StevesTruck

On the pump, look for a wire going into what looks like the middle of a 17mm? Bolthead. Did you find out if it was a D or SDI, or have you got the reg and I'll look it up?

That's falrly accurate, there weren't any turbo diesels in the Skoda Felicia car or Pickup, only the VW Caddy/ Seat Inca Van. Do you know if it's a D or an SDI (should say on the boot)? The thing I would say though is never trust someone else's diagnosis. Daft stuff first, see if it's smoking out the exhaust when you turn it over, if it is, it's getting fuel in the cylinders. Check the cambelt isn't snapped. Give it a blast of brake cleaner down the air intake while someone turns it over. Make sure the stop valve is working, if you put your little finger on it, you should feel a little click as the ignition goes on and off. The stop valve should have 12v to it with the ignition on, if in doubt, take it out, remove the plunger and stick it back in (you might then need to stall the car to stop the engine if it's a D). Then I'd start by doing a leak off test. unplug the return hoses from the injectors, find some hose the right size and run them between the outlets on the injectors and 4 containers the same size (500ml pop bottles work well). Make sure there's diesel in the car and at the filter and spin it over. If you get a lot of fuel in a container. That injector's probably knacked. If you get a dribble into the container, things are probably OK, particularly if they're all the same level. If you don't get any, either it's out of fuel, the pump isn't pumping, or fuel the system needs bleeding. After that, go with whatever you've got a tester for, be it fuel pressure, compression. If it's solid, I'd go for it anyway, diesels aren't difficult. Worst case, it's got poor compression so it'll be easier to put an engine on. SDI's are easy to find, the older D's are getting a bit scarce.

I've never had a good result from them, either waiting ages for them to despatch something that's "in stock", or where I've paid for a brand name part and they've still sent me the random chinese brand.

Yeah, different times though. I've got a Cordoba with the old VE engine in that I will literally pour any old **** in. Modern diesels are a different game.

I wouldn't chance it in a modern diesel that I cared about. Older diesels were normally ok with up to 25% petrol.

I've used these for radio codes a few times. They charge about £15-20, but are spot on to deal with https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/ The rear wipers have a weird attachment, they seem to be expensive anywhere online, our local parts factor (Parkers - https://thepartspeople.co.uk/#Branches), had them on the shelf and were no more expensive than any other wiper blade.

Just because it's free and easy, drop your pollen/cabin filter out and see if it's full of water. Again, on the cheap and easy. have a sit in the car and get someone to go round it one area at a time with the pressure washer, and see when water comes in. Probably won't be an external leak, but it's the easy place to look.

43 for sale in FM Hutchings auction on 12/9/26

It's a questionable practice, but my favourite way of cleaning a coolant system is to throw a dishwasher tablet in. Can you get any live data from the temperature sensors?

To be fair, that sounds more like a flap or control issue than a problem on the cooling circuit. Does your car have 2 zone climate control in the front? My sneaking suspicion would be that one of the cabin or vent temperature sensors is giving spurious readings.

Wow, that's a shifty looking company. Address hidden away in a privacy policy, no nominee details on the domain registration and a director with a string of liquidated companies with very similar names.

Yeah, that's never coming out. I'm guessing they tack welded it to the frame before they put the skin panel on. - Best suggestion would be a rivnut.

There's an old farmer round here has one, the car is more rust than metal, and the private plate on it's probably worth about £20k 🤣

I've just noticed you're in Lincolnshire. Drop me a message if there's anything I can do to help. I live in Alford, work odd days in Lincoln and Grimsby

Petrol or diesel?

Give the cable a really thorough looking at, unplug it, manipulate it about a bit, looking for cracks. It's possible that the wires are starting the break up and it's only showing when the car's moving.

It might have just taken a few goes to do a decent regen, and after that, taken some time to register everything is now ok.

Just a word to the wise, these love to seize up. Give them a good spray a day or two in advance and clean the bolt head up well before trying to remove it. The hole normally goes all the way through on VW group cars, so you can probably get in to spray the thread from the other side as well.

C+R Enterprises in Radford 👍

First things first - have you changed the pollen filter and checked there's no nastiness going off in it's housing? My old employer used to use the Normfest foggers in their vehicles, and it worked well. Personally, I use an ozone generator. Run it for an hour with the air con on recirculating, then knock it off and let it sit overnight before venting the car. Bear in mind the foggers and ozone are both toxic, so you do need to vent the car out.

Cost to insure would be no different, but they probably would try to knock you quite heavily on PAV if it were written off again. Some of the more expensive car history checks (car vertical and the like) will sometimes show pictures from when the car was in the salvage auction. I personally wouldn't buy a repaired car unless the seller was prepared to show me pictures of the original damage, so I can see where repairs have been done and check the quality of them.

Which engine?

Clamp the flexi hoses one at a time, see what it does to the pedal feel. That can help you find which wheel has the issue, or if it's a whole system problem (which would point to the master cylinder). I'm a big fan of pre-filling calipers before connecting them, and using a vacuum bleeder rather than a pressure bleeder.

That's a lot of errors for one system. I'd be checking all fuses, then see if there's any corrosion in the ABS module plug, after that, I'd suspect damage to the wiring loom.

That will normally be linked to the offside front wheel abs sensor, but without the codes, we're just guessing