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I can't hear the relay clicking, but there is a relay in the fuse box, and I tested it externally and it's good, so I've concluded that I either need to take it from the ECU cable or from under the steering wheel.

Thank You for answer, i'll do that

Maybe he connected legs of relay. Can you hear pump relay disconnecting after couple of seconds? Or maybe there is no relay just jumper.

Ok so the car works, but that is not a relay issue in my opinion(i know only basic electrics so take this with a grain of salt) what he probably did is that he spliced a triger wire from the ecu to ignition 12 volts, prob becouse of ecu issue. What u can do is try and find where he spliced in(def a dashboard out job) and add a basic switch so u can manualy control the priming of the fuelpump(race car style 😉), or rewire the trigger wire back to the ecu and chase the accual issue. As for the manuals have u checked malualslib or scribid?

Start the car (or turn on the ignition). Hold down the radio on/off button (volume control) for approximately 10 to 15 seconds. The screen will go completely blank, the Škoda logo will appear in the middle and the system will completely restart. After starting, check if the navigation has appeared.

I wrote to you

Showed this to a mechanic friend of mine and he diagnosed it as the OAP (overrunning alternator pulley) bought a replacement pulley for £60, a Sealyey pulley removal tool for £30 and had it off and replaced in about an hour. Would've probably been quicker if it hadn't been so hot! Also had to use a longer Torx bit than the one in the kit as the original (now discontinued) pulley was significantly longer than the replacement. Easy enough to do except maybe a bit of a hassle getting enough leverage with the alternator in situ but, frankly, couldn't be a**sed taking it off! Done about 300 miles since with absolutely no issues and engine sounds sweet. Thanks for the replies and advice 🙂

Yes, it works, but I want to leave it like new since it could affect other things in the long run.

Does the car run like that??

I mean that the pump doesn't stop after 2 or 3 seconds, it stays on all the time, and that's because the previous owner left it permanently on.

Suggest reposting with a meaningful title and a description of what the thing is! Thread locked

@Joco776 Thank you, I am new to the forum and not able to send you DM😄

Thank you!

What do u mean directly?? if the engine dosnt flood with gas, my guess wuld be fuel pressure regulator just returning the gas in the gastank

Yeah. Adjust my settings a bit re car security, theft risk. Happy if these aren’t such a target. I’ve clearly become paranoid twitchy after 7 years with an R. Happy to have a simpler life and plenty other things to spend my £ on instead of locks, immobilisers, trackers and subscriptions.

These cars are generally EFB or EFB+. AGM batteries are often only in more expensive, or larger cars (with larger engines that need to be turned over). The SOS unit won’t be a paralytic draw. I suspect the battery is knackered - mine went after three years. I’m very kind to it now and regularly charge it. Get it drop tested at a local garage - don’t bother with Halfords, they’re most often a bunch of clowns, with increasingly fewer exceptions.

Or, as everyone around us (London) does, just install some bollards if the car is worth keeping. My car lives in the garage so theft isn’t really a concern for me. We have other cars on the driveway, etc, but if someone wants them, they’re welcome to them - that’s what insurance is for. One of them wears a steering lock, and the keys are put in faraday pouches. Aside from that, we’ve done all we can realistically do.

It’s also worth saying, regarding tyre rotation, that this isn’t always possible. My Octavia has standard geometry, but even then, the front camber (at least with the driving it sees) has a reasonably significant impact on tyre wear patterns. I wouldn’t put my fronts on the back. I’ll be getting two new rear soon, and those tyres will be going on the front. The front will be binned. There is a good 4-5mm on the outside shoulder, but I’m below 3mm on the inside shoulder. I’ll probably run them until autumn as the car doesn’t really go anywhere at the moment, and it’s nice and dry.

The problem I'm having is that the fuel pump is wired directly; I mean, when I turn the ignition switch on, the pump starts and doesn't turn off. I'd like to know the wiring diagram for this pump, how it's connected to the relay, and how I can fix this problem. Thank you very much.

You can also repair scuff marks with heat, but I would do some research before attempting this - it’s very easy to overdo!

Literally anything would be more useful than this. If we’re talking about the subframe bolts, note that these are stretch bolts and should really be changed.

We have the same in the UK market - it’s a non-cost option. My car has it ticked. I personally wouldn’t bother ticking it - one more thing to go wrong (as I’ve just found out) and the only time I use it is during slow traffic in heavy rain. I’m currently deciding whether to get a new motor or just delete it. Still not sure!

Small update. Spent today driving it and it’s certainly not 100% as it’s hunting on start up before settling down and there’s a bit of additional vibration in the cab at idle. (There always was a bit but it’s worse). There’s also a bit of a whistle noise which would certainly indicate a leak somewhere, possibly the intake manifold which may be causing the excessive suction in the crankcase. Here’s what it’s doing on start up

hello can i have the link?

@Richard80945 Maybe a title that gives a clue would be an idea. Or just post more what the job being done.