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Noise in fifth gear

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Just had the middle part of the exhaust replaced and on the way home i noticed that when i accelerate the engine makes a loud whiny noise this only happens in fifth gear and sounds like its coming from the drivers side.

Any thoughts on this ?

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  • OK, trial and error worked it out! The locking nut is on a bolt that needs to be removed from underneath the car with a ½ extension bar for the socket. The other bolt comes out from the top. Managed t

Don't use 5th, the gear retaining nut has come loose, continued use will strip the splines on the shaft and will be expensive. It is not a major job to fix and a new nut is about

  • 3 weeks later...

Following on from this, I can now say that my brothers car is now fixed. Was in at the skoda dealer on tuesday, cost him about

  • 11 months later...

How much torque to use when attaching this retaining nut?

cant be that much, as if you are removing it, it is because it has already come loose

i did this job the other week.

your gunna meed some big old spanners, i cant remember the sizes but i know you'll need some bigish ones for the drain plug and the 5th gear nut itself.

you'll also need a second jack, a trolly or bottle type will do. this is used to hold/lift/lower the gear box when you taking the gearbox mount off

once you have the mount/end cover off, you'll be able to see whitch one off not both of the nuts has come a-drift. the nuts cost

o yer and you'll need a bit of hose pipe attached to a funnal to fill the box again.

i use a syphon pump to do mine approx

good call tom

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all the help! :)

Took of the end cover today, only to find none of the nuts are lose :mad:

I have 5th gear whining, and it jumps out of gear, so I really thought this was it..

Guess I should get myself a new gearbox then.. Crap..

i expect the bearings are gone then

  • 7 months later...

Hi Pinksud

I'm new to the forum but like a challenge.

My daughters 5th gear is whining in her Felicia 1.6.

I'm presuming its the loose nut thing but where do you buy the replacement nuts and what would you ask for.

Thanks

Mike

  • 2 weeks later...

Just done this job too got the nuts from a skoda main dealer replaced both cost

Thanks for that Alex.

  • 2 weeks later...

Following on from the post I made earlier.

I can hear a low pitched noise in other gears not just fifth.

But it is very loud in fifth.

When I press the clutch pedal the noise goes away and when I slowly let the clutch up agaian it re-appears.

Just wondering if this is the clutch, the fith gear nut or a combination of the two.

A garage she went to to have a puncture repaired took it for a test drive and told her the bearing had gone and immediately told her he had a Gearbox for it.

Just seemed too quick to offer a gearbox for my liking.

Mike

The bearing diagnosis could be right, but I'd check the oil level before anything else.

Checked the oil level and that was ok.

She took it to another garage and they checked it out and said the clutch was at fault, not the gearbox, quoted her

That seems ok for the clutch, but you're doing all of "replace gearbox" except for installing the new box to change the clutch.

If you press the clutch down and the noise stops the problem is in the box and not the clutch. When you press the clutch you disengage the box from engine so the shafts in the box slow down (thats why if you wait a few seconds with the clutch down and engine running reverse gear selects without crunching because the shafts have slowed down) If the noise got worse when you press the clutch it would mean the clutch release bearing had worn.

All boxes have some noise when idling with the clutch up its the nature of the beast, best way is to compare with a known good car and see if the noise is excessive. Usually its the input shaft bearing that wears so a box strip and new bearing in order or fit a recon box.:(

  • 3 months later...

a bit random but i keep meaning to post this.

hi.

ok hear we go

1) jack up front passenger side, and remove the wheel.

2) remove the black sheetmetal stone guard thats hides the end of the gear box (only about 3 bodywork skrews)

3) remove gear box oil drain plug (be quick with a pot to catch the oil)

4) position the 2nd jack under the gear box

5) undo the gear box end engine mount. (note how it all comes apart, one of the bolts needs undoing from top and bottom)

6) now slowly lower the jack holding the gear box up, untill the can see all the bolts holding the gear box end cover on.

7) undo all the bolts holding the gear box end cover on, (evenly so it doesn't warp or any thing, note some are different lengths)

8) once the cover is off you should be able to see if the two large nuts are damaged or not.

9) if damaged remove and replace with new. peen the shoulder of the new nuts using the ball end of a small hammer, and a mallet. if not a punch or chisel will do.

10) replace end cover (you might want to use a little sealant but not essential)

11) using 2nd jack, lift box so engine mount is back in position, and re-secure the gear box end engine mount.

12) replace black sheetmetal stone guard and wheel

13) remove all jacks.

14) refill gearbox oil via the speedo drive at the back of the gear box, using a funnel and 2foot of garden hose

15) replace speedo drive and go for a test drive.

if the problem comes back then do it all again because the shoulder of the nut hasn't been peened enough

i hope this helps.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm confussled a bit here guys...

Mine has started to whine a bit in 5th gear so gonna tackle this me thinks.

Does this involve taking the actual gearbox off or is there a cover or something?

Thanks

the box stays on the engine on the car, its just a case of whipping off an engine mount and dropping the engine an gear box down on a bit of a tilt to you can get to the cover on the end

Is there a torque setting to be considered for the nuts going on ? Giving it a go on Saturday :)

Well got me 5th gear retaining nuts today as they carry them in stock.

Came to just over

the spindle the nut threads on to has a key way in it. the shoulder of the nut (bit thats round not hex) needs to be "peaned" into the keyway to stop the nut from turning.

Firstly a big big thank you to Pinkskud for all your help and support, was my first real car repair beyond topping up oil. Fixed my 5th gear nut today and replaced the 1.5 litres (normal?) of nasty dark brown oil with some clean 2.5 litres. Just a few notes - firstly it wasn't immediately obvious to me the nut was broken as there was no cracks or breaks in the nut however the peened sides of the nut had rotated and were on the normal shaft and the place where it should be peened there was nothing.

Also I took some photo's to help other people doing this in future.

http://rob.themediapage.com/RobsFiles/_images/Car/Exploded_5th_Gear_[800x600].JPG

http://rob.themediapage.com/RobsFiles/_images/Car/Added_Ex_Diag_%20labels_[800x600].JPG

http://rob.themediapage.com/RobsFiles/_images/Car/Gearbox_Mount_[800x600].JPG

http://rob.themediapage.com/RobsFiles/_images/Car/Gearbox_Lowered_[800x600].JPG

http://rob.themediapage.com/RobsFiles/_images/Car/End_Casing_[800x600].JPG

http://rob.themediapage.com/RobsFiles/_images/Car/End_Casing_Off_[800x600].JPG

EDIT : Also as far as torque settings go, they are listed on the top 2 links, it will either be 60 Nm or 100Nm, in my 1.3MPi 1999 both nuts are 60Nm

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