Mickmartin

I seen you mentioned it in your build But I've never seen the option of a reduced supercharger pulley? I didn't think it was possible as it was a unique Eaton M24 charger VW produced, Rather than the usual M45 and from my thinking a smaller pulley would require a smaller belt?

Yeah, The only problem with our supercharger it uses maximum torque from start to finish, there isn't room to squeeze out any more power In the low rpm range. I never realised it took that long for the turbo to spool up, I thought it would be around 3500 rpm? when that turbo kicks in though...….What a feeling that must be

Plug yours into VCDS/ODIS etc and it'll give you the engine code from the ECU. and everybody ………..1...…….2...…….Breathe.

My guess would be that there isn't a ready available twin scroll turbo compatible with this engine without paying a fortune for what in reality wouldn't be a massive gain in performance, maybe 5% if lucky. In my opinion twin scroll is more adapted to a race setup rather than "street". Cant wait to see the graph either, Are we going for the 500 bhp as I know Voltan's made 480 bhp?

Throw in a rear ARB if you haven't already, Cheapest way of stiffening up the back end.

I have always copper greased bolts whether it be a wheel nut, strut bolt, drop link, lower arm etc, Simply for ease of taking them off next time. Particular anything on the underside of the car and with living in Scotland, The winter months & grit isn't too kind on bolts and nuts and there's nothing worse that having to cut/heat nuts & bolts off.

100% battery is dying.

I see you have a new engine/setup

It was Mot’d August then sorned, I’d imagine this was by the garage to avoid paying road tax. aprt from that it’s failed 2 mot’s for Nearside headlight not going dipped and a couple of tyres. There’s one concern that it had no oil in 2017, this could well be a coincidence and a lazy owner but I’d get that checked out if your going to view it.

If you've been searching for the combi/estate models you'll have probably noticed the rarity of them these day so they hold a slightly better value than the hatch. That sunroof is rare! I've only seen a handful of models with that extra in my time owning mine and none of them where the estate. Even with a private sale I'd expect to pay close to 4k for that as it seems a good example, again if it was a hatch version it wouldn't be over 4k private,70k is a fair mileage for the chain to be done so that's a bonus and as you said without the reg its hard to find out the history of the car. Ring/email the garage and notify them of your interest and request the reg and that way you can at least do a previous MOT history and see f its been off the road. Oil consumption is your only and biggest worry IMO as its a CAVE engine. Wear and tear such as the coils and plugs you can expect to change several times in your ownership as these eat them, Water pump I wouldn't get too worried about as its less than £70 part to replace if needed down the line. Cant say from the several groups mk2 fabia groups I'm on that I've seen it posted before however it does look a good example albeit the miles are higher than I would like myself,(Its been proven that these will run to 130k on the standard clutch and box if mileage isn't a worry) is it a daily driver and will you be commuting long miles?

Your choices are: 1. Rebuild your original engine with the revised oil squinters - rebuild and squinters easily £1500 minimum on an 87k engine 2. Purchase the newer lower mileage CTHE engine which rangers from £800-£1500 which will need also need coded in and labour, unless fitting yourself your probably not gonna get much change back from 2k

This is the reason I don't use locking wheel nuts....ever, And ive never had a wheel never mind a set of wheels stolen. In the past I've hammered a old socket over the locking nut to remove and if that doesn't work get the blow torch out however its almost impossible not to mark the bolt holes of the wheels with heat.

No need for a k & n, The old cave engines do that on Their own 😃

Its all dependant on the car & engine, If for example you've got a fabia engine with no leeway for extra power and your trying to push more horses out an engine between 50-70bhp by sticking a huge filter on it then of course your not going to notice any particular gains or noticeable gains. Run any sort of decent power and want to go further than stage 1 and there's not many company's that will advise a remap of the car without an upgraded filter. At peak rpm you will be strangling the car of air and eventually causing misfires. I've experienced this filter vs non filter on Audi's, Mazda's, Honda's and the Fabia hot hatches over the years and stick by my guns that they are beneficial, Its simply too large a market for it to be classed as fraud. As for heat soak, You would be referring to a cone filter. There are many other options available if you worried about heat soak.

If fuel consumption is something you worry about then I'm afraid you've picked the wrong car.😄

And like that! Took me a long while to source these ones, In the picture they are just test fitted at require a little modification.

£20 paintless dent puller removal tool with doo the trick.

Good news then as if its just the housing that needs replaced see here for a replacement and rough cost. If you are mechanically minded or know anyone who is....I'd give it a crack, After you drop the box out its only torque screws to get into it and replace, There's a possibility you could damage the seal whilst opening the mech, Often they are reusable if you take your time but if not they can be purchased too.

Did he mention if its the gearbox or the mech housing that's leaking? Hopefully can save you some money here or there.

Explain what's the issues are? Stuck in drive? flashing spanner on the MFD?Its not likely but it could be the clutch and not the DSG. You really need to get it plugged in and see what code its throwing up, If its not selecting reverse then that's the most common fault of a bent/damaged selector fork in the mech unit. Missing out gears tends to be the clutch pack however my bet is that your accumulator housing has cracked in the mech unit, causing the mech to lose all hydraulic pressure and effectively making the gearbox dead. Good news is......As above it can be fixed a lot cheaper now albeit depending on what code it throws up,New accumulator housing will cost you £40, New revised VAG selector fork is available to fix the damaged fork if the case. Again it has been proven that these DGS boxes aren't as complicated as once perceived, The clutch & most fix can be done in 40 minutes when the box is out.

Recently when taking mine to an auto electrician he realised that my rear drivers side door doesn't lock, The latch engages and you hear it attempt to lock however it doesn't lock.

Got sent this last night, Somebody's knocked videos of mine from youtube😄

Nah, But it will turn you into your neighbours worst enemy😄

I remember you saying you wouldn't be "modding" haha!

That its a Yaris & that Skoda currently has no performance hatchback in the market to rival others.