D.FYLAKTOS

1.3 MPI was in the Felicia 1.4 MpI was in the Fabia, have you made an engine swap?

Check also the fuse box, sometimes dust-corrosion-not proper contact create problems. Contact cleaner (the No Oil edition), light brush is a solition.

First what you can see from outside (engine bay, fuel pump connections etc) and IF everything fail you have to remove the dashboard. Check each gauge individually, i will try when i get home some electrical diagrams.

Bonsoir Monsieur, comment allez-vous ? Marseille (France) ,for sure we the GR know your city. https://as1.ftcdn.net/v2/jpg/04/77/95/86/1000_F_477958646_ZtEBjrkH8YP5U8RZnKOXHhZPkojcInK2.jpg You have to check all the plugs first (good contactivity, possible corrosion etc), then for wires (twisted, cutted a bit etc). Changing the gauges is the last option.

Hm...before the heat core of after the expansion tank?

I found something similar: In-Line Coolant Filter Radiator Hose Filter Kit for 1 1/2" hose If you are installing on a dual heater application you will need to install two filters one before each heater core. The coolant filter needs to be installed into the inlet hose of your heater core and is easy to install.

The first filter has a wire mesh too?

Just for the records.

If you say so, this way.

I forgot to check my father-brother car when i was on vacation to check if there are any black spots on their expansion tanks. 100% stock cars, nothing aftermarket and normal use no Sport style.

The climax was going from top to buttom, was a snapshot. Was an (general rule) example of how the hot incoming air affects the performance.

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Since we talk about covers, air intakes etc i have found this. For every 10 'F colder air some engines can take 1 HP. As for the cutted cover take a look how it was and how is now. In the past i couldn't work-maintenance-check things beneath it as i can do now. By the way i saw a spot from the exhaust manifold that has been ''uncovered'', i will fix it soon.

Here some photos from the side. For sure it's not ''perfect'' but tall the previous expansion tanks were in terrible condition.

I took some photos this afternoon, i shed some light with a led pocket lighter and i saw that still there is some sort of muck stuck in the bottom of the expansion tank. It's not on the walls, is in the bottom where there is a hole which send via hose coolant in the radiator, the cap is very clean, no detritus at all. I didn't had a long screwdriver or similar tool to scratch that muck to see if it's ''removable". I have to admit that i am a bit disappointed, i thought that the whole content of the expansion tank would be almost clear.

I have take a measurement from radiator hoses (external touch with the digital thermometer's metal nose). Looked very normal, i will post photos tomorrow.

In that test the 80 'C were in the cavity between the fuel injectors, it's few cm below the Heat Shield covered area (on the top of that area are the 60 'C measurement).

Here are some measurements that i took few days ago, keep in mind that i am not interested for an ''ultimate test'' nor for ''exactly numbers", i am just trying to see the effectiveness of the Heat Shield so 1-2 'C more or less it's not significant for me. With Heat Shield left-right side and without. The difference is about 20 'C which leaves me satisfied and i think this would be reflected in the Fuel Consumption in long term use. ____________________________ Here is in the front of the air manifold Heat Shield which has a bigger gap, it's not so tight as in the two braces.

Another very interesting video about High-Low (and Wake) pressure surfaces in car's body from Julian Edgar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1ZWBlHhR9s I don't regret even for a second for cutting that part of plastic, helped me to install easier the Heat Shield, lubricated easier the cable, cleaning the throttle quicker etc. Unfortunately i didn't had the chance yet to locate the exactly point (behind the bumper) that brings fresh air inside the air filter box but i think the extra hose in the grill mesh did it's job. The summer Fuel Consumption tests are over, photos and comments in a new topic.

These? Mixture - water/coolant concentrate! Observe concentration ratios according to repair manual and climatic conditions. • The frost resistance of the coolant must be guaranteed down to -25°C, • in countries with arctic climate conditions -35°C

The gap is on the description of the spark plug, nevertheless you have to check them one by one with the special tool. https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/choosing-the-right-spark-plug-gap-tool.html https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/Spark-Plug-Gap-Tip.html

Gear oil change, gear rubber bushing change and coolant flush in the same day at the repair shop.

With 20W-50 in 300msec and with 20W-60 in 100msec. Tested, approved and with certification in a frame for the wall in the house.

I don't have HEPU G12 with me now.

I will post some photos There when i return, let's hope that i wouldn't find any signs of muck.