Crasher

Also, the factory spec gap is 0.8>0.9 mm

Does the rev counter jump wildly, actually dropping to zero and then back up to 900 ish? On ETKA, the VAG spec for the plugs in a CAVE engine is NGK PZFR6R VAG number 03C 905 601 B but that cross references to an NGK SIZFR6B8EG which is highly confusing. The BKR7EIX is an interesting choice, its only VAG listing is for a 996 Porsche 911 GT2, GT3 and turbo.

New number 3 glow plug (preferably all four) and investagte why the grill is playing up, active aerodynamics, more things to go wrong that do bugger all! Looking at ETKA, the blind has changed part number five times to a new number 3V0 122 321 E at £366 so that is probaly the answer.

It can be done box in car but is a lot easier box out so tied in with a clutch change (it is manual?) I would say a day and a half's works

We only fit genuine, too many forgeries on fleaBay.

A new bevel box 0CN 409 053 AM is £2870 and it has been revised. It is a bit fiddly to top up (oil is G 052 145 S2 and £38.74 for a litre, it uses 0.9 litres) and a gear oil pump with an M10x1 adapter makes life much easier but it could be removed and have new oil seals fitted for £107 in parts and all three have been revised which says something

The CAYC engine only has a DMF when used in an Audi A3. VAG say that it is not possible to convert a SMF installation to DMF as they don’t have a software patch like they do for the Polo 3 cylinder TDI DMF to SMF conversion we did on Thursday. Physically it can be done just by fitting a CAYC engined 5 speed box type 8P A3 kit so for example the LUK set 600 0199 00. As for the software you may be able to use an A3 ECU or find an ECU programer who has the file and is able to copy and paste the difference but software is out of my skill set, I leave that sort of this to much cleverer people than me like Mrs Crasher.

@juan27 what is the VIN?

I can’t find the info about removing them, it was simply just along the lines of no longer required or available so discard.

Because the VAG instruction is to remove them as they are now obsolete plus if removed it stops customers driving me mad asking if I have removed them, far too many tinterweb experts these days. The bag in the video had split but to me it still looked pretty full.

Dip it in clean fluid every now and again and if it says 0% then it’s OK. To go any further you would need calibrated test fluid. You also get a feel for how good it is after you have inserted it a few times and see how wet it is…😛

We check with an electronic tester and if it is less than 2% we don't do it.

The EA288 engine can be a nightmare getting the air out. There is a special process in ODIS that takes 900 seconds and this uses the main and auxiliary pumps to get the air out of the intercooler and still fails, I did one on a Golf 7 GTD on Wednesday that another garage were fighting and I started from scratch with a blown clear system (MQB heater matrix...) and put in 6 litres of G12 Evo mix, did the bleed, ran the car up to the fans coming on and it still took another litre, then it came back yesterday, it had gulped the 1/2 litre top up I gave him and need another litre.

I have NEVER seen the bag split and have removed hundreds of them BUT it is the bag that is the cause in that it stops working in boosting the Silica content of the G13. The proper cure is to use the new G12 Evo and if you buy the concentrate this MUST be mixed with distilled water. Only time will tell if this prevents the MQB matrix from getting blocked. What is also extremely important is that the cooling system is back flushed thoroughly using a pressure wash and then blown clear with compressed air to get as much of the tap water out as possible. We dilute G12E 60% water 40% coolant.

They must be really rough places then...

Which make of sensors, Pagid?

Certainly does

We had a good one on a Fabia 2 VRS a few years ago with the DQ200 box. It was from another garage and it was stuck in park so they took the Mechatronic out and sent it to ECU Testing for repair but it was pronounced healthy and it probably was, to start with. After giving up, they dropped it on us using a suspended tow and puzzled we thought, why didn’t they us the emergency release or at least disconnect the linkage on top and manually select neutral? Anyway, with a few seconds we worked out it was the shift lock in the selector as someone had spilt a drink in the cup holder, probably a few times, and the fluid had rotted the pins, with the lock overridden the next problem was that the Mech was now definitely faulty even though it wasn’t before as it would not move and no codes. After 4 months waiting for a selector we fitted it and a new mech, who ended up footing the bill was between the three other parties, I bet there were some raised voices.

Did one on a Leon 3 FR last week, still giving problems.

Or like the Audi SQ5 we have just serviced, customer states "the yellow oil light came on and then the red one", there was bugger all oil in there!

This sort of nasty attitude is why I went away from this forum until the other Skoda one shut down, you are playing at semantics over the wording. In the trade it is well understood what the light means and it's wording varies from one manufacturer to the other so the government's approach is trying to be universal. VW have two separate warnings that constitute an MOT failure one for petrol and one for Diesel

The engine Malfunction Indicator Light being on is an MOT failure. 8.2.1.2. Gaseous emissions Engine malfunction indicator lamp (engine management light or ‘EML’) Turn on the ignition and check that the engine malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illuminates and then goes off. On some vehicles it will be necessary to start the engine before the MIL goes off. You need to inspect MIL fitted to: petrol vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels, not more than 8 passenger seats in addition to the driver’s seat and first used on or after 1 July 2003 petrol vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels, more than 8 passenger seats in addition to the driver’s seat and first used on or after 1 July 2008 gas and bi-fuel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels, not more than 8 passenger seats in addition to the driver’s seat and first used on or after 1 July 2008 Defect Category (a) Emissions levels exceed the manufacturer’s specified limits Major (b) Emissions levels exceed default limits Major (c) Lambda coefficient outside the default limits or the range specified by the manufacturer Major (d) Emissions test unable to be completed Major (e) Engine is idling clearly above its normal idle speed Major (f) Exhaust emits dense blue or clearly visible black smoke for a continuous period of 5 seconds at idle Major (g) Exhaust emits excessive dense blue or clearly visible black smoke during acceleration which would obscure the view of other road users Major (h) Engine MIL inoperative or indicating a malfunction Major

What you are talking about is when a pre 2007 PQ35 platform car gets a later head unit where you need to change the CAN BUS but I would not expect it to take 10 years to show up.

Which year and is the radio the original? Also, do you trip the bonnet lock to simulate the bonnet being shut?

Me too, mine has lasted years.