D.FYLAKTOS

@Thefeliciahacker i left my parents home at 1986, i know my finances better plus suspension-tyres-exhsust-engine etc are essential parts and i have to pay them if i want to keep driving fast. The windscreen wiper motor is not and does not worth 192 euros. A pass another Felicia before an hour and i grab the windscreen wiper base, no tolerance looked solid, yours it the same? No tolerance at all?

Inside the 5th door? No as far i could see and i saw a lot because i worked in that area (insulation, cables, nylon layer, pull out-install the motor etc), the only sector that i could see was the end of the 5th door where the drain holes are. If you grab the rear windscreen wiper and move it (a bit) up and down it moves or it's steady? How was in the past, the metal washer was ''hollow" ,not flat and not strong and the tragic was that i couldn't use the old bolt because a mechanic ruin it trying to remove the broken thread.

Not obvious but maybe was a combination of the main thread and the thread of the bold, together start ruined but not naked eye perceived. With the teflon tape things got much tighter but not as it should be, i applied also a silicone (for aquarium) to prevent any future leak from rain water. Installed a new wiper blade,made a first test (the new motor looks much stronger than the old) and here are the results: and The sound of the motor is normal, it's one click faster but i don't know if the whole ''system'' was solid or not because all these years i never try to check it if it's was loose or not.

@Thefeliciahacker you start talking like your ''sticky", if i had the money to buy another car i wouldn't be here in the Felicia sector, i have other family expenses. Wait few years and you have wife-kids and ALL the house expenses on you then you will realize ''by the hard way" that 192 euro for a windscreen wiper don't worth. The problem is that the bolt finished all the way down but it didn't tighten up, no gap to fill, went all the way down and then started swirling itself. In the back the motor has screw (inside that black rubber integument) and in the front metal and rubber washer-car body-rubber and metal washer-plastic cap-bolt. When 2 rubber washers involved i don't think that the whole combination could be solid.

@nta16 The old as i already have wrote couldn't be repaired for 2 reasons so i had to buiy a new. @Thefeliciahacker Your father has a Brera which is not a supercar, no need to mention it every time, no one is impressed by this. https://stillrunningstrong.com/car-specs-problems/alfa-romeo/brera/ 192 euro are ''too much'' for a 24 year old Felicia non-crucial part. Take a look the VIKA, had 2 metal washers and the 2 necessary bolts. According to the old was: one metal and rubber washer-car body-rubber and metal washer-plastic cap-bolt. https://i.imgur.com/t4HGugV.jpg I have done everything i had to do, put the bolt, tighten and nothing...the bolt was in the end of the thread but there was to "resistance", i could screw the bolt with my hand no need for tool. I tried again and again but nothing, although there was no thread left the bolt wasn't reached the final end, it just turning around and the whole structure was a bit loose. I start slander my decision to buy this VIKA (and the chinsese metallurgy), i packed everything, took my motorcycle and went to the local market to buy a new bolt. I visited at least 12 stores and the answer was always negative and i am talking for stores specialized for screws-bolts, parts for plumbers, i visited stores with locks-knobs, stores with tools but every single one had a ''NO" to tell me when i was showing the sample. No mm or inch metric system, bolt like these can be found there or there (parts for electricians) https://www.kafkas.gr/ilektrologika/plastika-spiral-koutia-chalyvdina/eidikon-efarmogon/solines-metallikes/exartimata-metallikon-solinon/cosmec-exagono-paximadi-m20-iso_297374/ i returned back quite irritated, I laid out the tools again trying to find a solution and all i could think was to use teflon tape around the thread and try again, things went better but not ideal. On the other hand since the motor is based in one end in a small screw (inside that black rubber integument) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2024_03/-(3).thumb.jpg.ce52f39699b97ef220631aa371031c59.jpg and the hole on the car's body is one wider than the thread (old motor photo) inevitably there would be a ''slack" and things couldn't be very tight for example as a bolt in a wheel or in front fender etc. I can't think something else to do, i don't want to push things more because i don't trust that chinsese thread, any suggestions?

https://www.autodoc.gr/magneti-marelli/13820850 165,13 € plus shipping https://kritosparts.gr/Part/WIPER-MOTO-097858043/eG18097858043 196,02 € I think you got the idea, who will spend so much for this item? Nevertheless i have bought the VIKA and install it, the task wasn't easy because i had to work in the street, under the sun, lot of African dust, standing upright so much time with cars-trucks passing very close to me. This is for you @Thefeliciahacker who believe that we mustn't have tools in the trunk but on the other hand ''do the things by your own". Take a look how close the other vehicles were, one wrong step by me and...♿

Here is the Original (old) and the new VIKA (chinese) As you can see there are some differences. It's not a big issue, i will reverse the plug and let's see how the new fits and works.

Yes, here it is mine. A characteristic example of what's happening here, the cars are parked as they should be and a moron raised the windscreen wipers, imagine this to happen some times more and the driver would have a problem as mine. We know about the term ''bonnet'' but we prefer the ''hood" when we speak about cars although we use the word "hood" when we speak about dress code. 😁 Today was a nightmare, i have installed the new motor but with many difficulties, i will post photos soon.

There are holes in the 5th door (trunk) for the license plate, from the rear badge, maybe there is a leak from the rear windscreen wiper bolt, sometimes the trunk window gasket has a leak (it happened in me too) and water is collecting in the bottom that's why the factory opened 2 draining holes and put a parallelogram nylon cover behind that wooden panel to protect it. Even the other 4 doors of the car have that nylon cover, i will post soon from mine to see it better.

Here an example, it's behind this cover of the trunk door (aka 5th door here in GR) https://d3bsbe39k8p2a0.cloudfront.net/images/product/6/9/2/4/0/28_1800x1255.JPG 097440623 VAG cover for door inner panel rear lid trim panel (leatherette/cloth) https://www.sbazar.cz/tsvoboda.51/detail/175072292-nova-tapeta-5dveri-skoda-felicia-seda-097440623 I put new nylon behind so any rain drops that may pass inside won't touch that wooden panel and will be driven to drain holes that the door has.

Update: I am without rear windscreen wiper for few weeks, i faced rain two times and to be honest my hand reached the lever by habit. Yes, my car is 1% better looking and has 1% better aerodynamic 😄 compared to @Thefeliciahacker car plus i am one click lighter due to the motor-bracket absence so i can beat him (AGAIN) in acceleration and MPG 😁 but i miss that part and i think i am going to buy and install it soon.

I was afraid of this and i asked for a cleaning few years back. Now i am using filter for kitchen hoods as an extra layer which stop everything (hairs, leaves, dust etc) but in my mind i have the thought to make a 3D printing oval shape receiver like a Casserole Dish with ### inside like this and add a filter like this after i cut it properly. For sure it's not like a stock constructior but it's far betetr than sponge.

Yes but what about the leaves, hairs from dogs etc, some of them may pass inside, where end-up? On the evaporator?

What's the benefits of G12 instead off G11 in our engine?

The weird is that in User Manual says: "TL-774 C Red colour 50% ratio" but D is red and not C and out engine it's an 1994 design.

At Winter where there is no a/c? They say that moisture on the sponge creates for in the windshield.

Yes but now the water goes in, the plastic tunnel ends inside the cabin (2 holes behind the seats).

So the G11 blue and the G12 red did not cover (at 30%) your expectations and you choose the G13 in the same ratio as better?

No sponge filter?

You had G11 (Green) before and for many years. For you the ''lowest'' ratio that can be used in Felicia is 30% and the ideal is?

@Thefeliciahacker If you had 30% G11 and 70% distilled water you think could face lubrication and corrosion problems?

The worst temperature all these 24 years for my Felicia was one day only at -4,5 'C in the year 2002 if i remember correct. Today i had a 200 Km trip, half in Mountain Routes and half in Highway (speed 100-120), the needle never touched the 90 'C line in the dashboard gauge, i don't have overheating problems, just that ''concern of mine" in Cold start.

@hzoltaan What gear oil are you using now? Have you ever use an additive like this? https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/pro-line-getriebeoel-additiv-p000070.html#5198 https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/mos2-antifriction-for-gears-p000009.html#tab-label-description-title

If you had 30% G11 and 70% distilled water you could face lubrication and corrosion problems? I think the minimum requirement is 20% antifreeze and covers till -8 'C. I have the assumption that if i have more antifreeze in my coolant (now it's too ''weak'') the engine will get hotter one click faster and will reach the 92 'C sooner than now. I don't know if this is right or wrong, thus i am asking.

@Rooted My primary concern is in Cold start which of the 4 combinations will reach first the 92 'C Watter Wetter says "Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature" but in small routes in City i don't think i have that issue. @Warrior193 I never liked that 50-50 ratio, some drivers (which don't like to search things) and even some mechanics-seller promote it.