camshaft by a few degrees will give more low rpm torque but for the time being i will install it in the 'straight up' 0 position (when it arrives )

ordered one of these babies from germany

it's called a vernier pulley, it allows the precise advancing or retarding of the camshaft timing in relation to the crankshaft, generally speaking, advancing the camshaft by a few degrees will give more low rpm torque but for the time being i will install it in the 'straight up' 0 position (when it arrives )

Just to add- often used if the head has been skimmed sufficiently to alter the distance crank to cam-allows a return to stock timing.

Looks awesome:thumbup:

a ford mondeo fuel pressure regulator which operates at 2.7 bars, cost me

steal of a deal. whats left to be done????????

steal of a deal. whats left to be done????????

need to order in a set of HT leads... i'm looking at getting the magnecor KV85 ones, normally i wouldn't bother with 'rubbish' like that but they are only

started seriously thining about the front big brake conversion today.

got a pair of new wheel bearings in... they also come supplied with a new snap ring

next i stripped down the bearing carrier/hub assembly and removed the bearings..

degreased and cleaned them.

the very first thing to consider with a brake conversion like this is what discs are going to be used.

A) this is the spigot on which the wheel sits's on and this is 57.1mm

is the part where the brake disc locates, this has a diamter of 62mm

C) is the part which presses into the wheel bearing

this presents a slight difficulty in finding suitable discs to use for a big brake conversion because all the vw hubs/discs have a 65mm mounting spigot rather than the 62mm used on the felicia

57.1mm?

BMW e30 front discs for the 325i are 57.1mm inner bore with a 280mm diameter, vented and drilled at 4x100mm PCD....

All good progress Tom - enjoying the thread!

The AEE is probably the engine I'm most familiar with having done quite a bit to the Polo I had...

Why use the end casing from a Polo and not the Felicia?

And atleast polish up the rocker cover!

And at least polish up the rocker cover!

i think that might all be in hand!

Why use the end casing from a Polo and not the Felicia?

:confused: i'm using the felicia one.... if i've said that i'm using the polo one i must have written it wrong or something.... deffinately using the skoda one

i think that might all be in hand!

57.1mm?

BMW e30 front discs for the 325i are 57.1mm inner bore with a 280mm diameter, vented and drilled at 4x100mm PCD....

i've checked this out woody, it appears that the e30 discs have a 66mm bore and a 260mm diameter... unless of course my tech data is wrong...

i've checked this out woody, it appears that the e30 discs have a 66mm bore and a 260mm diameter... unless of course my tech data is wrong...

you probably know better than I...given you have data:rofl: getting the bit that the wheel sits on mixed up with the disc locator

ah well, apologies for a trip up the garden path:thumbup:

also, given that the discs are located via the wheel nuts, could you not just use a "collar" of some description to take the bore out to 65mm or 66mm?

bascically a 3mm wide ring with interior dimension of 62mm?

it would centre the disc?or are there load and stress factors to consider that may preclude such an approach?

that's a good point well made, i've allready considered that approach and it would be difficult to manufacture a collar with those dimensions...

i've more or less decided to use corsa gsi (256mm x 20mm) discs with a 60mm bore.. i will turn down the hub on a lathe so the discs can be fitted without modifying them, which would make replacing them in the future more easy

that's a good point well made, i've allready considered that approach and it would be difficult to manufacture a collar with those dimensions...

i've more or less decided to use corsa gsi (256mm x 20mm) discs with a 60mm bore.. i will turn down the hub on a lathe so the discs can be fitted without modifying them, which would make replacing them in the future more easy

same idea different approach:D oly concern is could you not introduce a wobble if not turned down exactly?

same idea different approach:D oly concern is could you not introduce a wobble if not turned down exactly?

:uglyhamme it will be within 1/250th of a mm. i garantee it:)

:uglyhamme it will be within 1/250th of a mm. i garantee it:)

If your Lathing is anything like you're spelling, i'd be worried:rofl: