StevesTruck

https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes

When I did the gearbox on my old pickup, I had the car on stands. You'll need to get under to pull the driveshafts out and undo all the bell housing bolts, so how far you want to lift it depends on your physique. Bear in mind it's a Skoda box, not a VW one, so the driveshaft has a spline that goes into the box and makes the oil seal, rather than bolting onto an output shaft. By necessity, I did mine on axle stands, and lifted the box out the top (it wasn't particularly heavy).

I'm trying to work out why you would need a specialist tool. Is it just to lock the clutch arm? I did a gearbox on a 1.6 years ago and can't remember it being anything special at the gearbox end (never took the pedal box end of the cable off). My normal method of doing a clutch cable is press the pedal, get a volunteer to hold the clutch arm in place with a crowbar, release the pedal and the cable should be loose to move.

Sounds like the recirculating flap motor is skipping teeth when it tries to open. Is the A/C actually a factor, or does it do it when just the fan's on?

It's a support for the handbrake cable. There should be another one on the other side if you want a pattern to look at when you're refitting it

You know you're arguing over an 8 year old post right?

Sniffer kits are cheap enough these days, I'd start there personally.

The only obvious mod is the exhaust, I'm guessing at the very least, it's been mapped though

Just comes up as a Scout TDI 140 on my check, so I'd assume it's just been modified.

Yeah, they do fit at some filling stations. I dodged a bullet the other week nearly doing the same thing at a Shell garage. Personally, I'd keep the tank filled above half for as many miles as possible, so it keeps any contamination as diluted as possible, but that's really splitting hairs, and not one to worry about either way.

I don't know much about valeting stuff, but could be worth heating it up to see if it melts and reforms as it should? Stand the can in a bucket of hot water?

A litre should be fine, I'd always say buy an extra one just in case and take it back if you don't need it.

Last time it had an engine put in, the only thing they'd got to lend her was a Stinger GT. That and she's got a habit of picking up a courtesy car with a full tank of fuel and taking it back on less than fumes 🤣

I don't know how much they're sharing tech with Kia (I know if used to be a lot), but a mate of mine's got a Sportage that's on it's 3rd engine. 7 year warranty though, so she's not bothered

Washing up liquid's a bad idea. Dishwasher tablets work well though. I could be wrong, but - My instinct is, the heater matrix is blocked and the system's got a load of rad weld and/or crap in it.

That makes me think the easiest thing to do is pull a full beam with the brakes on off an old Ibiza/Polo/Fabia. I've not tried it on one of these cars, but on my old Polo, there was quite a bit of adjustment left in the compensator before the back end was anywhere near to going twitchy.

Yep, I can imagine the back end of a Grinall letting go in the wet would be quite an emotional experience.

The 1mm minimum on the grinall is probably because it's a legally a bike not a car as tyres go. Still not a good idea though.

Hard to say, wheel bearings are funny old things that can make all manner of noises. A drumming noise that changes with road speed is a fair indication, jack the front end up and give the front wheels a spin, see if one feels rougher than the other. Go in prepared for a fight with tight fastenings. It's going to happen. If you haven't got an impact wrench and can't borrow one, it's well worth looking at hiring one for the weekend, or the less scrupulous amongst us might be tempted to buy one, use it and take it back.

They're not bad to do if you replace the unit with the hub. You can buy the bearing by itself, but it's not worth the trouble. As above, make sure you've got the right sockets and spline bit before you start. If you can get your hands on a decent impact gun, it makes it an easy job.

Sounds a bit unusual, they don't normally beep either. I wonder if it's got an aftermarket immobiliser on?

If they're 185/60/14's, the price difference between a budget and a brand name tyre is that little that there's no point putting cheap ones on. We put a set of Toyos on dad's because they were that cheap, there was no reason not to.

We've all done it or got close to doing it. Check your breakdown cover, because they might cover for misfuelling. The misfuelling specialists tend to be pretty expensive for what they do. I'd be amazed if it needs any more that the tank draining, new filter and the system flushing through. Not a drama and you might be better with a trusted independant garage, or having a go at DIY'ing it.

There's nothing particularly specialist about adding a key on those. Whereabouts in the country are you? Someone might be able to recommend a better locksmith.

Depends if you're trying to catch Roadrunner