Mickmartin

Enjoy mate, had mine a for 3 years now.....Love and hate it at times however its served me well over the period but unfortunately I've not got the budget to make mine as fast as I would like

Sounds like your gear selector fork slider bearing has failed, It was a common part to fail on the DQ200 and a revised part was made ready available, if so at this point, the misaligned selector can damage the gear position sensor on the mechatronic unit and will require the removal of the complete mechatronic . Common symptons are: Grinding/crunching sound when selecting reverse. Complete loss of reverse gear. Flashing engine management light or PRNDS on dashboard. 6th gear does not engage. Fault code 06293 Function Restriction Due To Pressure Drop Fault code 01851 Stuck In Gear 6

5w30 for me also. In terms of the oil jets fix, looking at that above receipt that includes breather hose, new crank case pipe,new throttle body, PCV hose,sealant, health check & oil consumption test. I priced it up before and you can do the oil fix for less than £100 yourself as the new jets can be sourced for £15 a piece from Europe. x4 jets - £60 Sealant -£8 Providing you can clean up and salvage the rest from what you already have on the car and handy with a tool set, This perceived hard job can be done for what is effectively buttons.

Yep they all sit on a removable plastic tray, Unfortunate there's not a read made aftermarket tray available so it up to you to buy a universal tray and make brackets. I simply made mine out of "L" brackets and a rally style battery tray. Battery tray and brackets Old batteyr tray New tray installed

You need a 3rd party App/diagnostic reader to change it ie Carista, Odb Eleven or vcds.

Mine was so much easier! Sorry I couldn't help bud, See @AMD87 as I think he ran the rtmg catch can on tdi his for while.

Doesn't look there's much available apart from forge etc but as you mentioned it costs a fortune. Doesn't an EGR valve effectively do the same job on a diesel? Sorry I may be way off as I've never owned a diesel.

My bad sorry. What model is for out of curiosity?

I've always used ash hoses, Cant fault the quality. https://www.autosiliconehoses.com/

Doesn't the 1.2 tsi have just have a plastic timing chain cover you can pop off to check for tension & check the sprockets for wear and tear. If its 8.5 degree's then your vcds logs looks to say your timing is out its hit 9.0625 degree's which would out of your threshold indicating your timing is out. I'm unsure of the timing values on 1.2 tsi however vw's I've had in the past were 5 and-5 degree limits. I would be tempted to pop of the camshaft covers and check the camshaft alignment is correct, check chain tension and check sprockets for wear and tear. Your chain should never be allowed jump teeth unless there is an issue with the ,chain,tensioner or cams and therefor throwing your timing out. I've never seen a warning light for timing issues or stretched chain, usually its audible and you feel the chain rattling through the engine, Misfiring is more likely to bring on a warning light If caused by the chain. Hope this helps, unfortunately I've never had the chance to work on a 1.2 tsi.

ah edit you beat me to it.

Ahh edit, beat me to it.

I've got a spare swing radio here if you want it and if its compatible just pay postage and its yours.

They actually melt pistons if that makes it sound any better. It sounds like your hitting a limiter, Not a full blown closure but a safety limit. Does VCDS show the maximum torque per gear as its possible running at 1.5 bar has caused it to hit the limiter. I know fords use data from the boost to close the throttle body/plate so yous could be similar?

Not sure about engine codes etc of the R5 however having my head in the engine bay of and being a passenger in one, I can tell you the turbo is on the opposite side of the block, like the normal mk3 whilst the mk2 vrs is bolted at the front. Not trying to be a an mk2 fanboy here(I am really) but there's more than enough good examples to show how good that little engine is, Early on in the life of the twin charger nobody knew how to fix them without spending a fortune, the DQ200 was new and particularly skoda would just replace engines and 3rd party parts weren't ready available. Now for example mk2 waterpump can be replaced for £60 which once cost £500+, Mechatronics and gearbox issues than once cost thousands can be fixed with a simple £40 part, Members on here have paid in excess of £3500 to have the mech fixed. Still great news that the mk3 is now able to get the power it deserves, Now that there's examples of the mk2 vrs hitting 500bhp on the standard gearbox and clutch...….even more hope for the mk3.

That's the risk you take with buying anything second hand online, Particular from eBay/gumtree/Facebook. Mines certainly wasn't stolen.

Corners of radiator are common to go as its cheap plastic mounts rather than metal. Place a bit of carboard under the radiator overnight and check for drips.

Interesting opinion, Is that the general consensus from mk3 owners or just you? Nice figures , interesting build to follow, keep up the good work.

They’re always in Facebook marketplace for around that price , Paid £90 for mine (skoda)+ £10 for the code, Have also pointed other members a towards ones around the same price.Keep an eye out around your area, Guaranteed one will come up. Yes you will no doubt need a code - £10 It can be from any VAG format but they differ in start up screens and led colours but all will work. No steering wheel controls shouldn’t be an issue. Yes, you will need a DAB Ariel, GPS reciever and microphone if not included In your purchase. GPS reciever goes in behind the top glove box. Nope , No Android auto. Not sure of your area but there’s one sitting there at £130 on my first search, albeit VW.

RNS315, Can pick them up for around £100 these days. All you need plus OEM & Nav.

21mm swan neck nd the nut is reusable. Not sure how similar his is to my mk2 in terms of drive shaft and the also mk1, You can squeeze the strut out without touching the drive shaft if you have a spare jack handy.

Sorry boss.

Rear oxygen sensor, Downstream - second lambda sensor

Sounds good mate, I read the charger can run to 14 psi , 12 psi hits about 250 degrees , Gets hot down there so my only worry would be heat issues. Or do as Ruff has above and go full out Ive followed his build and his friend Volkan’s for a while now and they guys have blew it out the water with these engines, Some the builds coming of Turkey/Greece are insane to what we have, I don’t think there’s any twincharged 1.4 tsi’s in the U.K. over 400bhp?

Nice one mate, It’s such a small pulley in the first place as you’ll have noticed.Did you have that made? If you went balls out you could fit a twin screw charger (would be some effort) or just get rid of the charger completely, I’m sure RTMG’s drag cars have deleted the supercharger.