StevesTruck

If you look your car up on https://navigates.gates.com/emea/ select the accessory belt, it normally shows you a fitting diagram.

Don't buy the J and R ones. They don't last and they don't give a **** when you want to warranty them.

No specific experience of this on a Superb, but I have found a lot of VAG cars specify a lower PSI than what I'd personally run at.

TT?

Are you thinking small car again or something bigger? Dependable choice - Older Polo GTI Fun but risky - £8k Fiesta ST and keep the change in the bank for when it wants an engine

Has whoever's quoted the job attempted any diagnosis, or just read the codes? It's definitely worth at the very least having a quick look at the actuator to make sure it's got a full range of motion before firing the parts cannon. I'd say for the sake of a can of oven cleanser, giving the turbo, and possibly the EGR, a clean can't hurt.

Might have just been a stone behind the brake disc and reversing the car pushed it out. I wouldn't worry unless something feels wrong or it happens again

I'd avoid second hand, you just don't know if someone's given them death with an impact gun when they've been tightened. The originals are probably made by Febi. Their catalogue says the part number is 46632, a quick google says they're about £2 each. They also list the bolt covers. https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/search?t=a&q=karoq&make=Škoda&model=Karoq+4x4+2017+-&page=1&group=Wheels

I watched Yanni's video where he sent his mate through Maccies drive through in it, and it looked like it could do the manoeuvres easily enough, but the visibility was terrible. I suppose the argument is that it's got sensors and cameras.... I'm more into windows and mirrors.

My normal trick for moving long stuff like that is lift the passenger headrest and use the gap between the rods to stop them flying around the inside of the car. I've had 2.4m lengths of timber in a mk2 hatch enough times, so you should be alright.

"coded" would mean a battery that needs the car coding to it, normally a battery for a vehicle with an AGM-type battery. I don't believe the Roomster normally had these, but I could be wrong. Which engine is in your car (petrol or diesel, and the size)? Does it have stop-start assist? If you run your reg on this website, it's normally accurate about what it needed - https://www.tayna.co.uk/ Most garages can do the coding needed. If you've got a garage you trust, they'll normally test the battery that's on the car free or for very little, and let you know if it's getting on for replacement.

If you've been driving it about since, I'd say you're ok as you are. You might have taken a bit of long term life off a few random parts, but it's not something I'd worry about, particularly if you're only planning on keeping it for a few years. The only thing I probably would do is keep the fuel level in the top half of the tank for a few thousand miles. There shouldn't be any real amount of diesel in there any more, but it can't hurt to dilute any that happens to be there as much as possible.

There's not a lot to them, and access to the belt isn't bad at all, so I'd just go with any local independent with a decent reputation. Just make sure they're fitting a decent brand belt kit (Gates, Contitech, Dayco) and ask them to put a genuine VAG water pump on.

Matt from Romiley? You've not massively overspent have you? 😃 Or if you're not into youtube so don't get the reference- welcome to the site!

Wow, this is an old thead to come back to! No point making work you don't have to - I normally use a stretch boot and a cone or spreader to pull it over the CV end. The thermoplastic boots love to find a way to pull themselves off. If it's been split a long time, blast the grease out with brake cleaner, let it dry and put the new grease in with a syringe. If it's not bad, just add a bit extra.

if you're inside, feeding it 12v via the lighter socket should give you enough to unlock the doors.

I'd agree with @StonekeeperIt's high, but not over. The comments about it needing a regen make me think they've got it keyed into the system as a newer car. Generally speaking, and it is a bit approximation: Grey smoke = boost leak Black smoke = injectors Blue smoke = burning oil Billowing white smoke = burning lots of oil, probably via a knackered turbo

I tend to go under the console bushes.

Yeah, I have that one as well. I've had a front wheel off my Vito with it, but as above, it was a bit heavy going. I definitely wouldn't want to lift the whole front end of the van in one go with it, much less 3 tonnes. I also have this one https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjl2-2-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack It could do with a bit more lift ideally, but if I have it on a half inch board, it's perfect for most standard height cars. It's the one I find myself using more than any other. I've had a few Sealey 3 tonne jacks and they've never lasted. Also have one of the old orange Halfords trolley jacks, it's pretty much immortal.

As I understand it, the black box just passes the code on for the ECU to compare it. You can probably get an immob-off ECU off Ebay, or try a company called VAGTronics in Stoke-on-trent.

Your assembly looks absolutely spot on 👌 I think all it's going to be is the corrosion on the back plate where the shoes sit against it. You can try giving them a good wire brushing and put some copper grease on mating surfaces, but ideally, I think it's probably ready for a back plate. They do bolt on, but the bolts are likely to be rusted to death, so you'll probably need to take the hub off to do it. The good news is, if you're taking the hub off, there's no need to disassemble the shoes.

Worst case, there's a seller on Ebay called VAGBolts. If you know a part number (normally start with N), just Google it and see what appears.

It's not unknown for a driveshaft to fall off the gearbox if the bolts haven't been refitted properly. I wouldn't bother jacking it up and spinning wheels in the first case, just drop it in a gear and rock the car. If the clutch has totally lunched itself, I'd Normally expect some bad noises when it's sat idling.

It's not a driveshaft come off or a CV joint failed is it? I had an Audi fool me that way once. If you stick it in a gear with the car turned off and rock the car, can you feel the engine compression?

Yeah, that's fair. What I normally do with hubnuts is torque them, go for a brew while it settles, then retorque and add the extra 90* or whatever the spec says.