D.FYLAKTOS

Thermostat sensor, has a distinctive Blue ring around. It's a brand name? When did you installed this one? This is a radiator switch, what 'C scale is yours? 80-85, 85-90, 95-100 ?

Update: The TC-6 comes with it's own temperature sensor, since i already have 2 small digital gauges in the central console for in-out temperature i have the thought to make this as: ''incoming air sensor" inside the air filter box. it's already has a hole and i can use it to put a small screw and attach it inside the (modified) air filter box. One tiny hole, the cable comes out and i will ask from the electrician to make an extension of the existing cable and a small plug so if i had to remove and carry away the air filter box this wire won't be a restriction. I can't think any other use of that sensor.

Thse are the thermostats !!! I said about the radiator switch, mine is 80-85 'C in purpose due to the hot climate and Mountain roads routes. I had a similar problem like you, first i changed the radiator switch with one with lower scale plus the coolant sensor with one with Blue ring the mechanic had installed one with Yellow ring, that damned never worked properly and cause me nothing than problems with high temperature indications in the cluster gauge.

In 1.3 the thermostat first opens at 87-88 'C, yours? Maybe it's wrong type and opens much latter? Since GR climate is hot i have installed 80-85 'C thermoswich, maybe you have a wrong type ie 92-98 'C thus the initial overheating symptoms?

You have removed the air bubbles from the system? Checked if there a small leak from the expansion tank cap or any hose? The antifreeze ratio in the coolant is?

When you say "overheating" the temperature exceeds the 100 'C in the first fan scale?

Some manufactures have done not rigid strut braces https://justjap.com/cdn/shop/files/cusco-front-strut-brace-type-alc-os-aluminium-carbon-fits-mazda-rx-7-fd3s-125.jpg?v=1713134137 In case of side hit (road accident) they ''brake'' and save the opposite side from deformation but in some supercars they have a strong-rigid Δ or X style. https://gpower-usa.com/cdn/shop/files/M4CSL-StrutBrace-2_1024x1024_jpg.webp?v=1712607924 The common believe here is that Felicia in rear has semi-rigid axle so a rear strut brace won't help at all.

+ 1 👍

The yellow and the orange (which are alone in the middle) are for the radiator switch.

The cables in the ECU are exposed, no plug cap. This means that dust, moisture, water etc are coming.

For the 1.3 the Skoda accessories catalog was offering an ''inox'' look one, the one that i have. For 1.6 is that black that @Felicia98noob has. https://mathewsons.blob.core.windows.net/stock/13380-19-medium.jpg?v=63831253507810

In GR with Alex a/c there is only this: No relays.

Behind a triangle plastic cover with 2 screws.

If you connect the 2 cables that are attached to the radiator switch (it's like to take a command from the system) the fan must start spinning.

First you can try by youreself, there is a bolt in the centre when you remove the horn, pull out gently the steering wheel and put it back where you want (the wheels must be straight). Otherwise you have to go to a repair shop for this task, the mechanic will calibrate it in few minutes, the cost is 20 euro here. It's difficult to reach it where it is, 2 clamps at least plus one that keeps it in place. The electrician can do it opening when the key is On 1 scale or turn on-off any time you want, in GR i older years the electrician was ask you first of all ''with the key on or not"? Some guys want to have music in their car even when it's off, it's risky because if you forget it can ruin your battery. You can not make it smoother or harder, all you can do it's to adjust it lower of higher position compared to the other pedals, there is a bolt in the end of it's wire inside the engine bay.

1.3 MPI was in the Felicia 1.4 MpI was in the Fabia, have you made an engine swap?

Check also the fuse box, sometimes dust-corrosion-not proper contact create problems. Contact cleaner (the No Oil edition), light brush is a solition.

First what you can see from outside (engine bay, fuel pump connections etc) and IF everything fail you have to remove the dashboard. Check each gauge individually, i will try when i get home some electrical diagrams.

Bonsoir Monsieur, comment allez-vous ? Marseille (France) ,for sure we the GR know your city. https://as1.ftcdn.net/v2/jpg/04/77/95/86/1000_F_477958646_ZtEBjrkH8YP5U8RZnKOXHhZPkojcInK2.jpg You have to check all the plugs first (good contactivity, possible corrosion etc), then for wires (twisted, cutted a bit etc). Changing the gauges is the last option.

Hm...before the heat core of after the expansion tank?

I found something similar: In-Line Coolant Filter Radiator Hose Filter Kit for 1 1/2" hose If you are installing on a dual heater application you will need to install two filters one before each heater core. The coolant filter needs to be installed into the inlet hose of your heater core and is easy to install.

The first filter has a wire mesh too?

Just for the records.

If you say so, this way.

I forgot to check my father-brother car when i was on vacation to check if there are any black spots on their expansion tanks. 100% stock cars, nothing aftermarket and normal use no Sport style.