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Finally been allowed to come out of my company car scheme - no more massive BIK tax bills! Took delivery of a 1 year old Superb Est Sportline Plus 1.5 TSi dsg. It's only got about 9k miles on it and I got a good finance deal. Went for petrol this time as don't do the miles to justify diesel and didn't want DPF/adblue issues. Previous car was a Superb SE Business 2.0Tdi estate - I can swap over bootliner and dog guard to my new car A few boring stats on my old car:- In 4 years did 36622 miles, used 756 gallons of diesel. Averaged 50 mpg (12p/mile) Brilliant service from Mitchell Skoda in Chester.

Just had a colour correction and polish done

Afternoon all, So excited. Put the deposit down on my new to me car today and pick it up Friday!!!, Ive been a member before as I used to have a mk2 Superb. I have always looked on the site to see what’s going on but I’m pleased to say on Friday I pick up a my2015.5 ‘65Reg Superb Combi SE L Executive 2.0 tdi 190 . Its a high miler at 100k but it will have 12months mot and new cam belt kit and water pump done before collection. Look forward to sharing my journey with you. Beerok

Hi @beerok and welcome (back). The 190 TDI is a peach. Great mid-range grunt and brilliant fuel economy. I think you will love it. I've only done 35k in mine, but I have no doubt it will keep going comfortably to 200k if maintained properly. There is a reason they are used as taxis! Shy is right about where the Adblue filler cap is, but a bit optimistic on usage. I haven't calculated anything scientific, but when you get the 1,500 mile fill-up warning, putting 10 litres in gives a range of c9,000 miles. So about 750 miles per litre. Everything is shown in the infotainment screen, including miles remaining to fill-up. Adblue costs pennies so won't add significantly to running costs. I buy a 10-litre tin from Halfords for about £12 - others fill up using garage forecourt pumps, which is even cheaper. Get some pictures up once you have it, and enjoy the new motor. 👍

I won’t buy a diesel again - DPF issues on my last car, good mpg but buying a car for its mpg is ridiculous. Buy the car you want, you’ll find the money to run it unless it’s a V8... I do around 20k miles a year in my TSI and get around 38mpg commuting on the motorway, 31mpg mixed. I spend upto £400 a month on petrol but it makes me smile. I can start the car quietly and get warm quickly, without the tractor sound ruining the peace and making everything rattle. Petrol smells nice too 👍 Edit: I may have to buy a diesel camper van, can’t find a TSI! 😆

Ok so I wanted to put up a mini guide for this as all my info for this prior install came from MK7 Golf GTI's and R 's which are 95% the same but not identical. There's a few threads on the internet and YT where you can gather the big picture of the amount and type of labour involved in this job (l will link them below) and I don't plan to repeat all of it but rather build upon it with my own DIY oriented tips and findings on the 272 (280 is the same). Also because we struggled a lot at some points (probably because it was my first time messing with springs on my own) so If I could save another guy's time and trouble doing this for the first time I'd be very glad. It's a PITA job if you haven't done it before, especially if you follow the "easy" 2x4 method that seems to be so popular online like I did. As someone said it's half art half science and you have to work by feel at certain stages otherwise you might be stuck with a half removed/installed strut... It took me and a buddy that was helping me out close to 6-7hr for the two fronts but that's because we got stuck at some point, I'm pretty sure I could get them done again in 4hr max now that I know the tricks. Rears are really easy, 2hr is probably all the time you need so around 6hr in total. Getting the strut out: So the start was really easy: I removed wheel, lifted the front of the car (i did both ends to avoid working at an angle), and unscrewed the plastic leveling arm bracket, the brake line bracket on the knuckle and the DCC plug (both sides). Then I just undid the end-link nut and the triple square bolt and nut that keep the strut in place on the knuckle and ready I was for the 2x4 method. This refers to a 2x4 inch wood block, used to lift the strut up and out from the knuckle (by attaching it to the strut and jacking it up with a jack) without needing to drop the axle too low or undoing any drive shaft or ball joint bolts or brake calipets etc. It's the approach with minimum fasteners replacement so I guess that's why it's popular with the DIY-ers but retrospectively I'm not too sure it's actually quicker than removing the shaft from the knuckle, especially the first time, and especially during the re-install stage which is where we got stuck. This video shows it very well: My comments on this: * Before you start dropping the lower control arm: put some masking tape to mark the height at which the strut is seated inside the knuckle. You'll thank yourself later when it will be going in very slow and hard and you won't know how much more you should continue to drop it. Here's mine while going back in, the bottom of the mask needed to go down to the top face of the knuckle seat (50mm more at that point) * Install your spreader or 1/4" ratchet at the knuckle as shown in the vids and guides, and start wiggling the LCA via the brake disc (pull towards you and push towards the inside of the car) so that the LCA starts to drop as the spreader keeps it loose. It should do quite easily at the beginning, like 2-3cm immediately. Then reposition your spreader lower, below the strut's little tab at the back (you'll feel it blocking further drop back there) and repeat and you should have the strut out/LCA down by a total of 6-8cm (3"). The little tab will be fully ABOVE the bolt hole. Only then proceed to the 2x4" otherwise you'll need to compress the spring dangerously high. * Don't use an actual 2x4 piece (not even the guy in the vid uses one i believe), it's going to be too big for the available space. I went with a rectangular 45x45mm (1.75x1.75") piece and it worked a breeze, much easier to get in and out and position as close and as parallel as possible to the strut which is what you want in order to avoid going in at angle and end up snapping it mid-way. * Install your piece of wood as parallel and as close as possible to the strut (sorry no pic of that). Also drill as small a hole for the bolt as you can (12mm is fine, i did a 10mm and slowly "ate" a couple mill around it with the drill bit for a snug fit). That way the wood doesn't even need to lift the strut itself, it's all done via the hole and the bolt and it's still very rigid. * Now, have a friend SLOWLY jacking the wood up and keep wiggling the brake disc to help release the strut. Even with the spreader, the knuckle probably won't be that loose to simply lift the strut out by jacking so go slow and patiently. If it's not right you'll start lifting the entire LCA with the strut (and the whole car) up from the jack so back down, reposition your spreader at the top if needed, and repeat jacking and wiggling the disc. It should soon come out. * Once it does, rotate the knuckle away from the strut's axis so that it's got room to decompress once you release the jack. Then just undo the 3 small bolts at the top and the strut should drop right out. <<< STRUT OUT, that's 20% of the whole job done >>> Now on to spring removal: Videos show the GTI/R springs simply extend 1-2 cm with very little force so no spring compressors needed. The Superb however sits higher from factory, even the Sportline. I expected the release wouldn't be so light and i was right. When the last thread is out the springs decompress a couple of cm and shoot the top mount and nut a few meters forward. It's probably not going to kill you but you definitely don't want to stand in its way and trying it, it's a fiercer release than on the GTIs and Rs. Still I wouldn;t get compressors when doing it again but make sure you do as I did and have the axis of the spring clear for the release, be above it and step on it steadily and use a standard ratchet (not some sort socket) so that your hand is away from the spring's shooting path, here's a short clip of that: Re-Installation Nothing to note here, remove spring, install new spring and seat it correctly on the rubber base, use Eibach's supplied bump stops (they look identical to OEM), put back the spring bushing and top mount, ALIGN them properly by checking the alignment marks! and start screwing the top nut (you can simply compress the spring by hand for the first few mm needed. Here is where it pays to have a special 21mm pass-through socket and a 7mm Allen key as you won;t be able to put the exact amount of torque (the damper piston with the inner screw will be spinning. I didn't so I had to improvise, I tightened it up to where it felt really snug and also noticed there were installation marks from factory and I was already maybe half a turn past them so they should be good. No funny noises/clanks after anyway Once the strut is assembled again, vids say "just follow reverse order". yeah, reverse order my ar53... Notes: * DON'T tighten the 3 top mount bolts as you'll never be able to tilt the strut to the required angle to sit in the knuckle again, just a couple of threads to prevent it from dropping should be fine. * Re-insert the spreader if you removed it before, re-attach your wood to the strut, jack it up to clear the knuckle, rotate the knuckle and align the strut and knuckle as concentrically as you can by eye, then lower the jack SLOWLY so that you ensure the strut starts seating properly. Unfortunately it won't just go back in by the spring's force. First time we had a tiny small angle between strut and knuckle axes which was enough to stop anything from moving further. Moving the jack below the LCA and trying to jack it up to force the strut to drop in resulted in jacking the entire car up... After lots of swearing and re-trying we figured it out: * After the strut is in a few mm, and ONLY IF you see it;s going in straight and not at an angle, move the jack below the LCA and SLOWLY jack it up while at the same time wiggling the brake disc the same way you did for releasing, so that the strut is allowed to drop deeper every time. Re-position the spreader as you go so that you don't obstruct the tab to drop and it once it's fully in (your marking tape will tell you that without doubt) you're done. Re-tightening the bolts and connectors is straight-forward and that's 40% of the job done. The passenger side is another 40% and the rears I'd attribute a mere 10% of the total time needed for each one. A nice mess mid-way... REARS Those are probably 3x easier I'd say (actually 4x according to my time estimation above ). One leveling arm only as well as the DCC plugs το disconnect and you can start undoing the 3 bolts needed: a) end-link bolt-nut b) shock bolt-nut c) wheel bearing bolt-nut. * I'd recommend starting from the end-link on the inside and working your way out as i feel doing that last will put too much force on the end-link after everything is loose and the spring still pushing. * You will need to use your jack to align the different holes to facilitate the re-mounting as you're fighting vs the spring at that point. The arm to wheel bearing joint is a really tight fit so a screwdriver will be most probably needed to do some micro alignment for the screw to go in and out properly. >>> I opted to replace the top spring pads/bushings with the Audi TT ones (OE part number: 8J0512149 ) as suggested in some threads to avoid reverse rake. Those are ~6.5mm thicker so the rear sits 6.5mm higher. It turns out it was a wise choice as you'll see Coming back soon with photos of the end result and the handling changes

Yes I now have 360 horses. TBH, yes it feels different but not 80hp more than stock. I guess thats the very linear power delivery of the re-map & the fact it's going to all 4 wheels - not just 2. Getting to the legal limit was all to easy previously but now, it's like engaging warp speed! Good to know you've got it if you need it. I may have to look into getting the DSG re-mapped to remove the hesitation when you stamp on the loud pedal. And I must start using the Eco mode a bit more often - yeah right 🤣 I used to be an Audi driver (had an A6 Avant for 10 years) - but I saw the light. Audi & BMW are very common cars these days so are no longer appealing to me. I also get a nosebleed when a car costs more than my 1st house😡

Mundane one from me, but worth considering for those who haven't driven for a while. Took mine up the motorway and back to charge the battery in preparation for travelling to client meetings next week. 70 mph is quick if you haven't done it for a while! I used ACC to settle myself into things, but will be doing the same trip tomorrow to get back into motorway driving. Stay safe all.

What happened to the car between 14 Oct 2011 when it was MOT'd at 116530 miles and 21 April 2020 when it failed its MOT at 116581 miles? 51 miles in 9 years and no MOT's. https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/?_ga=2.920312.87840739.1593033724-1994358082.1580159673 Thanks AG Falco

Very fetching. Below are my new polarised fishing sunglasses c/w built in 2 x reading panels so I can see close up for tying hooks / reading etc. Bifocal Polaroids - who knew? £15 on Amazon.

check your battery

C’mon.... You have to have your front fog and side lights on when you don’t have daytime lights; it’s the law.....🙄

But I only replaced springs on a DCC car, those don't interfere with DCC anyway. The OP is asking about a possible damper replacement. B4 should be a direct replacement item but that's the theory. No idea if they actually require some coding or not...

Welcome! My (about to be replaced) company car is a high miler at 127k (as of yesterday) but just keeps going so I trust yours will be the same. Fantastic car, haven't regretted choosing it for a moment.

Usually if you shop around you can get a discount code somewhere online or if lucky enough the website will have a sale on. I usually pay between £15-20 for the above shell oil when it’s on sale, it’s a bit cheaper Here on eBay with free delivery I do less miles than you a year and stick to one service a year and I’ve never had any oil issues, There’s loads of variants to choose from when choosing oil and people can be fussy however to me if it’s a named brand, a good price and the correct weight for my car I’ll happily use it.

Some people mod with VCDS so you need to hold the washers on for a few seconds to get it to do it too

Update. On the recommendation from Prague, the whole blower unit has been replaced. Due to the equivalent of shielding, Dealer picked up my car, left a courtesy car, brought my car back the next day. Couldn’t ask for better service.

Think of the fun you could have with the honk and flash if you didn’t delete.

They aren't meant to work every time, I assume the MOT tester knows this? The headlights need to be switched on (dipped beam), and it will wash the headlights with the first pull of the stalk after lights come on, then every third (I think it is) pull after that... Otherwise, it could be the hoses have come off somewhere - this can happen if sprayed when washers are frozen, as it's water pressure that pushes the washers out on their stalks.

The rear indicator Twenty20 Cree bulbs arrived and fitted. Nothing on the dash to indicate a bulb failure. When comparing each other in direct bright sunshine, the Cree bulb looks at least twice as bright as the original. The flash of the Cree bulbs is crisp and seems crisper than the original bulb, although this is somewhat subjective. The pair were £22 inc post

I found that the garage was only changing the oil so decided to service the car my self. The coil pack removal tool is well worth getting as they can be difficult to pull out. My oil sucking out device would not go down the dip stick tube. Sump plug washer looked OK but I replaced it with a new copper one. To get the oil filter off the plastic inner shaft give it a sharp tap on a solid surface. It doesn't take much oil so go easy. You do need to jack the car up and support it or use a couple of ramps made from some big timbers such as railway sleepers cut to form ramps. The front brake pads can be checked through the alloy wheels. Good luck.

Exactly mate, held on with a few clips,

£247 each. think I will get it refurbished.

Where do you think the premium brands have their products manufactured? The only thing that has changed is that now they have to print on the product where it is made, many find a way around that by assembling or packaging the items in europe. At least you know that its not counterfeit because those guys ain't concerned about respecting the laws and would print made in Germany on it.

============= IMPORTANT UPDATE =============== I was investigating further the rear drop, as I was puzzled as to how it ended up being at the exact same height as the front even though I used the 6.5mm thicker rear Audi pads. I mean yes, the even drop front and rear on mine looks very good and sporty but what about people that just install the springs without Audi pads? They shouldn't end up with a whole 6.5mm lower rear end surely?? Turns out I was half-screwed by Eibachs own catalog, well to some extent. For buying my springs I used the "Eibach product catalog 2017" which was available from one of their websites until last year when I also downloaded it, I attach it in this message. There the kit number for 2.0 4x4 is given as: E10-85-042-03-22 comprising of F11-85-042-03-FA front, F11-15-007-04-HA rear. However going on their online part search: http://web2.carparts-cat.com/default.aspx?10=60730C6FF832499EA965D097B657382D279004&14=4&12=100 the kit showing up now for both 280 and 272 is a different one: E10-79-012-04-22 comprising of F11-85-042-03-FA front (same as in the PDF and the one i put on) but F11-79-008-01-HA rear! Weirdly enough, my F11-15-007-04-HA rears have somehow lost 30kg from their old rating. In the PDF they are rated for 1250kg but on-line they show up as 1220kg if one searches for that part number. So all in all, and according to the on-line catalog right now (who knows if and when that changes), I have installed rear springs with slightly lower rear axle load rating (1220kg vs 1253kg). Is that enough to cause a greater drop, and in particular this 6.5mm that I got back from the Audi pads? I happened to replace the pads with thicker ones so the car sits nice, but I would probably have gained another 5-6mm rear with the correct rear ones. I could just buy two updated rears and install them but not sure if it's worth the hassle considering I don't tow or generally go anywhere near the max load, and the car sits evenly front and back... I also contacted Eibach explaining the situation but I doubt they will look into it. In any case, anyone going with Eibachs double check the correct kit for your car via their online parts catalog as any other consolidated documentation you might have already might be out of date. eibach-produktkatalog_2.pdf

Not quite been a week, but I’ve done a few hundred miles and the difference in the DSG I notice is: - Quicker shifts in auto mode (manual mode is same speed shifting) - Optimised shifting points, for example before the map in sport mode I found it held onto the gears for way to long letting the power die before shifting, but now it shifts just after peak boost Those are the only differences I have noticed and as I went for a DSG stage 1 the biggest change is the clutch plate clamping pressure to ensure there is no clutch slip, so more ensuring the longevity of the DSG more than anything. I also like the auto change down etc as it means I can be lazy as junctions and not worry about manually changing down to 1st, this is something you loose on a stage 2 upwards I believe, so stage 1 was good for me. Also MPG is completely unaffected by the remap - 47mpg on a run (on way back from Darkside, Barnsley to Coventry) and 35 around town with a lot of heavy footed spirited driving. So all in all, totally worth it

You have the paint code, it is HA7...

If your car has stop/ start you may have to have the car coded to accept the new battery.

I agree, in the brochure I have it was £155, no money, but I suppose it all adds up so you have to decide what you want or a £15000 car quickly becomes £20000 The greenline is listed in the brochure to have optional rear windows, dunno why your dealer said no, but not surprised as most dont know their ass from the head. It's not that big of a job to add them, and with more and more parts becoming used it dont take long to aquire the "kit".

Part number I used was 6V0-955-485. No idea of the diameter.

Unless your multimeter has a dedicated battery test position that adds a resistor into the measuring circuit then you are not getting an accurate reading by just measuring the battery voltage on a normal volts dc range.

@digifish Ignore my last post, I must have misread your post. You are right about vibration isolation failure.

Good morning Yes, this is the impression I had also, that everything you need comes with the Westfalia kit. I've contacted Skoda Norway, and they will look into the issue, because the lady there was somewhat surprised when I told her the price.

@JR RSIt looks like we all have the same shock unit 3Q0413031AK. This is mine: This is @newbie69's one: (I can see _Q0413031AK) So, if there are differences between L&K DCC and Sportline DCC, it has to be through software. Maybe it's set different due to the 10mm lower suspensions on Sportline?

I reckon an experiment needs to be done. sit in the car with the key and close windows and fold mirrors as above, then check the deadlocks are engaged, if the inside door handles won't open the doors the alarm sensor should by active. then move about to trigger the alarm but there is a delay on mine (about 20 sec's) so give it chance to arm itself.

Just a quick update for anyone considering doing this. The Fuchs titan sintofluid has made the gear change much smoother, especially from a cold start

The latest maps are now on the portal for anyone interested

My citigo had similar symptoms and it turned out to be the engine earth lead had corroded away.

Will tell you when mine arrives. Strut brace UK are the people to go to but I suspect they will be busy for a while as mine is coming from a group buy that took about 60 orders and they are being made now. They are good vfm.

Don't mention it, that's why we spend time here, to take and give our experiences and make and help others make decisions as much as possible. Just keep in mind that the L&K DCC could be different than the Sportline DCC so maybe not all of my findings will apply to your car. For example, I was told by some members that with Eibachs on their L&K, the car was bottoming out in Comfort due to the soft damping and became unusable. I have also read that Eibachs are "too soft" for the DCC car, again that was on a L&K. Well, none of the above seems to be true in my Sportline DCC. Unless going over speedbumps at 40km/h which is A LOT, I haven't experienced any bottoming out even though I tried to induce it the other day by the fastest - yet safe - speed I could drive over the bumps. Also, too soft?! They are ideal. The car is still allowed to fully and smoothly rebound in Comfort and Normal, while Sport now feels like my old GTI somewhere in-between its Normal and Sport modes, closer to its Sport in fact. It has to be the dampers and their DCC setting that allows all that excessive suspension movement, can't be anything else really that provides so different results. ====================== Yes I get what you mean about the BBK. I love your honesty when saying don't expect crazy difference in braking power. People think bigger brakes mean so much more stopping power but it's the endurance and repeatability of the braking that you get above all. I think what I'm after is more a stronger initial bite and better pedal control so maybe I try better pads, discs and lines first. However it's true that at the current state I seriously thought of taking it to the local track for some fun and there I would definitely need a proper kit as i would not be containing myself to just 2-3 hot laps and then cool-down. I know I have failed to stick to that in the past, ending up cooking my brakes and having a scary drive back...

Made emblem/signage changes on my sportline karoq: Bought from superskoda.com - unfortunately front badge isnt a perfect fit (even tho I had it installed in detailing shop) Either way, much better looking than standard skoda emblems

My Karoq is a 69 plate 1.5 SEL but my front badge measures exactly 109mm.

My measurement: 109.49 mm Car is a 69 plate 1.5 SEL (with the word Skoda on the rear rather than a badge) registered in Feb of this year.

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Still waiting for it to be dispatched from scorpion 😒 don't worry I am as anxious as you !

The part number is 046 131 887 if anyone would be interested.

Never had a recent diesel but I would guess at about 1 litre per 1,000 miles (complete guess remember).

Said goodbye to the Fabia Monday 😢 I'll be sad to leave the forum as well because everyone has been really helpful. I've posted on two different BMW forums recently and not got a single reply 😐

Hmmmmm? I've had a long hard think about that and the answer's no.