Been browsing the net & trying to spend money I haven't yet earned, came across this carb upgrade Weber Carburettor Specialist, Weber Authorised Dealer, Fastroadcars, Weber Carbs, Fuel Accessories, Fastroadcars - WEBER 30 BDIC CARB KIT SKODA ESTELLE/RAPID 120/130/136 will it be any good, found another page suggesting either 26/28 DCD or 32/36 DGAV but can't find anywhere to get a inlet manifold from.

I also think the exhaust manifold is loosing me power & have seen on a couple of pictures what looks like a 4-2-1 tubular exhaust manifold, but cannot find anywhere that sells them has anyone any ideas?

Cheers

Alan...

That carb will be an improvement over a worn jikov, though power output will only be marginal over a well set up jikov as it was made as a direct replacement. Ive fitted a couple of them over the years, and they are a reliable carb as long as you use an inline filter

Having said that i know someone who has a 2 litre pinto running on a jikov from a rapid

The exhaust you want is an Ashley system

Looks like there is quite a few 26/28 DCD or 32/36 DGAV around on ebay as mentioned in this article Tuning Skoda Estelles and other wastes of time... but whether a manifold is available or not is the question & are they going to be any better than the new one I posted.

Alan...

Just rung Ashley exhausts of Walsaw they don't do a manifold but do a replacement system that fits existing manifold, have I go the right people?

Alan...

That carb will be an improvement over a worn jikov, though power output will only be marginal over a well set up jikov as it was made as a direct replacement. Ive fitted a couple of them over the years, and they are a reliable carb as long as you use an inline filter

Having said that i know someone who has a 2 litre pinto running on a jikov from a rapid

The exhaust you want is an Ashley system

hy rigsby, i've been looking on Carburetor information since i found that mine is the reason i dont have torque, and have bad FE

can you tell me what do you mean when you say "Worn" and can you tell me points of reference to "set up well the Jikov"

maybe i can fix mine (hopefully) and get my Torque and FE back, and if no go on that one, what is the carb you recommend to replace it and get better performance and FE

thnks

The standard maniofold isnt that bad......but if youre desperate to replace it then there isnt anywhere in this country that does one....although quite a few people have had 'one offs' made up for them. Ashley only sell the exhaust system.

This lot will sell you a manifold (at a price). Speedpro Rally Bazar competition obchod

Dont bother ringing them.....they dont really speak English (I rang them a couple of times......waste of a phonecall), but they sometimes answer emails and Ive bought a set of lowering springs from them.

As for carburation......I am currently converting to bike carbs.....thats the way forward if you want good power and response.

Tonny, worn is just general wear and tear, like in the bushes around the throttle spindles, that degenerates into minor air leaks and can't be compensated out, wear in the linkages, in extreme cases wear in the moving jet assemblies... You get the general idea?

On a 1.3 I'd use something like the 30 BDIC or a DCD as per the OP. I'd not use the DGAV because that flows air for a 3.0l engine!

The Weber "direct replacement" range included manifold, throttle linkage, air filter adapters, and a choke cable if required; in short everything you needed to install the new Weber carb except the intak manifold and air filter!

No idea if they ever did a kit for the Favorit (but that would almost certainly be what you'd need). With the £ being down the toilet, check out Welcome to WEBCON UK Ltd , and take it from there.

ive had loads of carbs on my estelle,,,,you can run a 40dfi/dfav---38dgms/dgas----36dcd 32/36dgv/dgav--32dir/dgv--28/36dcd---

the biggest carbs obviously gave it loads of top end shove,,,but were poor on fuel (the standard jetting of a 3 litre carb is near enough to run ok on even a 1.3 as i found out from trials because even a 38 is about right compared to the twin 40 weber setups that are available

a 32/36 of any flavour is a good all round carb,,,,the standard jetting of a 1.7 v4 i found gave exactly the correct mixture for the 136,,,,and again when the secondary came in it had a healthy kick above 3000rpm

avoid dtml 32/34 and 28/30 carbs they dont fit the standard inlet manifold and are rubbishwhen heated by the exhaust (they are normaly found on crossflow type engines)

Tonny, worn is just general wear and tear, like in the bushes around the throttle spindles, that degenerates into minor air leaks and can't be compensated out, wear in the linkages, in extreme cases wear in the moving jet assemblies... You get the general idea?

On a 1.3 I'd use something like the 30 BDIC or a DCD as per the OP. I'd not use the DGAV because that flows air for a 3.0l engine!

The Weber "direct replacement" range included manifold, throttle linkage, air filter adapters, and a choke cable if required; in short everything you needed to install the new Weber carb except the intak manifold and air filter!

No idea if they ever did a kit for the Favorit (but that would almost certainly be what you'd need). With the £ being down the toilet, check out Welcome to WEBCON UK Ltd , and take it from there.

thanks O'Neil;

i'm kinda p.o. now, i was talking to a mate of mine talking about the engine and how cool it is and the economy problem i have and he went of saying that since the engine is 8 years old i should expect the same FE.(kinda made me mad cus i kinda have a bond with skoda and felt he was trampling on my feli) O.k. i kinda know tha if it happens it just mean you need to tune it up, clean something, change something, but if the engine is kept good, it should always give you the same power and FE (i mena, some bug engines from 62 are still going strong)

but it is 8 years old, and i was thinking it could be enough fot the little Jikov... what you guys think

i cleaned every port jet, inside and out (with a partial disasembly) using carb cleaner, gas and patience... now it does feel diferent, but still, low torque, and low FE it does feel like an air leak, so i checked the PCV system, the brake servo line the vacuum hoses and all are ok, so its eyther a seal, the manifold, or its just the jikov signing off.

i'm definetly going to take the time to take it to the dyno and do 1500(transfer and idle), 2500(transfer) and 60 mph @ 5 readings(main jet) to confirm the problem, as well as a full rpm sweep, hopefully they have a sensor for emision to check CO and HC outputs (that can give me a great clue)

if they have the option i'll keep a bitmap and post it ()

does anybody know what i should be expecting from the 1289cc 8v engine graph to look like?

thanks for the input, and i would like your opinion and experience... if it come to needing a replacement, what is the Carburetor YOU think is the best and what should i expect From that (the one you recommend) compared to the jikov in terms of FE and Torque

i would really love to hear what you and Rigsby have to say since i don't know much i think i can benefit from it...

just so you know, i'm looking for Fuel Economy first (something that can give me the 40-45 mph and torque second, i don't care much for HP since top speed is not something i use that much... but i really would like great torque untill 3200 rpm (thats my limit, never push it above that)

thanks guys

Edited 6 February, 200917 yr by Cepheuz

Well I can tell you how to check for wear in the spindles at least. This can even be done with the carn still on the engine in some cases. Try to turn the butterfly like you would if you were trying to scribe a line round the venturi with it. If it moves discernably, you almost certainly have enough wear to have uncontrolled air leaking round the spindle.

In this case some carbs can be rebuilt using bushes on the spindles, but I've no idea if a relevant rebuild kit is even available for a Jikov.

Well I can tell you how to check for wear in the spindles at least. This can even be done with the carn still on the engine in some cases. Try to turn the butterfly like you would if you were trying to scribe a line round the venturi with it. If it moves discernably, you almost certainly have enough wear to have uncontrolled air leaking round the spindle.

In this case some carbs can be rebuilt using bushes on the spindles, but I've no idea if a relevant rebuild kit is even available for a Jikov.

i'm just waitting for a opening to get the carburetor fix by a guy that has a shop that specializes in carburetors, people swear by him, they say that if a car gives you 30 mpg he can tune the carb so good it will give you 34 mpg

i'm just going to use him for the carb rebiult, tuning will be done by me in the dyno with the corresponding OC HC NOx sensor and the car dyno monitoring power output (since everything is stock, i cant make more power than the specs and if i do, is not by much and it would be a clear sign that the carb is ok)

can anyone give me an idea or a graph of power output , at least the max torque and max hp @ what rpm (both)?

10 to 13% is a realistic improvement for a really good set-up on a carburetor car. Just make sure that if he want to change timing or plug gaps that he gives you a note of his final settings.

10 to 13% is a realistic improvement for a really good set-up on a carburetor car. Just make sure that if he want to change timing or plug gaps that he gives you a note of his final settings.

i'm sorry, i kinda got lost, what is it that give a 10-13% improvement on a carburator, and when you say improvemet, what do you mean, FE, Horsepower, or torque?

if its 10-13% FE its exelent, if its torque, is enough to be felt, if its hp, is not so much

(edit) well, depending on what it is and how much time a work is required

Any or all of them. I know of cases where someone got 10% more power on a dyno, but they didn't use it, and it became 10% better economy.

Any or all of them. I know of cases where someone got 10% more power on a dyno, but they didn't use it, and it became 10% better economy.

ok, so what is it that give you 10-13% more???

from what i read on the internet a turbo increases horsepower, a little torque, but reduce FE (due to the added fuel burnt in boost) over a range of rpm, i dont know exactly what is the starting rpm where the boost is engaged but i bet is something above 2-3k (where people normaly shift, if they follow the green in the tak of the felicia) so below that no boost, nor added fuel comsumtion, above that. good increase in speed, a little more fuel used

that's why i dont think is a good idea, a least for daily driver car cus youre not gona be using it and the cost of putting it in (and is mayor surgery to bolt a turbo in)

beltdrive turbochargers are supposed to increase more torque at lower rpm where whe would use it, and it becomes less and less eficient as rpm

in my opinion if you have more torque you would accelerate faster and you would have to spare on coast, so it would increase FE, since your optimizing the torque where you use it i belive is the best choice...

but that just a day on surfing in the net, i know is different in practice

When you buy a new car, the carburetor etc (or EMS maps) are set up with a generalised set of settings (physical or logical) that will work with any engine of that specific type.

By playing around with these settings you can achieve a setup that is more closely matched to the specific requirements of an individual engine, and that is basically why a really good mechanic with a bag of spare jets (or someone who can re-write the EMS maps) can achieve 10% better performance from any non-turbo engine.

When you buy a new car, the carburetor etc (or EMS maps) are set up with a generalised set of settings (physical or logical) that will work with any engine of that specific type.

By playing around with these settings you can achieve a setup that is more closely matched to the specific requirements of an individual engine, and that is basically why a really good mechanic with a bag of spare jets (or someone who can re-write the EMS maps) can achieve 10% better performance from any non-turbo engine.

holy (beep) then i'm not going to delay and going to pay him a visit, i mean, felicias are rated to get 40-45 mpg (imperial) with a 10% gain it would be 44-49.5 mpg that sound just great!!! and wile he dismounts and tune the carb i can take a look at the manifold, make sure í dont have any small crack or things like that

will take note of everything

Well I can't believe I started this post 19 years ago & here I am back again, I sold the car a year after the initial post, then I bought it back last year. In the intervening years somebosy has fitted a Weber card, but I'm having difficulty in identifying it. It has 24-21 stamped on it, what I suspect is a serial number W450309 but I can't find a model number. It does run, but I can't get it to idle properly, I was hoping to get a repair kit for it, as some of the rubber sealing rings have perished & there's a diaphram which looks a bit suspect.

Alan.

This is the carb if somebody recognises it

Other than a FoMoCo I've never had Weber (not that I know much about carbs and then only SU) see if one of the chaps below is able and willing to identify it (these guys tend to be at shows I think).

https://weber-carbs.co.uk/

https://classiccarbs.co.uk/

https://www.webcon.co.uk/

I have dealt with Eurocarb once and they seemed fine. - (Eurocarb) - https://www.dellorto.co.uk/

HTH.

On 04/03/2026 at 20:31, Bugrat said:

This is the carb if somebody recognises it

That is the Weber 30BDIC weber replacement carb

39 minutes ago, Kieranzxt said:

That is the Weber 30BDIC weber replacement carb

Thank you for that I'm still struggling to get a rebuild kit and a suitable air filter

Are these out of stock or something then? Could a different model air filter be adapted to fit?

https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/30-bdic-dic-service-kit/

https://www.webcon.co.uk/products/7024-30-bdicdic-service-kit/

Another air filter adaption possibility? - https://www.carbuilder.com/

45 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Are these out of stock or something then? Could a different model air filter be adapted to fit?

https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/30-bdic-dic-service-kit/

https://www.webcon.co.uk/products/7024-30-bdicdic-service-kit/

That is bizarre as I checked when you last posted them & couldn't find any, maybe the AI fairy's put them there when my back was turned, little barstools that they are.