StevesTruck

I'd agree with @StonekeeperIt's high, but not over. The comments about it needing a regen make me think they've got it keyed into the system as a newer car. Generally speaking, and it is a bit approximation: Grey smoke = boost leak Black smoke = injectors Blue smoke = burning oil Billowing white smoke = burning lots of oil, probably via a knackered turbo

I tend to go under the console bushes.

Yeah, I have that one as well. I've had a front wheel off my Vito with it, but as above, it was a bit heavy going. I definitely wouldn't want to lift the whole front end of the van in one go with it, much less 3 tonnes. I also have this one https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjl2-2-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack It could do with a bit more lift ideally, but if I have it on a half inch board, it's perfect for most standard height cars. It's the one I find myself using more than any other. I've had a few Sealey 3 tonne jacks and they've never lasted. Also have one of the old orange Halfords trolley jacks, it's pretty much immortal.

As I understand it, the black box just passes the code on for the ECU to compare it. You can probably get an immob-off ECU off Ebay, or try a company called VAGTronics in Stoke-on-trent.

Your assembly looks absolutely spot on 👌 I think all it's going to be is the corrosion on the back plate where the shoes sit against it. You can try giving them a good wire brushing and put some copper grease on mating surfaces, but ideally, I think it's probably ready for a back plate. They do bolt on, but the bolts are likely to be rusted to death, so you'll probably need to take the hub off to do it. The good news is, if you're taking the hub off, there's no need to disassemble the shoes.

Worst case, there's a seller on Ebay called VAGBolts. If you know a part number (normally start with N), just Google it and see what appears.

It's not unknown for a driveshaft to fall off the gearbox if the bolts haven't been refitted properly. I wouldn't bother jacking it up and spinning wheels in the first case, just drop it in a gear and rock the car. If the clutch has totally lunched itself, I'd Normally expect some bad noises when it's sat idling.

It's not a driveshaft come off or a CV joint failed is it? I had an Audi fool me that way once. If you stick it in a gear with the car turned off and rock the car, can you feel the engine compression?

Yeah, that's fair. What I normally do with hubnuts is torque them, go for a brew while it settles, then retorque and add the extra 90* or whatever the spec says.

I put 40k on an SKF one when I had my octavia, without issue if that's any help. They're easy to change, but you will need the right socket and a decent impact gun.

It's been a while since I've done one, but I remember thinking a similar thing myself. From memory, the screw isn't central in the hole in the door. I think as you're looking at it, it will be at about the 7 o'clock position. A screwdriver bit in a holder won't get on it.

If you have a look on youtube for how to do a mk4 Golf one, it's pretty much the same. I'd try to explain it on here, but it's one of those that makes so much more sense in a video.

Poor little thing's confused, so yeah, I'd say it needs a big change of fuel level once of twice to sort itself out. All assuming the mechanic hasn't done something daft to the level sender.

Only having 12 at the battery isn't ideal, but shouldn't stop it lighting up. Is it locking and unlocking from the remote? Simple stuff first, always - check the battery connections and grounds, charge the battery, check the maxi fuses closely for damage, check all other fuses. Turn the key and give the top of the dashboard above the clocks a bang. Try the spare key.

To be fair, I'd probably tank it and run it low a couple of times so it sees the difference in level. The gauge isn't hooked directly to the level sender, so the electrickery probably wasn't expecting to see all the fuel disappear and a new level appear.

Where did he drain the fuel from? Engine bay, underneath, or via the cars interior? I'd imagine if the senders not been taken out and damaged, it will sort itself out after a couple of full tanks of fuel.

I'd be interested in the whole car. I tried to pm you, but I think your inbox might be full or pms turned off?

It's normally a thin wire in the pad material that goes open circuit when it wears away. Either fit the right pads, or put a loop of wire in the plug if you're not bothered about such things.

I'd totally agree with @rum4mo - if you're planning in advance to use the jack of doom, it's not an emergency, so get your hands on a safe jack and use that instead. If I were changing a wheel at the side of the road, and was bothered about scratching the stonechip on the seam (unlikely on a single usage) - I'd probably use a bit of thick, flexible plastic. Maybe a bit of Damp Proof Membrane, or chop a bit out of a heavy plastic shopping bag. Lay it on top of the jack and let it sink into the groove as the sill puts weight on it. But yeah, unless you're utterly up **** creek, don't use the supplied jack.

Don't know if it's still the case, but in my tradeplating days, they used to buy loads of ex-hire cars.

3k on the clock? That's an amazing find! My main concern would be anything made from rubber. I'd be changing the timing and aux belts as soon as possible. Then my main priority would be have a good look at the state of the calipers and replace discs and pads. These don't normally rust, but do give it a good looking at all round in case it's been sat with moisture trapped somewhere.

Anything that may seem unrelated?

Go somewhere that does a free tracking check, tell them you're skint til Friday. Go home, give it a tweak in the right direction, go somewhere else that does a free tracking check...... Doing it with a bit of string at home works, if you've got a dead level surface to park the car on.

30Nm, careful because a lot of torque wrenches won't be accurate that low. The plugs should be pre-gapped when purchased.

Have you been able to do a code read at all?