StevesTruck

If you're using the supplied wheelbrace, the correct torque is you back 4 rows of teeth squashed together. 👍

The app I use says 120Nm.

Expect this thread to blow up with angry people really soon 🤣 The copy ones only work up to a certain version of the software, which is now really old. https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.php or by way of installing loads of suspicious software on your computer that's probably not going to do nice things to it. If you're mainly planning on using it on your own stuff it's worth having a look at the 3-VIN licences. They're not as cheap as the copy ones, but still good value, and you can do a lot without using up one of the VIN's. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq-u9BhCjARIsANLj-s2He4a1sLYcSoE4W7pEov7iQLjFIs2n6q9jwhBtvao30Fg-DbyaiacaAj-iEALw_wcB

They do break sometimes, all you can do is be as careful as possible. "Give it a spray and walk away" is the key rule for anything that's a bit seized. I'm a big believer in letting stuff soak overnight where possible. Don't get too hung up playing Top Trumps with what the best spray is, if one's going to work, they're all going to work sooner or later - it's just a question of how much you have to use and how long you let it soak for. Be patient and wiggle the sensor loose rather than going in with bit actions. Once you get a bit of movement on it and there's a gap between the metal and the plastic, get some more spray in and drink some more tea. Try to lift it out with a tool under the sensor against the metal rather that pulling it. @J.R. 's suggestion of giving the surrounding metal a buzz with the air hammer is a great one 👍

That does sound like pretty standard "running out of electricity" symptoms. The way it started for the recovery man makes me thing the battery is OK at least. Good news is, there's quite a bit you can check yourself with a torch and a screwdriver. Have a good look over all the big cables between the battery, starter and alternator, looking for cables fraying at the plugs, loose connections, corrosion. Check the maxi fuses on top of the battery. They can develop cracks which look ok until you give them a prod. Check the small wire that runs to the alternator. I'm fairly sure it's a similar setup on a roomster to a mk1 fabia, where it runs along the bar under the radiator into a multiplug, where it can often break down.

If you're using a chisel to spread it, there's a risk of going too far and cracking the hub (I've done that). Use the right tool, they're cheap.

It's on ManualsLib (great site and app for all sorts of stuff).

On the windows - Tesco glass cleaner (the one in the green spray bottle) and blue roll. Same thing I use when I'm preparing shop windows for vinyls, it's the best stuff going.

On most VAG cars that age, the end of the pipe is a bit convex and the heater matrix inlets are a bit concave. The clamps are a v-band that pushes them together when fitted properly . It can be an utter **** of a job but needs to be done right. if you think the matrix is gunked up, have you tried disconnecting the pipes in the engine bay side and flushing it out with a hose pipe (or airline if you're a fatalist)?

If you look your car up on https://navigates.gates.com/emea/ select the accessory belt, it normally shows you a fitting diagram.

Don't buy the J and R ones. They don't last and they don't give a **** when you want to warranty them.

No specific experience of this on a Superb, but I have found a lot of VAG cars specify a lower PSI than what I'd personally run at.

TT?

Are you thinking small car again or something bigger? Dependable choice - Older Polo GTI Fun but risky - £8k Fiesta ST and keep the change in the bank for when it wants an engine

Has whoever's quoted the job attempted any diagnosis, or just read the codes? It's definitely worth at the very least having a quick look at the actuator to make sure it's got a full range of motion before firing the parts cannon. I'd say for the sake of a can of oven cleanser, giving the turbo, and possibly the EGR, a clean can't hurt.

Might have just been a stone behind the brake disc and reversing the car pushed it out. I wouldn't worry unless something feels wrong or it happens again

I'd avoid second hand, you just don't know if someone's given them death with an impact gun when they've been tightened. The originals are probably made by Febi. Their catalogue says the part number is 46632, a quick google says they're about £2 each. They also list the bolt covers. https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/search?t=a&q=karoq&make=Škoda&model=Karoq+4x4+2017+-&page=1&group=Wheels

I watched Yanni's video where he sent his mate through Maccies drive through in it, and it looked like it could do the manoeuvres easily enough, but the visibility was terrible. I suppose the argument is that it's got sensors and cameras.... I'm more into windows and mirrors.

My normal trick for moving long stuff like that is lift the passenger headrest and use the gap between the rods to stop them flying around the inside of the car. I've had 2.4m lengths of timber in a mk2 hatch enough times, so you should be alright.

"coded" would mean a battery that needs the car coding to it, normally a battery for a vehicle with an AGM-type battery. I don't believe the Roomster normally had these, but I could be wrong. Which engine is in your car (petrol or diesel, and the size)? Does it have stop-start assist? If you run your reg on this website, it's normally accurate about what it needed - https://www.tayna.co.uk/ Most garages can do the coding needed. If you've got a garage you trust, they'll normally test the battery that's on the car free or for very little, and let you know if it's getting on for replacement.

If you've been driving it about since, I'd say you're ok as you are. You might have taken a bit of long term life off a few random parts, but it's not something I'd worry about, particularly if you're only planning on keeping it for a few years. The only thing I probably would do is keep the fuel level in the top half of the tank for a few thousand miles. There shouldn't be any real amount of diesel in there any more, but it can't hurt to dilute any that happens to be there as much as possible.

There's not a lot to them, and access to the belt isn't bad at all, so I'd just go with any local independent with a decent reputation. Just make sure they're fitting a decent brand belt kit (Gates, Contitech, Dayco) and ask them to put a genuine VAG water pump on.

Matt from Romiley? You've not massively overspent have you? 😃 Or if you're not into youtube so don't get the reference- welcome to the site!

Wow, this is an old thead to come back to! No point making work you don't have to - I normally use a stretch boot and a cone or spreader to pull it over the CV end. The thermoplastic boots love to find a way to pull themselves off. If it's been split a long time, blast the grease out with brake cleaner, let it dry and put the new grease in with a syringe. If it's not bad, just add a bit extra.

if you're inside, feeding it 12v via the lighter socket should give you enough to unlock the doors.