numskull
FREEDOM
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Correct. It was 6 months as a standard fit on the L&K (ours has it as it was built it Jan / Feb 2016) then it was an ÂŁ850 option. It was last shown as available in the July 2016 brochure.
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Nope. No good. Hasn’t got a telly….
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Trust me. From 2006, I had a MKI 140 and then a MKII 170 in 2011 until I bought the 280 in 2020. Give it a week and you won’t miss the diesel thump, as the 280 is, as Gav says, a different animal. Unless you’ve driven a truly fast car, you will not believe how fast the car accelerates. I do very short (2 miles each way) commute and I get around 24mpg. On a long run (Surbiton to Liverpool) without too many explosive accelerations, I’ve got 39mpg which, in our case for a 330bhp car, is great and on shorter “long” runs 32-36. Even when (well hope) the lunatic Trump pointless war is over, we all know that fuel prices are not going to return to the prices a year ago, so they’ll reduce but the Petrol/Diesel price difference will remain.
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Dealer / specialist job. They’ll know the workarounds without breaking anything. I had this happen in 2020, two months after getting the car when it went in for warranty work. The cable had slipped somewhere, the handle had zero tension and neither side would open. The dealer had it open and fixed in 30 mins with nothing broken at all. Oddly it wasn’t covered by warranty….🙄
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Re the clogged rear wash. Lift up the plastic cover on end of the wiper arm and remove the plastic spray head from the top of rear wash discharge tube; it’s on tight but it will come off. Get a 16cm (6in) length of thin welding rod and push this gently down the tube til you reach the bottom and gently twist it whilst moving it up and down. That should clear the crystallised screen wash which is clogging the outlet. Leave the spray head off and engage the wash cycle and hopefully you should have a 2m jet of washer fluid flying out of the tube! If not, repeat the cleaning process. Also, I suggest you put the detached head in a solution of kettle descaler (citric acid) to descale the jets before you refit it to the discharge tube.
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@BKRacing Just out of interest, did the seller declare to you that it was a Cat N or S insurance write-off?
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Great car I hear. Enjoy.
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NOW SOLD
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@GREEBO_22 Thanks very much for that; I didn’t know that was an option and I’m sure many others didn’t either. 🙏 This was user error at the time and I’ve now sourced the correct pads at a cheaper price than Autodoc from Spareto in Estonia. They have very good feedback on Trustpilot. We’ll see how that turns out.
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Thanks. I’ll PM you, Keith. 👍🏻
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Hi Keith, You have double-checked they will fit your car? If so, great. I can send via Evri. Cost will be around £6 I think. You can pay on PayPal? Let me know if that works for you. Cheers… Rob
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True and I’ve fitted those “CANbus friendly guaranteed not to trip a warning” in the past and of course they’ve still caused the same issue and, TBH, I’m not prepared to pay the £35-odd difference for the ones at Kopeck to stop an occasional “bong” when the glovebox is opened. I know, I can’t help it! Yep, those’ll be the one I have and still have the same issue. 🙄 Yep, I live with that too!
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Title says it all. I ordered these back in April and went to have them fitted on Friday only to discover that… A. They’re the wrong ones, and B. Autodoc only give you 14 days from date of receipt to return them. Thanks very much for that. 🙄They cost me £90 and selling for 1/2 price, so £45. These give better braking power and produce almost zero dust which is primarily why I wanted to change from the standard pads, as I’m sick of cleaning the alloys! The ATE part number is 13.0470-2785.2. They will fit Skoda and VAG vehicles including some Superb builds with the following OE part numbers. Apologies for the weird formatting… 8V0 698 151 S 5Q0 698 151 5Q0 698 151 A 5Q0 698 151 AD BVO 698 151 B 5QO 698 151 D 500 698 151 AA 5Q0 698 151 AH 5Q0 698 151 AF 8V0 698 151 G
