D.FYLAKTOS

This? You spary it with Contact Cleaner (No Oil) ?

If you have a problem this will not make ''magic'' things, if you haven't then it's OK as a basic restart. For example IF you have a faulty sensor even a million or restarts won't solve it, the VCDS will show to you the error code and you will find the cause of the problem. If you don't have any issues then after few days of driving everything will be OK. Tip: before the nick name put the symbol @ so the nickname will get ''highlighted'' and the user will get a notification, for example: D. Fylaktos (i get no notification that you wrote something to me) @D.FYLAKTOS (i will get a notification) 👍

1:29 - 2:13 How to Calibrate Throttle Position Sensor Using a Multimeter (Set TPS)

You have to go to a repair-shop or a friend or yours which has VCDS to connect it in your OBDI port.. Even if you disconnent the battery and connect it does not mean that in 1' the reset is OK, you have to drive the car for a week in city-highway so the ECU will ''learn'' your driving style and make adjustments. The first kilometers maybe not ''ideal'' but you had to keep going.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/508411-skoda-felicia-with-an-oil-catch-can/ also https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/514344-engine-cover-do-we-really-need-it/?do=findComment&comment=5765821 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/514344-engine-cover-do-we-really-need-it/?do=findComment&comment=5765627

It's a factory hose below the oil cap and drives the emissions to the air intake manifold to be burned later (Euro rules) in the combustion chamber. Some say these "lubricate" the throttle but all i have seen is sludge. Some drives install oil catch can (i have opened a thread in this forum) and some put a small filter to collect this muck. It's not environment good to release them down on the road.

Can not be driven in a small filter as i have done in my 1.3 Felicia?

No, some repairs on the pistons (rings) at least due to worn but this can be measured from a mechanic. What oil are you using (brand, viscosity) ?

Blue smoke = Burning oil A common phenomenon of engine malfunction is burning oil. This means that the oils pass into the combustion chamber, consequently burning together with the gasoline. In fact, this is the third most likely cause of oil loss, as long as you see that they are not leaking from the sump or the filter. To be even more sure that this is what is happening in your car, you can check the spark plugs. If they are wet and dark, and you have changed them recently, then it means that the engine is burning oil. In extreme cases, when the spark plug is "wet" by oil, it will not give a spark, so a cylinder will not work, that is, it will "reak". Finally, again in extreme cases, one piece of evidence is the emission of blue smoke from the exhaust. In this case, consult an expert. If you have caught the phenomenon at its beginning, a change in the "seals" of the engine is enough, otherwise you will have to do a motor rebuild. (Copy paste, translated by Google)

I will make my Felicia like a Corvette with side air vents to get heat out from the engine bay. LOL 😄

No, just 2 bolts and you remove that aluminium look box with the 14V stamp plus the 2 cables. An example from other vehicle: When you take it in your hands open it and you will find something like These inside, check for worn signs. In the "old type" altenators like your this is easy, in modern altenator models this task can not be done except if you go to the repair shop to lift the car high.

Of course ! 2 bolts and it's out then you can make the indpection for the brushes, you can buy new ones and install them. No need to buy new and expensive parts before it's 100% sure that you need them, i have done the same mistake in the past.

If you drive in ''muddy'' roads keep them, me i got rid of them after so many years.

No we don't. Check the cable and the spring, don't overdoo in grease, first clean thouroughly and then apply a light coat. Had similar problem few years ago, pressing the clutch pedal was pulling together the brake pedal and vice versa.

A friend of mine asked a manufacturer of aluminium expansion tank about ''heat exchange'' with the engine bay. The answer was '' is not significant".

Same code, one (top) bought in a parts store and the other (beneath) is from an e-store. Look the same in diameter but as you can see they have a difference in the end. The original seals better with the plastic socket of the air filter and the other of the engine cover. Plus when it's time to bent it a little bit for some degrees (factory specifications) the original has no problem at all when the other has, it bent easily and narrows the air flow a bit. Waist of money and time, soon i will replace the after market with the original.

Where in the engine is that pipe?

The days of late 80's that i was in school are far away that's why i can't understand why the air from 56mm in the end of the air filter box it cannot be driven at the 56mm of the throttle. It will lose what? Speed, smooth flow? No cone tubes, no 65mm hose, no Γ style inside the cover ,no narrowing, just straight ''take and give'' air in the same diameter. 😊

That's for the idle or low rpm or this applies to higher rpm also?

You know what's happening with small motorcycles which don't have a RPM gauge, whey the see (and hear from distance) and after market noisy exhaust. The procedure is certain https://www.tosynergeio.gr/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=59:2010-05-05-07-02-00 but if you don't have Homologation papers for that racing style exhaust (and nobody has a licence to have that exhaust in a daily motorcycle) you will get a fine. If you don't agree and get this to the curt things will get only worst except if you are a lawyer or you have time and money to spend to argue with the Police.

I wonder the guys which remove the factoty filter-hoses and buy-install filters like this which have the same diameter from A to Z don't have issues with the speed of the incoming air?

Even their radar detectors (aka "pistols") are not propely calibrated but they still give tickets to drivers even for 5-10 km overspeeding. In the past i have seen Police mini-vans with portable equipment checking emissions and db noise especially the motorcycles.

If they got the equipment and the willing to give fines (tickets) because the Chief asked it, they will.

I wonder why Skoda make a conical tube (less that 56mm) inside the filter box and in the end of it at 56mm attacked a hose about 65mm and in the end of it drove it to a an Γ shape pipe (inside the plastic cover) and from 6mm make it 56mm in the throttle. What's the meaning of this whole process? What's the ''disadvantage'' for the air from 56mm at the filter box to end straight at 56mm at the throttle?