TMB

Hey mate. I would have thought that the sealant you used would have been fine. I did use standard silicone on mine and it's been fine ever since (about 5 years). Did you do your fronts as well? They leak as well and water can end up in the back.

Did you seal up to where the white line shows in this pic?.....

A 21mm spark plug socket works brilliantly for the strut damper top nut because you can use a spanner on the flats of the socket and insert an allen key down the middle to hold the rod.

No problem. Let us know how you get on

The needles need the proper factory white finish to diffuse the light along the needle. Removing the red on your current needles or painting them white won't work properly. The two LEDs behind each needle need to be working of course.

Interesting stuff. Fingers crossed 🤞

Possible coolant temp sensor.

I know some people on here have used self-tappers but mine are bolted so I haven't tried it myself. Not sure whether those rivets you link to would be any good as they are 2.4mm smaller.

Try removing fuse 40 and giving it a clean.

*superfluous post*

Rivets are 6.4X10.0mm. Part number N91078801. 10 rivets in each front door. Bolts were only used up until about 2003.

Is it a vRS? Has he put blue LEDs behind red needles? If so they will look rubbish. You'd have to get the white needles from a non-vRS cluster. They fit straight on. This type.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-MK1-Speedometer-Instrument-Cluster-6Y0920981-P23-405/153137832959?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AFabia+I|Plat_Gen%3AMK+I&hash=item23a7b9e3ff:g:nkgAAOSwAV5bcYqp If you do have white needles, I don't know why they'd be dim unless you have your panel dimmer turned down 😛

I once had a Skoda Estelle that ran fine until the engine was put under load like climbing a hill, then it would start 'coughing' which felt so much like an ignition problem but turned out to be a small piece broken off an exhaust valve. Would have put money on it being an ignition issue - especially as it ran fine until put under load.

Glad it turned out to be a much easier fix than taking the engine apart 👍

No, just the four brakes if there's no air in the ABS block. I find a Gunson Eezibleed works well to bleed them.

Yes the regulators are all the same. The rivets for the regulator to door panel are part number N90765701. Or, if you prefer, you can buy a whole new panel with regulator already fitted to it. You would need to swap your door speaker to the new panel, and the rivets for that are the same part number. When I did mine I just used nuts and bolts for the speaker instead of the rivets. Rivets for panel to door are N91078801. Some people have used screws etc but I have not personally done it as mine are factory bolted.

I imagine it wouldn't take much valve damage to make a three-pot engine run roughly. Hopefully a leakdown can shed more light. I've read that the timing chains can jump on these engines but the engine would surely run like crap all the time if that was the case. Be interested to see what your valve timing check shows.

Yeah it could well be the pump motor or it's wiring. You can get to the pump from under the front N/S wheel arch by removing or moving back the plastic arch liner. You need to remove the T25 Torx screws in the liner.

Sure are mate.

I would think 6Y2 959 565E JDY or 6Y2 959 565B JDY

No problem, hope the one you have bought works OK 🙂 I don't know why they designed it like that. The fact that they phased it out suggests that they knew it was a poor design.

^ Wow, look at the state of those!

If you have a look at this thread, it appears that the earlier type switch that you have was superseded.... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/95969-wing-mirror-button/

Nice one. Dr. Wino can now proceed 😁