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What cone filters do you have or suggest? MK1 VRS


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I think the above is the safest way really. Sort of the best of both world.

When I fitted my cone in a box filter, I removed the air box and cleaned it all alongwith the cold air feed, hopefully the airbox will help keep a lot of the dirty away from the filter.

Could also have a small filter at the very front of the intake to help but it's just over kill.

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I have a cone in the box oiled filter are you suggesting I swap it out ?

 

If you're asking my advice, then yes, change it to a dry paper S2000 element rather than an oily J-cloth, I guarantee you won't lose any powah at all.

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I was looking at a s2000 before the cone in abox but it came up cheap so I thought I would try it due to avoiding heat soak

The bit I don't understand is why would someone produce a product that is potentially damaging to the turbo

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Might serve no purpose to the thread, but I read a review on here, backed up by logs of a pd100 that lost power using the s2000 filter.

K&n do look smart though. The polished end cap will go well in your engine bay :)

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I was looking at a s2000 before the cone in abox but it came up cheap so I thought I would try it due to avoiding heat soak

The bit I don't understand is why would someone produce a product that is potentially damaging to the turbo

 

Because they make an obscene amount of profit from oily J-cloths by telling you they make MOAR POWAH!

 

And you believe them.

 

To be fair, a N/A engine can tolerate much dirtier air than a turbo can because that airflow is moving much slower, is being divided up between the cylinders, is hitting the back of hardened steel valve heads before being blown up and spat out of the exhaust. K&N still makes most of its money from N/A applications in the USA where they still use 1950's technology for performance engines.

 

In a turbo engine ALL the airflow is being blown into the face of a very thin alloy impeller with knife-edged vanes which is spinning at up to 100,000 RPM, imagine chucking a handful of grit in a blender to get the idea.

Even tiny particles moving at these very high speeds erode the sharp edges of the impeller vanes and make them rounded and blunt, this means you very gradually lose boost over many thousands of miles of use before eventually the impeller starts to sound like a siren due to cavitation, by this time you'll have lost a lot of power and the car will be noticeably slower, if you ignore the siren song then your impeller is likely to burst because the erosion has weakened it so much that it can't cope with the RPM any more, at this point your engine will stop and your bank manager will get cross.

 

Turbo engines need very clean air if they are to be reliable because all turbo impellers are made from aluminium alloy which is very soft. This isn't rocket science.

 

You pays your money and you makes your choice.

 

Edit: There are very good technical reasons why cone filters and velocity stacks improve the performance of N/A engines carefully designed to take advantage of their benefits, engines like the Honda F20C for example. These benefits do not make any difference to turbo applications, the only criteria for a good turbo air filter is that it flows enough air and filters very efficiently, shape doesn't matter at all and cold air feed is far less significant than people think it is.

Edited by sepulchrave
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Might serve no purpose to the thread, but I read a review on here, backed up by logs of a pd100 that lost power using the s2000 filter.

K&n do look smart though. The polished end cap will go well in your engine bay :)

i agree mate

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Guys, yes I am new to Briskoda but I am Older and wiser therefore suggest that unless you intend to do the Dakar fit the cone filter.

 

In my opinion you will surely not encounter such environmental conditions driving around the uk?

 

P.S. 

 

Getting rid of the old panel filter and the housing for it to clear some stuff out of the engine bay, Can anyone suggest a nice cone filter???

 

Skodalad, If you want to sell your air box let me know, mine was been broken by a handfisted Mechanic prior to me owning the car and has been sucking unfiltered air ever since, grrr !!! 

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Guys, yes I am new to Briskoda but I am Older and wiser therefore suggest that unless you intend to do the Dakar fit the cone filter.

 

In my opinion you will surely not encounter such environmental conditions driving around the uk?

 

P.S. 

 

 

Skodalad, If you want to sell your air box let me know, mine was been broken by a handfisted Mechanic prior to me owning the car and has been sucking unfiltered air ever since, grrr !!! 

 

Older, however certainly not wiser, that's TERRIBLE advice. You're obviously no engineer.

 

UK roads are worse now than ever, your air filter is continually gulping highly abrasive brake dust and road grit, if your airbox is broken I strongly advise you to remove the TIP and take a sneak peek at the face of your impeller, it might be a bit shinier than you'd like!

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well i fitted my airbox back on today and gotto say car feels slower i'm now def going back to a cone not foam this time what do people think of this 1?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111324207254?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Jetex are terrible filters, try an S2000 paper cone, standard airbox is ok to 220 bhp, not 280 bhp Steve, I'm trying to advise people with remapped standard or PD150/170 turbos to avoid the dumb aftermarket rubbish that can kill the soft monkey metal impellers fitted to OE turbos.

 

 

 

Long list of stupid stats, however nothing about filtration efficiency, if you're not running big power (>220 bhp) you don't need to take the risk.

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80mm neck to fit afm the 76mm

 

Dude, your impeller is 65mm diameter inside the housing, at the TIP it's much less, just match the internal diameter of the impeller face and you'll have no restriction at all.

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Jetex are terrible filters, try an S2000 paper cone, standard airbox is ok to 220 bhp, not 280 bhp Steve, I'm trying to advise people with remapped standard or PD150/170 turbos to avoid the dumb aftermarket rubbish that can kill the soft monkey metal impellers fitted to OE turbos.

 

 

 

Long list of stupid stats, however nothing about filtration efficiency, if you're not running big power (>220 bhp) you don't need to take the risk.

 

Yes ive read your info, im not after pub talk, im after a alternative to a ****ed air box mate... so im looking for a cheaper alternative .. and as darkside are running a drag car sucking up a **** load of crap, into their car with i guess 4 grand worth of engine mods .. im assuming it must do the job ?

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Yes ive read your info, im not after pub talk, im after a alternative to a ****** air box mate... so im looking for a cheaper alternative .. and as darkside are running a drag car sucking up a **** load of crap, into their car with i guess 4 grand worth of engine mods .. im assuming it must do the job ?

 

You assume wrong.

 

Listen, you can choose ignore my well-intentioned advice, I don't care, just do it QUIETLY, there's no call for rudeness.

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You assume wrong.

 

Listen, you can choose ignore my well-intentioned advice, I don't care, just do it QUIETLY, there's no call for rudeness.

i wasn't rude . 

 

ive read this thread and too me reading your advise to other this filter seems to have what you suggest.

 

 - no oil

 - states outstanding performance in dusty conditions filters 99% of contaminants.

 

What about this filter are you saying is bad?

 

and what WOULD you suggest, if as in my case my air box is cracked and needs replacing.

 

Can you suggest a cheap alternative to a replacement air box?

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