D.FYLAKTOS

I wonder the guys which remove the factoty filter-hoses and buy-install filters like this which have the same diameter from A to Z don't have issues with the speed of the incoming air?

Even their radar detectors (aka "pistols") are not propely calibrated but they still give tickets to drivers even for 5-10 km overspeeding. In the past i have seen Police mini-vans with portable equipment checking emissions and db noise especially the motorcycles.

If they got the equipment and the willing to give fines (tickets) because the Chief asked it, they will.

I wonder why Skoda make a conical tube (less that 56mm) inside the filter box and in the end of it at 56mm attacked a hose about 65mm and in the end of it drove it to a an Γ shape pipe (inside the plastic cover) and from 6mm make it 56mm in the throttle. What's the meaning of this whole process? What's the ''disadvantage'' for the air from 56mm at the filter box to end straight at 56mm at the throttle?

1.3 petrol engine Flywheel bolts (new with thread locking compound) Stage 1: 30 Nm Stage 2: Angle-tighten through a further 90 ' (degrees) Flywheel cover plate bolts 10 Nm __________________________________ 1.6 diesel engine Flywheel bolts (new bolts/nuts) Stage 1: 60 Nm Stage 2: Angle-tighten a further 90 ' (degrees)

@Papez Here is mine as is now (outside) That plastic pipe is fitted here? because i have never seen it before.

The car was running about 15 years without it.🤓 Even if we have an aftermarket filter (gauze for example) need it?

I have that cone now installed, what i don't have is this Γ (45 degrees) shape plastic hose on the right.

Something is missing at the exit to the throttle or not?

I have seen has something like adaptor which narrows down the exit perimeter a bit, i haven't measure it if is about 56mm as the throttle.

IF (let's say hypothetically) the pipe in the air filter box becomes smaller (now it's 65mm outside) equal to the throttle body (outside is about 56mm) there would be a difference in performance? The factory made it in purpose so the air now have more pressure?

A washer and a U shaft safety ,i don't know the exactly word in english, here we call the Halfmoon safety.

Yes i know it but it's double cost, that part plus the other one to connect it with the throttle and how about the sealing of these parts? Wouldn't be fragile? Sealed, the internal clap does not work all the times, if it gets stuck closed then the whole day the filter sucks hot air from the engine. This in a highway trip would be a disaster, high rpm + hot air only in the throttle. I wonder why 56mm from one side and 65mm on the other, has something to do with the pressure that the incoming air is driven into the throttle? One thread of the air intake manifold is damaged (has 3) plus every time i want to inspect-lubricate the gas petal wire-check the sensor-clean the throttle etc i had to remove 3 bolts plus the air filter hose. Plus the plastic absorbs heat and takes time to cool off.

Yes, i have done it to mine, keep in mind i have a/c and a fan with 6 black blades.

Yes, i don't touch that hose. And now the sad news, that black cover can not be removed because: The throttle body is about 56mm wide and the end of the plastic tube of the air filter is 65mm wide, so there is some kind of ''funnel'' which is difficult to replace it with a hose. The end of the plastic box has a gasket but even there is not possible to tighten the clamp of the hose. I don't want to start a project making an aluminium adaptor to make the throttle body 65mm and the connect it with a hose with the air filter box.

Sorry but it's PCV or PRV? I read from other drivers that have a problem with PCV when does not work properly.

I want to make an experiment to remove it just for few kilometers to see hoe the engine will work. As for the hose that drives emissions to the throttle what must i do? To put a small filter as previous or the emissions must turn back to the engine to be burned?

Just an intake pipe, nothing ''special'' about the turbulences -the specific air pressure etc that some drivers say? As for the hose that drives emissions to the throttle? A small filter can do the job or the emissions must turn back to the engine to be burned?

In the past i have read many opinions about that cover, some say we needed some say it's not necessary. Leave it as is, the factory knows better Remove it, you can make inspections work better without it Leave it, cover some crucial parts Remove it because preserves heat and does not let the engine cool faster Leave it, covers the noise from the engine Remove it does not protect from the noise at all Leave it because driver the incoming air with a specific pressure to the throttle Remove it because the air will entrance to the throttle without any obstacle Leave it, protects from air turbulence as comes from the filter box Remove it as the same do the guys with cold air intakes. plus some other opinions that i am not remember now. Another issue is the hose that begins from beneath the engine oil cap and goes to the throttle. Leave it, it is ''oiling'' the throttle Remove it, transfer dirt inside the throttle Keep it but put in the end a small filter No the filter after some years gets dirty and the dirt returns back Put an oil catch can Leave it free No that's not good for the environment Keep it but not block the end because the pressure will make the cap pop-up plus some other opinions that i am not remember now. Gentlemen, what's your opinion about those matters?

Let's hope that vibrations + cables ties won't hurt the thin metallic folds of the radiator in long term use. In high speed driving (national road) the auxiliary fan will spin alone?

We can screw the upper part of the new fan on the plastic radiator duct but what about the lower part? Bracket of some kind of patend?

Hear at 0:53 till 1:27. We can not use Puller fan since we have that factory metal cover but isn't risky to cut it and install one?

The one with the 6 blades? Replace the stock (for example) with one like this? https://www.autopartsnow.gr/wateradiator/1271--spal-36cm-12v-.html The high performance fan can be used to replace the factory product for more efficient cooling. It allows more air to circulate around the radiator so less horsepower is needed. It also has an ultra-slim design so the fan can be easily installed in your cooler, in the most convenient position to allow more room for other aftermarket components.

I thought this auxiliary fan will have one scale only (manually by a switch from the driver) and will be used for harsh traffic situations only.

1) The position of the auxiliary is crucial? I mean as we look the radiator left or right? On the right is the stock fan and the auxiliary will push air to him. 2) Will work independently or together with the stock?