Murdockman

Gave the hub centre part a good clean today and it does seem that the so called bolt might actually be a nut but the tags must be on the inside of the nut as you cannot see any of the tags showing the shaft was a flush fit right up to the ede of the nut centre so it did look like it was actually a bolt with a large double hex surround, I only have a six sided socket so will get the correct one before going ahead with the removal of the joint to replace the rubber boot, sorry for confusion but even on Autodoc when i put my car details in they came back with this nut did not fit my model ., it does have the 6 speed gearbox and thought this was the problem thanks again

This part and does not fit my car as posted it's a type of bolt bolt not a nut there are no locking tabs it looks like a mushroom type bolt with a thread in the centre that screws onto the driveshaft, typed the part number in and as stated it's a nut with locking tabs not fitted on my cars sorry

Seems a daft question but cannot seem to find any info about the outer driveshaft retaining bolt on my 2019 Skoda Fabia 1.0 TSI 110 BHP 6 speed , I keep seeing the normal type bolts with the blank end, the nuts that are threaded and have locking tabs but mine has the large 36mm outer socket size and looks like a threded hole in the middle of the bolt, I did see a vid on u tube and the guy held a new bolt up but can't seem to find one on the internet ,asked at main dealers guess what you need to bring te car in for us to check or bring the old one in a bit hard with the last one as don't fancy driving the car with the driveshaft bolt in my pocket some one must know the part number or where to get them from, will be changing a cv boot shortly and wanted a new bolt thanks in advance

Take the car back to the garage that did the work and explain the situation of the car pulling to the left since the issue with the wheel comimg off, disc and backplate needs checking for damage chips cracks etc, then bottom wishbone needs to be checked to see if it's at all slightly bent most of these type of issues land up with disc, strut wishbone damage in rare conditions the chassis could also be damaged or slightly misalined, you need them to perform a full tracking and degree setting, sometimes a simple messure from the centr hub on the wheel to the end of the wheel arch gives you a pointer at any thing not quite right (messure both sides in front of hub and behind hub to the arch and compare ) a few mm out is ok but if you are talking 10mm plus you have a problem. As a garage they have the responability to ensure the work done is correct and safe which in this case was not. Every one can make a mistake but you need to own it and put it right at no cost to the customer

Is the key fob not unlocking the doors or not starting the car? if your fob is still starting the car the transmitter part that unlocks the door could be faulty, one dodge i did before was to unlock the car with the key in lock open bonnet dissconect the car battery then take out the fob battery leave for around 20 mins then re-connect the car battery shut all doors bonnet etc then put key fob battery in and re programme key fob to the car as before worth a try

Could be a few problems here but you will need to elimnate them one by one, start with the drop links, then move onto the anti roll bar rubber bushes next for me would be the wishbone/control arm rear bushes Quite popular problem you can see if these are torn or cracked cracked strut spring right at the top mount could be an issue, might be slight play in the bottom ball joint as well, strut top mounts have also been an issue most of these joints can be checked with a pry bar to strees the joints to see if there is any play, the spring is a visual spot a goood light up under the wing and a feel around the top fold of the spring, have even seen the front bearing come out with a clonking noise , just a few pointers but good liuck hope you can sort it out

Hi all posted a week or so ago about suspensuion bushes, the noise was from the drop links but noticed that the rear bush on the wishbone/control arm was starting to split. Was looking to replace these with the better slid ones like I did on my old MK2 but was not sure about the part numbers for the MK3, I have now sorted the issue with a solid bush from Meyle part number is Meyle 100 407 0073/HD, these bushes are not listed for the Skoda but for Audi A1 and Audi TT 2012 but they are a perfect fit for the pressed steel arm that's fitted to my 2019

Might be slit where the clip goes around the boot or just about to go, to be sure you will need to put the car on a full right lock and then jack up the car to allow wheel to turn and rotate the wheel around also give it a good clean with a damp cloth with a little silicone spray on the cloth you will then see if it's split or leaking,if it's not leaking you might get it through an mot depending on the tester

As above spot on could not find a picture to explain but this is a great example well done

No noise now after replacing the drop links but noticed that the rear wishbone rubbers were starting to slightly split, as mentioned before on my old MK2 i replaced these with a set of Seat Cupra solid bushes which lasted many years until the car was written off hence we boufght this MK3 the old MK2 had the big bushes on the end of the wishbone these are a steel wishbone with the bush horisontal

You have a few issues here, the shoes need to come off and the handbrake lever needs freeing up and greasing the lever should move back a forth with a free movement,you are also missing the self adjusting wedges that fit to these brakes that fits on the leading shoe (front shoe) on each side just below the end of the strut and has a spring attacted to the bottom of the shoe you might have a decent handbrake now but your footbrake will be poor as the shoes are not adjusting up every time you apply te foot brake that was why it took so many goes at getting it right you were adjusting the handbrake shoe to try and get a decent footbrake adjustment, some one has worked on this car and left the adjusters off thats why it's not working correctly, if you searh on mintex brake book and download the catalouge it shows all the parts for te front and rear brakes for all cars you just neeed to select your model from the lists

Poly bushes are useless they do not last and performance is rubbish tried them on my old MK2 Fabia threw them away and then fitted Seat Cupra solid bushes improved handeling and lasted 5 years untill car was written off by uninsurured driver only noticed slight vibration if you were going slow in a high gear but who drives like that, was looking for a solid rubber one instead of these with holes in the sides they are not listed for this model but some times peole know what others to fit

Mk 3 skoda fabia 2019 1.0 TSI estate, replaced the drop links on this car a few weeks ago with uprated meyle units due to a slight knocking on certain bumps in the road that has now gone but while working on the car noticed that the wishbone rear rubber bush has a slight split in the rubber, not yet crcked or pulled away from the metal but will need changing in the next 6-12 months, on my mk2 I replaced these type rubbers a few times with splitting but found that a seat cupre solid bush fitted and when these wee fitted lasted many years compared to the dealer bush with the 2 vent like holes so was wondering is there a solid bush that is available for this arm perhaps that VW use for a sports model that would also fit this type of arm on my fabia any help would be appreciated thanks

No problem you will loose the filter oil amount but that's it, the only downside the oil will now look dirty from this old filter, these caps are not over tightened they are plastic and when heated up this happens this is the joy of owning a decent socket set

Open the front door remove the door open restrictor open door right up and then you can get at the pillar plug, realease the rubber seal and then realease the catch pull the plug out clean it with WD40 then apply a good layer of petrolium grease to the plug and reciever attch plug back in and re fit rubber seal if seal gets broken you cabn get them or at a last resort you can use part of a rubber glove that usually sorts out lots of issues

Spline key or socket for undertray and a good oil filter wrench, i use the alloy set of the bay 1/2 inch drive fits them ok new sump plug or washer jack up car with the trolley pad on large cross member then slide stand onto chassis part just behing and away you go, don't forget to get the oil at operating temp brfore draining and don't forget to refit sump plug and filter before filling up

Don't think it's a top or bottom issue as these links are excatly the same, I had the same on a pair I bought for my MKII. I think it's a quality pass dot that confirms they have passed a final inspection before packing,

First issue are you losing any amount of coolanant from the level? had an isssue with a friends car changed pump hoses etc still lost coolant ,it turned out to be a slightly porus head and he replaced the head with a used one and the issue was solved, second the so called limiter issue, I had something like this on my MK2 1.9 TDI would not pull in high gear very well and seemed to miss fire at higher revs, had a few trips to get system checked but never found any faults, then a friend succested that the turbo actuator was faulty but not fully gone, bought a new actuator £75 and once fitted the rev limiter type fault went away and car went back to full power on hills etc, this fault never showed upm at all in many checkes on the system and dealers told me the turbo was gone but knew enough to know it wasn't that oh one thing i did notice that when the type of miss fire happened i noticed a few puffs of black smoke in the rear mirror but thought that was normal at high revs but now realise that it was not running right

My friend had a very simular issue like this , you must dissconnect the battery before removing said ecu connection and the ecu must be re-connected before battery is connected up, he did not do this and just as you did plugged it in, car would crank but not start, tried loads of things fuses etc but nothing , in the end he had to send the ecu to a firm in Plymouth that offers a repair service on ecu's the initial charge was £60 and they will ring you if they find further issues, his had a blown capacitor probably from plugging it back in with power on the line, but hey ho we all have to learn some times the hard and expensive way

We have 2 key fobs with the car a 2019 Skoda Fabia NK3 1.o TSI, we have owned the car from nearly new 2 months old, up until last year both keys worked as normal one press to unlock drivers door 2nd press unloks all the doors, then one day went out and left the keys in the tray by gearstick to get fuel happened to shut the drivers door and then the car locked itself trapping the keys in a locked car, rang my daughter and she brought the spare key from our house and car unlocked but when pressing the start button (keyless start) we had to hold the key against the right side of the dash, car started and no problems but then noticed that now the one key fob opens all the doors hatch etc on one unlock press and the other fob you have to press twice for all doors to unlock My only concern is every say 3-4 months when you press the unlock we get a rapid click click click and tutn light flash but goes aroung 6 times not the 1 or 2 times as normal ,when you try to start the car the dash shows key is not reconised and you have to hold it near the right hand side of the steering wheel it then gives a loud alarm type bleep and everything is ok again ,had it plugged in but they cannot find any issues and say bring it in when it lays up which is really impossable as you never know when it's going to happen and again you need to start the car to take it to the garage, just wondering if anyne has had this sort of issue, batteries in key fobs are changed every year we never wait untill message comes on the dash,have used energizer lithium and duracell button batteries not cheap generic ones

Oil and oil filter, air filter,spark plugs check anti freeze strength brake fluid could be changed check alternator belt and change if slightly cracked wuld recommend changing auto box filter and oil, would also check brake pad condition have noticed that they may seem plenty of thivkness but due to pad make up they can crumble badly,rear shoes last well unless handbrake cable is sticking up to you if you want to pull drums off and check cylinders and shoes, give all rubbers a good look over i have found a spray with silicone spray and a wipe with a rag keeps them clean and supple DO NOT USE WD 40

For a start there must be an issue with your key fob to do this as you have stated you press the buttons so is not keyless entry before messing about with alarms and wiring you could try getting a replacement fob casing and transfer your circuit board to the new fob and give it a try, if the car doors lock after driving off on thier own you can get this removed with an pug in VCD meter this was an option on these cars self lock all doors after 10mph or not at all no matter what happens you can open the doors by pulling internal handles twice this then opens the doors, once car is running no alarm should work or stop the car no matter what button you press

Yes had this issue after getting a front cv joint replaced at a garage, they had damaged the abs sensor , after a few jobs of cleaning the sensor pick ups and cleaning the hub rings i went down the line of testing the abs sensor with a multi meter when the abs light was on dissconnecter each sensor and put the meter wires on the connecter part that goes to the sensor put the meter to reistance circuit test mine bleeps when the circuit is made the meter should show reistance then none resistance then none when spinning the wheel/hub it was then i noticed that the front hub sensor was not doing this when the light was on so changed that one and the issue went away don't know if this will help but worth a shot before spending loads on other things

Had this issue with the drivers side rear door, I bought a can of WD40 with the straw firtted, got a cloth and lifted the rear door handle and put the cloth underneath the handle to stop WD running down the door I then srayed in the small gap left it for 10 mins then gave it another good spray I had my mate to keep pressing the lock unlock on the remote while I spraded and thumpded the door after a few goes the door unlocked, i went ahead and then removed the door card the door lock was then removed after taking the glass out I had to replace the lock which was purchased new from ebay when re fitting covered it in silicone grease, i did the other side before it got stuck much easier when you have the door open give it a try