D.FYLAKTOS

Yes but remember Felicia from factory has this The upper oval shape metallic lip (which brings fresh air into the cabin) is narrower than the sponge and does not seal properly plus the sponge let some dirt to pass from the sides. For years i make complains that i have some odour (like burned coolant for example) inside the cabin. A pollen filter (fitted with patent which would seal properly with he upper metallic lip) couldn't make things better that now?

My dilemma is: should i make the upper metal lip (of the hood) to touch on top of the pollen filter or should it have a gap to circulate the air of the engine room? In the 1st case it will get mostly fresh air but it will be more difficult to dry and smell like mold will come to the cabin. In the 2nd case, it will dry more easily, but air with smells will pass with from the engine room to the cabin. Gentlemen, what you suggest?

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/422277-water-coming-in-though-pollen-filter/ I have also read this but my question is how fast a wet pollen filter (exposed as i want to put) can get dry?

In mine, water (rain-car washing) falls onto the charcoal sponge and i wonder if i place in it's position a cabin filter will get dry easily or not? The diversion of the water is small.

Here was my previous used ECU. The ECU is not a ''plug and play'' item, the programmer must make too many adjustments after fitting (among them is the immobilizer) fuel ratio etc plus a test on Dyno-road. Yes the programmer can do it but this will turn the car back to previous decades which anyone could start the engine easily. It's a Safety feature.

Fault Finding pdf. Fault Finding.pdf

That's a mistake, you can not know what problem that ECU has (burned, slight damaged, overpowered, moisture, pin corrosion etc). Only a programmer must buy it since will get a six months warranty plus will make the fitting-adjustments etc. I have lived that nightmare in the past, cheap used ECU bought by distance = trap. Hall sensor you mean the Crank sensor, did you check beneath of it if there is an empty space on the flywheel? Tomorrow i will post a photo from the pins of ECU,now it's late and i am on cellphone.

So from where gets only fresh air? From the grille of the hood among air for sure will pass some water and yes will drain through holes but even in surface the filter wouldn't get wet even a liitle bit and temporary?

So actually is 42 internal.

Mine is 45mm (outside) We measure internal or external?

Fellow Skodians, i see in the below video where the pollen filter is (well, the fact that the leaves fell in again and the filter was inserted from above is ridiculous) in the Octavia 1U and I have the following question: Where it is, doesn't it get wet at once from rain and car washing? How does it dry? do you wait in a natural way, for example sun or a warm engine bay? When it's soaked, don't you breathe moist air? Isn't it "unhealthy" let's put it that way plus foggy windows? I want to make a modification in my car (Felicia) and based on this i have thought of something similar (pollen filter beneath the hood grille) but immediately i had this question. A pollen filter that is exposed like this, let's say, how long does it last before changing?

Gentlemen, i have in my Felicia those Tecnomagnesio 14" wheels with 175-60 tyres : From the side look like this: Unfortunately the spokes are prone to scratches in the pavement because i park the car in the street every night almost with not enough space from the concrete, things are not comfortable especially if other cars are behind you waiting so it's very easy to make a scratch to the spots that i am showing with arrows because they stand out a bit. If a let big space between the car and the pavement there is a risk for a truck to scratch my doors or hit the wheels, the roads here are not like USA country and every night i struggle to find a space to park properly. It's already time to paint them (no cracks and never crashed them) but soon or latter the scratches will show-up so my thought is to give them for a modification so they will look like these: The mechanic will cut and weld the 6 spokes a bit inside so there would be a gap between the spokes and the rims. I can protect the outside of the wheel with a stripe which are made for this cause and the spokes can not be scratched while parking but: 1) Is it safe? Yes the guy which make the project is the most famous here in Greece with a repair-shop dedicated to wheels but i still feel that i have to ask other drivers first 2) there would be an Offset change? This will make the car turn in different way that i have use to drive? New wheels means: 145 euro per unit plus installing = at least 620 euro so forget a new purchase.

I don't know if these can help you.

Sorry i saw this too late. Have you checked the wires-plugs at the rear? Sometimes they unpluged a bit-corrosion etc.

I saw your first post in my smartphone while i was at work, i went to a corner so i wasn't visible from the camera, wear my vision glasses and as i was standing upright tryied to write a quick post to help you although english are not my first language. I have the same car with you but i can't do anything more, i am sure other members will help you to solve your problem.

https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/manufacturer/Škoda We are not prophets or magicians and this is not a Court of Law with he ''ask the question" rule to the examined witness.

Why you spend money changing things without reason? Many of us have done this in the past and it was wrong...very wrong. Have you check the vacuum hose? Your mechanic check the fuel pressure regulator? The spark plugs are ok? Your throttle is clean? The VCDS shown any errors?

Check my posts, you will find photos of damaged cables from my coolant sensor, mine has Blue ring. Check your spark plugs. Cleaning the injectors and checking the fuel pressure regulator is a "must" since the car wasn't maintenend. @Thefeliciahacker had a similar problem with you, has a thread for this with videos.

I have a 1.3 GLX made at late 1999 months and bought it at 2000. Those days you could find Eibach anti-roll bar in the market, now the stopped produce it https://www.eibach-shop.com/skoda-c-85510.html no modifications, fitted as it should be. The strut brace was bought from the local Skoda dealer (original accessoire). You may lose some comfort but if you are a sport driving guy that combination will help you a lot, if you start diving fast in mountain road without them the car will start floundering like a boat in a heavy sea. After some turns you will start feeling fear and unsecure so you will start slow down.

That was about 20 years ago in a famous exhaust maker, everything changed from the manifold till the tailgate, the steel that used was ''high'' class and not cheap that's why all these years i never had a problem. I told him that i want the car to be ''updated'' to have some HP gain in high rpm (combined with ECU chip plus sport air filter), i also changed the catalytic converter with a metallic (was ceramic). I lost some torque in medium rpm but i got some gain in high rpm, with 2rd or 3rd gear in the road (mountain) i could reach the 6100 rpm in sport driving (i don't like illegal racing drag style). Keep in mind that those days were with no internet, no auto-forums etc so the informations were coming mainly from magazines. Today's technicians now use computers and make things more ''calculated'' although now the steel is not always the best and with the economic crisis none Felicia (or old car) owner has the money to pay for such a custom A-Z work.

Stability, especially in V\ style turns (here we call them Zig-Zag) something like Moose test. The car does not have the same inclination as the stock, is a bit stiffer and helps you lot in Sport style driving. I have them both and never regret that i installed them. How Sway bars work: https://consummatedriver.blogspot.com/2018/08/how-do-sway-bars-work.html?m=1 Strut bar https://www.sprracing.com.tw/strut-bar 😎

I have a custom exhaust from A to Z, if there is a gain is in high rpm but any exaggeration would be ''paid of'' in low-medium rpm. As about the ''weight reduce'' in some things inside the motor is a know procedure but the last which must asked about this is the crank. For example i have heard stories about reducing weight from the flywheel but without balancing this with the crank isn't a risk for long term use?

This is from the manual (with a correction by me) to show you how it is from the factory. This is from the hood, from that opening feeds with air the sponge filter, Has a gap. In dimensions it is smaller, it's 34x7,5cm when the sponge filter is 36x10cm and the plastic case is 38x13cm. If the guy removes the gasket and modify the remaining plastic case or make an outside one removing the ( and ) sides and make them vertical would be great?

Unfortunately i haven't manage to solve the problem, take a look of how my cabin filter is today: Except the hair from dogs-cats, a bee and many other things. This is from an older snapshot, the sponge can not stop rain etc and to the sides i have this: which means that i breath dust and dirt. I have an idea, if i go to a guy which makes polyester, would be great to ask him to modify (by heat) the plastic case that the car has or make for me an outside rectangle case so i can fit filter like this (example) which have plastic frame and the guy can make them fit like an original? No leaks from the side, no dust etc, what's your opinion?