D.FYLAKTOS

For sure that helped a lot, all these residues from 24 years of use (and all these additives) made the situation worst but if few weeks i have a summer trip (vacations) and then will see what the G12 does in hot days compared to G11. I should have made a coolant flush and maybe the consistent use of G11 all these years wasn't the best idea.

The gear changes are smoother and the ''click" sound every time i engage is much lower than before. The original gear oil (i don't know what brand) was worst than Motul and that Castrol is better from both of them. The new is Dark Green but still in GR the majority have that ''olive beige" one. There is another one, the No Transmax and the Syntrax but they told me this is discontinued. Here is the whole list https://www.bestprice.gr/cat/7115/valvolines-atf/f/1_23824/castrol.html?q=75+90

No gears jammed and the rotor can spin freely by hand, it's all black and stings awful, that odour even after 24hours can not disappear, i can not have it my balcony any more, my wife grunge that the whole place smells like sh@t. @nta16 I think i will have to use the ''manual'' procedure, every gas station in GR beside the pumps has a bucket with water-soap and a stick wiper blade, Free use from the customers. https://envirol.gr/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/post_prathrioΕΚΟ_06-1024x683.jpg https://www.eea.gr/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/KAUSIMA_KAYSIMA__4_.JPG

Here is that damned VIKA motor, still stings and i will send it to recycle bin today. Winding is totally burned.

Update: The test that i was waiting for many days, i had to test the new coolant, the new gear box oil and of course to check for another time if that work inside the air filter box worth it. On the way to the gas station i heard a noise from behind of the car, i slow down a bit and a scooter passed by and the driver shouted to me ''the tyre, air". I know that is is a trick for street gangs to make you stop and as you come out of the car the other member goes to the passenger side and snatches whatever you have in the seat. I checked my mirrors, no one is coming from behind and the scooter driver didn't stopped and moved away so that was not a trick. I arrived in the gas station and i saw that my rear left tyre was almost flat, first i thanked (in my mind) the unknown Pakistani driver for the notification, fill gasoline 98 octane and air in my tyre and i asked my self, was a puncture or a valve air lose? I had to make a test, so do i abandon everything and i return home i moving on? I took the decision to move on, i made another 2 stops in gas station to check the air in the tyre but no problem which means there is a tiny hoe (and after 1-2 days the tyre will get flat) or a kid as a prank remove some air from my tyre. More on this in few days when i will go to the tyre repair shop for further inspection. As for the test was: City traffic, boulevard, Mountain road for a while (no U turns etc), Highway and City traffic. i began with 92023 Km on the odometer and finished with 92073. Again wonderful feeling with acceleration, engine noise as in the other 3 tests so i can say now guaranteed that the work inside the air filter worthed and paid back, i did the best thing. Photos and results from the Fuel Consumption soon, as you may have read i had a disaster plus that problem with the air so i am not calm now.

First impressions from the HEPU G12: The cold start (the car was parked outside in the road but in shadow) took about 1 minute so the car reach the idle much faster that the usual 3:40 but it's too early for final conclusions, more in future cold starts especially in the Winter. Same route, same speed, same time and the temperature of the coolant raised one click faster than G11 which means (together with the 1st) that the car is getting warmed one click sooner and that is good for fuel consumption. After at least one hour on the road the temperature was a bit lower than the G11, in the console gauge was 84 'C instead of 86 'C which was with G11. No overheating and the needle in City traffic (in the factory gauge) didn't raised so high as with the G11 and the console gauge show that the highest temperature of the coolant in that 50 Km test was 90 'C. It's too early but as for start i am very happy with the new G12, to abandon the G11 looks that was a very good idea and as we say here ''Better late than never".

An 50Km tyest today with high temperatures, in the end i opened the cap and look inside. Still some tiny black grains (no glitters) hovering inside the expansion tank but i could expect for everything to be ''crystal clear" since the car is 24 years old. After few months i will make an inspection again to see if there is any muck on the side walls.

First impressions from the new Synthetic gear oil: One click quieter changes that before, very positive feeling, tested in reverse too. Although it's too early i am very happy, Skoda says change after 60.000 Km but i will do a change after 30-40.000 Km.

Update: Today i done an about 50 Km distance test for the new G12 coolant and the new gear box oil, that test began with problems (more on this in the other topic) but in the end of the test while i was in the Highway i had the idea to test the rear wind shield wiper. I press the lever, a ''Gkkkkk" sound heard, the wiper moved about 20cm and then stopped ! Immediately i start slandering the Chinese but the most terrifying thing was that after a while a bad smell came to my nose, my first thought was the coolant, i thought that some of this spilled outside the lose cap so the smell comes from the engine bay. The cabin start smell badly, full of agony arrived home, opened the hood and nothing, everything was fine. I went to the trunk and the bolt of the wiper blade axis was extremely hot, like something was burning beneath it. In a phrenitis situation i grab my tools (see @Thefeliciahacker ,that's why i have them al the time in my car), remove the cover and i saw something like light smoke and a bad odour was everywhere. 😲 The wiper blade motor was extremely hot, i couldn't touch it with my bare hands, i was afraid for fire so i wear my gloves, unbolt everything and pull that damned motor out. Except that bad smell i has a ''varnish'' spilled from the rotor all around, i cover the hole from inside with 2 layers of tape, wipe everything i could see, spray a car perfume and close the panel. It's already an hour and that cursed f****n motor still is hot and smells, i removed the cover and everything inside is burned, 100% black. Photos from this tomorrow. @nta16 i think i will never install a new motor again, i will leave it as is, after that terror that i lived today i prefer to don't have a rear wind shield wiper.

Maybe: £10 for airbag light and £35 for a full scan.

In few days i will make an inspection to the new expansion tank and let's hope that i won't find anything.

Few examples: https://www.trop.gr/diagnostika-autokiniton/elm327/elm327-bluetooth-obd2-eobd-ergaleio-sarwshs-autokinhtou-detail https://toofast.gr/diagnostiko-aytokinitou-elm327-wifi-obdii-mini https://www.public.gr/product/home/ergaleia/organa-metrisis/diafora-organa-metrisis/diagnostiko-obd2-elm327-me-wifi-gia-android-kai-ios/MRK1259047?srsltid=AfmBOooARid0DeKM0pftdWhbUZAdQT1PZHEZyq_mTo1VqwY2FTwm7W_Wb5w These don't work in OBD I port of Felicia, different protocol, can not be recognized. The OBD 11 can but is expensive and has not those fancy applications. Any VW Group repair-shop here can scan a Felicia with his VCDS, erase errors etc, it's Free of charge.

We have OBD I (1) so OBD 2 scanners and phone applications don't work in Felicia.

The side plastics must be removed.

😏

No, it's dirty, contaminated so it's a bad luck item. The external temperature is hi here, about 42 'C so i can not drive without a/c. I have to make a road test to see how the G12 works compared to the G11.

Remove both connectors from battery poles for at least 1 hour and: 1) Press the brakes, push switches for alarm-lights etc to "empty" any remain or the electrical current. 2) with a cable connect red and black main cable, this will help to empty the whole circuit from current remains (capacitors). 3) Remove the fuse for the car electronic system, it's on the left side, in the driver's manual you will find which is. 4) Unplug the 2 connectors from the ECU, check for corrosion signs. You need to drive for about a week so the ECU will "learn" your driving style and make adaptions.

Reseting the ECU does not means that the errors will vanished (problem is fixed), if there is a cause they will show up again.

Few years back sometimes i had a delay in cracking, not consistent but from time to time. One night although i had power i was barely manage to start the car, next morning no crank at all, "dead" and luckily i was parked beside the local repair shop. I thought was the starter but was the solenoid, i change it. As for the switch i spray 1-2 times per year contact cleaner with no oil and i clean the key grooves with cloth.

Last photos before goes to recycle bin. Let's hope that i will never see again an expansion tank like this in my car.

Same type, G11. I change it every 2 years.

You had problem with my 40% and now you say you had 30% ?

I had from about 2007 in my system a 20-25% percedage of antifreeze.

The mechanic made wrong in the calculation, now i about 45% G12 and distilled water. I am inpatient to see in hot summer that combination how it will work, i have about 18 years to work in such a high antifreeze percentage.

I forgot to add the word ''here", especially the young mechanics consider that any VW group car must have at least G12 bcause ''the sensors read better". 😄