D.FYLAKTOS

It's better to buy then as a ''set" which means the thermostat already is inside the housing with a new gasket.

On the radiator is the fan switch, this says to the fan when it's time to start spinning and when to stop. He reads the coolant sensor after the thermostat had fully opened and had engraved on it the temperature range for example 80-85 'C. The first sensor (the one with the blue ring) reads the coolant temperature before the thermostat.

I have posted few months ago 2 videos, it's very easy for a mechanic to do it and with a manometer he also can check if the injectors have a leak. If your regulator had major problem the car wouldn't start or you would have so much fuel and the mixture would be ''reach" and the spark plugs would show this to you immediately. As for the starting video sound is a little bit ''weak" (like the battery has not enough power) and i don't like the way that the starter spins the last seconds.

The manual showed a chard with temperatures from +40 till -30 ' C and all the available SAE of that time, from 5W-50 till the 20W-50 API SG, VW 501 01 or VW 500 00 The mechanics suggest 10W-40 semi synthetic, no one told me for 5W-40 but i have tested it once and i didn't liked the sound. +47 'C was the hottest but the summer +41 'C or +42 'C is very common here. As for coolant, having problem i saw two times 110 'C and one almost touched the limit but i manage to avoid the ''boom". For a period i had this problem: but i manage to solve it and now the temperature is fine. I had an oil pressure gauge many years ago but i remove it because it's switch cause me some problems. I don't remember now the indications of that time. The latest week i returned to Synthetic 10W-40, the car starts much better and works better on light sport driving in mountain roads. I have done the same test (parking, 5 floors underground etc) and the car after few seconds returned to 850 rpm while the TC-6 was showing the right instant fuel consumption. I will never again change the oil type (Synthetic), maybe my Trusty loves it. 😘

I have the original back home, didn't had engraved the initials of NGK only the Skoda code. My Felicia passed with this new Bosch Lamda 2 emission tests, one was in a garage at April 2021 when i asked for it in purpose and the second was in mandatory inspection (department of transportation) August 2021. I have photo plus the printed numbers from DoT, in few days i would post them. One strange thing happened, early morning with temperature around 8 'C and lot of moisture, turned the key the car started with idle around 950 rpm, in few seconds dropped at 850 rpm and i start my jurney. Arrived after 45 minutes, done some jobs and when i entered my car with one click higher temperature i turned the key and the needle went at 1100 rpm but i didn't wanted to wait. I tapped the pedal once and i start rolling. Maybe my Trusty loves only morning cold startings.

Sorry gentlemen i am on the move, i write via my smartphone. I will answer soon as posible. I will post some photos too.

They suggest semi synthetic 10W-40 and some say 15W-40 because ''it's old motor with lot of tolerances" etc. If you say ''i am using 10W-40 Synthetic" some will say that there is no need, it's extra money spend, it's going to burned easily etc but maybe none of them has Felicia now. As for the 5W-40 they will say that it's too thin, the motor would be noisy etc. In the past there were some guys which racing with Felicia but is extremely difficult to find and ask them. Outside in the road i have no problem, maybe in closed areas as the parking at work due to the sparse-not dense air my Trusty is grouching. Very soon i will have the chance to test my TC-6 on a highway plus measure the fuel combustion while travelling.

Is this good or it's an exaggeration? Even on winter mornings?

This photo was not from a Felicia, was just for informational purposes. I use toothbrush and paintbrush with hog bristle to clean this item, many times some dust or residues does not let it close properly so more comes in the the idle is not as it should be. @Joob : Have you ever tested a small hose attached to the front of the pressure regulator? If that is not pushed front properly and it's loosen or damaged then you have an unstable idling because your vacuum does not work properly.

Here are a photo of how you throttle should like as clean:

The way that the needle moves up and down for me shouts ''throttle" You should clean the central part of the throttle much better (i suppose you use cleaner spray) and spray contact cleaner to the plug of the throttle and as the cover is out spray some WD-40 to the accelerator wire. Your air filter is in good condition? 12.6 V are with cables on and key off or just without cables as is in the shelf?

You are right, when the internet came (and the auto forums) the situation changed, the sad thing is that there are not many Felicia here plus those few that they have them are older age and don't care about many things so you can not rely on them for informations. The tuning magazines don't write about Felicia, many new mechanics don't now many about them and the only source is forum like this because even in 2 Greek Skoda forum you won't find members with Felicia, everybody has Fabia-Octavia or newest models. The lowest here was many years ago -4 'C, usually we have 8-10 'C for winter morning and snows very rarely. About 12 years ago my throttle had a problem and the scanner show it, when i installed the new my mechanic run the scan tool, erase and error and sine then OK. I can not "put my hand over the fire" if the chip block some error codes but i have changed so many things that i wonder what can be wrong now? (i don't have change the gear box and the crank sensor)

Bosch. No it's the stock, maybe there is a leak from here? I have tested 3 times with 3 different instruments in 2 different garage-shops, no code errors. Even today with colder weather my Felicia turn to 850 rpm in few seconds, in the basement parked for 8 hours with much better temperatures (and not so cold ''metals") took 3:40+ second for two times. It's the density of air the problem? Many times this way: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/?app=core&module=system&controller=content&do=find&content_class=forums_Topic&content_id=499344&content_commentid=5603362 This will not raise the fuel consumption and increase the wear of the cylinder bore in a cold motor?

Mejor de esta forma.

Yes but Felicia's motor is an old design and the manufacturer suggests semi synthetic 10W-40. I took the risk to put 5W-40 but i heard the motor more ''noisy" while idling and i was afraid that i may do some kind of damage due to the tolerance that this old motor has. Back those days i wasn't member in any forum and i had no information than the Haynes manual so it was a risk for me to take such a decision and continue use it. Sorry but i have mention it many times and i thought you knew it. My car is modified in many sectors (motor-suspension-wheels-insulation-lights-interior etc) but with caution and no exaggerations. My problem is that after spring of 2018 (with all the modification installed years ago) suddenly started to have much more fuel consumption (in city driving only) than previous. ____________________________ Cold start test: Yesterday morning the car was parked outside all night long, he had light rain and cold here with 12 'C, i wanted to count the time that the motor will return from 1100 rpm to 850 rpm Turn the key and pushed the time's button on the smartphone but after few seconds my Felicia was ready to go ! I started driving nice and easy and when arrived at work i park it again in the same spot as previous time, 5 floors below. After i finished my shift i turned the key and my Felicia needed 3:40 minutes to come back to normal 850 rpm and the question is WHY? Out with cold air was ready after few seconds and later in the basement with higher temperature took so long? The ''metals" were cold because she was outside all night long and after 8 hours those ''metals" needed so much time? Maf, λ sensor, temperature sensor etc are new so why the motor needs more time to get warmed when the conditions are better?

Yes but: if there was a leak on the vacuum he couldn't understand it from the brake pedal? A dirty throttle sign is noticeable from the non-stable idling when the car stops in the traffic light (the needle drops sharply and comes back).

Because they are made for sport-racing use and not for every day, they don't have the additives of other oils. They are red colour and after a while you can hear the valves "ticking" plus pustons-bores became redish. I have done once test with 5W-40 oil but i wasn't happy and i stop it. For the last 15 years i use 10W-40 only. From 2018 i have made many ECU resets, battery rest, sensor plug and unplug tries etc bur i haven't reach the fuel consumption of the past. I hane the ECU chipped about 17 years ago and maybe there is a "bug" on the programme or needs to be updated or rhe ECU's cold start sector has problem or...i don't know what else to do !

Few months back i had a problem with the solenoid switch, turn the key nothing, turn the key OK crank. This ''game'' of ''i make contack-i do not'' continued 3-4 times in different days and one morning stopped completely and the car stayed motionless. The starter motor by the way was in excellent condition.

After the 2018 trying to solve the problem i changed the 3 sensors (2 of them were in bad shape) I correct the valves gap (was wrong) and i have found a mistake on the spark plugs reference = bad fuel combustion and bad mileage. The fuel consumptoin was improved plus the acceleration, the only thing that remained was the behaviour on the cold start. I began with the factory oil, then semisynthetic (i was inside the quarantee period so i took whatever the Skoda authorized mechanic put) but later i turned to synthetics (with one mistake with Motul Ester oil) as Valvoline and for years i had Amsoil. Then i put Castrol seminynthetic but i regret it, i didn't like the noise of the engine plus in higher rpm when i was driving ''sport style'' in mountain roads. Now i have Motul Technosynthese and i have noticed a difference with previous Castrol oil and today i will do another ''parking test'' with timer beside. I already have done another one when i was coming to work (the car was outside in cold weather) and i will have another one at weekend when i will travel in national road after so many months. The moment of truth is near....

Remove the + and the - cables from the battery poles Gentle pull out the pastic safeties of the 2 plugs of the ECU Remove the plus and spray them with contact cleaner, NOT with WD-40 Wait till they dry and put them back gently (the pins are prone to bent) Connect the + pole and then the - Turn the key to 1st scale and wait 1 minute Take off the key, insert it turn, wait till you hear the ''clack'' from the relay and start the engine. Let it idle for a while and then drive normally for few kilometres. This video plus another one i have post it when i was searching for the fuel pressure Read my post for this, will help you to check the pressure number of the regulator. By the way your mechanic has checked the engine starter inside? Nevertheless a service on that will help to avoid future problems.

Yes but: 3 different scanning tools (laptop, portable VCDS and OBD11) in 2 garage-shops never manage to find two crucial things: a wrong valve gap plus a non good spark plug compustion.

Have tou ever made a reset to your Ecu?

Suddenly in city (traffic) my Felicia started to have much more fuel consumptipn than all the other years. Especially from starting point till the temperature comes up to the propel lever i felt that something was going wrong. Smell (fumes) and sort of white smoke much more time than it should be. TC-6 is a board computer, among others shows the instant fuell consumption no matter if it's idle or top speed. You can see mine here: Maf-Lamda-temperature temperature sensor are new, throttle is clean,battery is good, valves and spark plugs are ok. I "raise" my Felicia with synthetic oil so maybe she don't like the semisynthetic that i was using for 2 years. 😋

For sure nothing is now as it was when i bought it but yesterday i done another test. The car was on the parking P10, turn the car on wait 15 sec, engage 1st gear and let it roll alone, the car start moving rolling to P7, P5, P3 (i don't touched the pedal) and when i reached the exit i let it steady to idle in purpose The needle was on 1100 rpm, i waited and when it dropped to 850 the timer on my cellphone shown 3:44 minutes, isn't that too much? Service, maintenance, repairs etc have been with a lot of attention and VAG code parts, no sloppy work. Any upgrades were till 2018, suddenly my car needs a lot of time to get warm (thus the little smoke on the first traffic light) and that means fuel consumption. The TC-6 shown 2,6 litres per hour when the car started and after 3,44 minutes shown 0,9 which is one click before the 0,8 litre per hour (that's the number when the car is warm and the idle is 850 rpm).

The needle rise up at 1100 rpm as it should be but the problem is that it takes too much time to lower at 850 rpm which is the proper limit. You will say just wait 20 sec and then start driving the car, yes but: I have made 3 times a test, the car was on a parking 5 floors below earth and the temperature of course was not as 12 'C as is outside the road but one clich higher. I started the car, waited 15 sec and engage the 1th gear, the car started to roll (the rpm were about 1100) and without touching the pedal started rolling to the exit, it moved 4 floors then exited (thanfully no traffic) and still rolled byhimself without me touching the pedal !!! I reached the end of the block, i accelerate gently to 2nth gear and when i stopped in the traffic light i noticed smoke coming from the exhaust wich means the fumes were still cold. When the traffic light turn to green i started, 2nth gear and as i reached the end of a small uphill then in the next traffic light the idle was 850 rpm. Something is going on and i don't know what, it takes too much time from the 1100 rpm to drop down to 850 rpm.