Crasher

H16-12V-19W

If it is running every day you have a problem, it either needs a good long run or a "service regeneration whilst standing" using a diagnostic system. If you leave it the DPF will clog and need a "forced regeneration whilst driving" which takes longer (i.e. costs more) and leave it past that where the soot loading exceeds the max value, the DPF will have to come off and be cleaned BUT they can also crack and that gets really expensive.

Doing another on a T6 tomorrow.

Spacers!

The two week did last week both had failed water pump but no symptoms.

Being as you asked nicely... 😄 Front 5Q0 698 151 AJ (new part number) Rear 7N0 698 451 C (new number, fourth change!)

1) AVG number 04L 107 065 M 001, Mahle 028 PI 00158 000 2) I prefer Mahle pistons to any other brand, I am just fitting four in an Octavia 1U L&K VEP TDI engine 3) It has been my job/life for 42 years

I would say and hope so, it is wasn't the problem is going to be more difficult to find.

As I said, that's why we use genuine, then someone else has to fix it.

Front discs - PR-1LG, 5Q0 615 301 G, 340x30 Rear discs - Pr-1KT, 5Q0 615 601 D, 272x10

To me that is failure of the electrically controlled main water pump, terribly unreliable. One point, don't obsess about the temp gauge readings, it is programed to read 90 at a real 77 and still read 90 at 117 so if it goes above 90 the actual temp will be 118+. We only fit genuine pumps and belts so when this happens (as it has) it is the appropriate VAG group main dealers problem, not ours. This is the Superb we did last week and the original pump had failed but it was not over heating

What is the VIN?

That is a good price, just the engine alone is £6616.14 in the UK

From what I can see, the CUPA has never had redesigned rings, just pistons in August this year.

I hate the 1.6 TDI CAYA, B and C engine, absolute dog of an engine. I am just rebuilding the ASV in an Octavia 1 L&K, quarter million miles, zero measurable bore or crank wear but head gasket failed due to excessive boost for 20 years, terrible 🤣

Sounds like an ABS pump fault

Common problem with that switch since it came out in the 95 A4, test the concept by unplugging it. Part number 4B0 905 849

No they won't fit behind Pro-Lits, that is what I had before the Alutec which Wolfrace listed for the Cupra R but they still won't fit. The Leon Cupra R came with 18's usually although 17's are listed with 312 ATE calipers but the Brembo's will not work inside a 17 with the 328x28 Brembo calipers and discs.

We have seen a few replacements do that with Yuasa being bloody awful, their Silver 5000 series EFB's are terrible, every single one AND their warranty replacements we ever fitted failed so now we only fit Varta BUT on our loan car Passat. a Varta E39 AGM failed within weeks.

We are seeing a lot of modern EFB and AGM batteries suddenly fail at around 6 years with little warning.

Broken wires in the door shut is a very common 1U problem.

The "off the shelf" common ones are Golf 4 R32 if you can find them and Leon 1 Cupra R BUT these need factory Cupra R 18's as nothing (in my experience) aftermarket will go over them. I still have a full setup all rebuilt under my bench done in RAL Mint Green so the next time I change my wheels, I can try and find some that will work. The current ones from Autec were listed as being for a Cupra R but they would not fit over the calipers.

Modern VAG temperature gauges are very misleading, they will show 90 when the actual value is 77 and still show 90 at a real 116 but then when the real value hits 117 the gauges shoots up to a ridiculous value. The effect of this is in 99.95 of cases people do not fret and obsess about the minuti of the gauge readings as they used to with observations like "it just reads over 90 and then just under" so it just sits there reading 90 and no one notices or cares which is what VAG want. BUT if you do get an issue such as the electronically controlled cam belt driven water pump failing, the real temp goes up and up to 100 or more but until it becomes a major issue, you don't know. Then when it hits 117 (and I have logged this), the gauge goes goes FSD and the dash goes crazy scaring the **** out of you; personally I would prefer an accurate gauge, forewarned is forearmed.

How do you get at them without removing the subframe?

I can't see how you could do them on the car.