Murdockman

Your post is rather confusing, normally when you turn the key on the ABS symbol lights up then goes out if everything is ok, if the light stays on there's an issue with the system this could be a broken fuse link a wheel sensor or the pump itself, if it does not light up at all could be just a bulb replacement but thats a pain as well, you can check fuses etc yourself but it's a bit more involved to check the wheel sensors so perhaps a visit to a garge that can plug your car in might help,

Well sorry to shot you down in flames but after working most of my life in a repair garage I have seen a car run with a broken crankshaft another with a broken camshaft and to top it all i saw an old mini run (but not to drive on the road) with no plugs leads or coil fitted, a few people could have lost many pounds in bets on that one but a few saw it happenen and still could not belive it

Sorry was going to say the belt was changed but not done correctly and camshaft wheel was slack and slipped knocking the tdi sesor out of position, you can try this, if you look down the front of the engine after taking the engine cover off theres a connection right between the fuel pipes resting on the lip of the head, dissconect this and see if the car starts and runs if it does you will need to check the adjustable camshaft wheel to see if the bolts are in the centre or have slipped to the reat of the adjustment slot as this can cause this issue, t this sometimes happens after a belt has been changed as some eople slacken these bolts to get the belt to line up but don't tighten them back up enough it's worth a try just to dissconnect the plug to see if it starts

Had this issue with a mates car,after the belt was changed the

Had this issue with my MK2 as others said remove the end parts of the lower grill as you can then get into the fog light blank area. I sprayed area with WD40 but they would not realease, after much pushing and choice words th only way I could remove them was to drill a small hole in the solid part of the plastic blank near the middle of the blank screw in a long thin wood screw a few turns and the used a mole grips on the screw and gave a good yank out, to my suprise they came out quite easy this way as it seems theres no clips or anything holding them in place, found a deal on EBay seller had new old stock and paid £96 for a set of fog lights with a new switch and screws etc to fit the lamps wiring for the lamps was included but not right to the switch whic I completed myself, I did add a relay just to make sure that it was safe to use

Once cleaned up smear all contacts in vaseline and this should be good for many years, always did this with my car and holders are like new many years later

If you only want to change the sidelights to led no coding is required you only need to buy proper osram led bulbs, if you want led headlights you will need a HID conversion kit that reduces the power and DOES NOT MELT YOUR HEADLAMP FITTINGS like most people do

Ha here we go have now sorted this issue out no thanks to dealership all I could get off them you'l have to book it in about 3 weeks time, anyway it seems that when i went out to the car i used the spare key fob and althought it unlocked the car and let it start and stop again the car was locking itself as it was confused with the spare remote, when i used the normal set of keys and fob the car was also confused with this fob as well, in the end had to lock the car as normal go into the house remove the battery from the fobs wait 5mins then put the battery back in go to the car unlock the door lock it again then unlock the door get in shut the door turn ignition on, turn it off then turn it back on hold the key fob just to the right of the steering wheel and press the lock button, heard a loud bleep from the dash and now everthing is working ok again, this information came via a mate in an independant garage Skoda dealers might know about this but won't tell you cause they can swindle money out of you by saying there was a fault but warranty does not cover this issue

No problems with the buttons sticking or being pressed key fob was just placed in the car as normal, it also happens when car has been running, prees stop button , ingnition off leave key fob in the car get out shut the door a few seconds later car locks, only way back in is by preesing unlock on spare key fob, both remotoes have new batteries fitted car does not lock if drivers door is open but if you close the drivers door and leave passenger side open the car locks on it's own so it seems the main control in drivers door is playing up, the car is just still under warranty so dealers will be getting a call in a few days to sort it out

Have owned a Fabia MK 1, 2 and now a MK3 estate, have been satisfied with the car in general but now todasy found a major flaw with the MK3 locking system, went out to the car, unlocked all doors 2 button pushes,got in the car shut the drivers door just before going to press the Ign/start button i had forgotten something from the house, left the key fob in the front containter by gearstick as normal got out of the car shut the drivers door as it was raining a bit and went into the house to get my phone, when I went back out to the car THE CAR WAS LOCKED AND KEYS STILL INSIDE, I did have a spare fob in the house so was able to get in the car but surely the car should not self lock once you have opened the drivers door and then shut it again without the car locking itself without turning ingnition on or leaving fob in the car, I also noticed this happened with the hatch once before, unlocked the hatch but left key in the boot area shut the hatch and the car locked trapping key fob in the boot though ok both other models never did this once it was unlocked it stayed unlocked until you pressed the fob again, suppose it's another idiot design improvement that you can lock your keys in the car easier than before, it makes me wonder what clown idea they will come up with next

I have a mk3 Fabia with 17 inch rims and 215/45/17 tyres as standard, ride is ok on smooth and motorway but bumppy on b roads the car has a 6 speed box so gearing is not a issue, the spare wheel is a steel rim 195/65/15, last year the dealership who serviced the car wrecked 2 rims on thier ramp, they thought I would not notice and tried to blame it on me but to thier dismay I'm a old hat at this game and had taken photos before car went into the garage on thier forcourt so no problems there, They coiuld not supply a replacement car so I gave them an option of new alloy rims with my tyres refitted or a lend of 3 steel wheels for a few days to get rims repaired, running the car on 4 195/65/15's was strange handeling suffered and gearing odd seemed to pull better but a lot more revs at higher speeds but ride comfort was great, so I don't think going to 17 inch would be the best idea but I think the 16 inch with low profile would be better for handeling but compfort might suffer and perhaps you might have to use a lower gear to get up hills but would benifit on motorway runs

O-ne of the most issues i have seen with this is people who prep the car for sale pressure wash in the door openings before they sel the car, when you buy the car it looks great but don't realise that water ges forced into the connening plug on the door jar, many times I have had windows not working etc due to bad connections such as earth issues, usually before stripping down electrics I always dissconnect the door stay open the door wide and support it so it stays open then pull the rubber gromet off the connecting harnesss realease the clamp remove the plug and give it a good clean smear with petroluim jelly and reconnect thge plug and clipping the clamp to hold the plug in place then refit the rubber not forgetting to put back the door stay otherwise you will wreck the door if it swings open wide normally this seems to cure the issues right away

They are a nightmare to change, all the Halfords and other stores likethese won't change thesse bulbs for love nor money, anyway I did mine by removing the battery covering the wing with a cloth and reaching inside, before I started I gave the holder a squirt with WD yes you have to grab the 2 wires and pull it out no twisting involved, I replaced both mine with led bulbs capless 501 but I drilled 2 holes in the holder and looped a zip tie through the holes so if next time they need to come out you can just grab the loop and pull, drivers side as I had a diesel meant taking the filter housing out of the way to get at it, in fairness the bulbs lasted for 9 years but car was then written off by un-insured driver we now have a mk3 which already has led lights fitted

More than likely the slight noise you can hear is coming from te disc/rear drums mainly from a slight build up of rust on the edge of the discs /drums where the pad does not rub, have a look in through the wheel and you can usually see the rust on the edge, it's a simple job on the front discs but you will have to remove the road wheels and scrape the rust off it's a bit harder on the rear as the drums need to be removed to clean the rust ridge from the drum, this mostly happens if the car has not been used that much, but if you can put up with the noise it might go away after a few weeks of normal use but really nothing to worry about as long as pads have friction on them and are not worn right down, but please check both pads and both sides, some cars outer pad wear down more than piston side due to the slide pins sticking, I always re-grease thse every pad change and on my old fabia with drums realesed the shoes lubricated the handbrake lever shoe and also the shoe pad location raised dimples every time the pads were changed the shoes lasted a lasted a good 70,000 before they were changed, I used a Bosch set as £79 for genuine skoda brake hoes was a bit steep, the bonded Bosh shoes cost £26 and lasted another 35,000 untill our car was kindly written off by a non insured driver

Have you canged the bulb? one of the biggest issues are the capless bulbs, the contacts into the holder get corroded and cause this issue, it might even be the holder itself the only way to make sure is remove the whole thing clean it up and smear some vaseline into the contacts and on the bulb contacts before refitting PS -----they are a nightmare to get at and remove, I landed up removing the battery and at arms length to get mine out, so then replaced mine with led bulbs and also drilled 2 small holes into the holder and connected a zip tie and made like a loop so I could just hook it out next time but to be fair had the car 8 years and never had to change those bulbs again after cleaning and replacing with led ones

As with most jump leads this day and age they are flimsy so i have found it's best to hold the clamps on the car battery with your hands/gloves before trying to start the car up, neg clamp should have been clamped to the engine somewhere to get the best earth, with the alarm you need to keep pressing the off button with the doner battery conected before trying to restart you might be better gettinf a mate to run his car to charge up your battery a bit first BUT DO NOT TRY TO START YOUR CAR WITH YOUR MATES CAR RUNNING YOU WILL DESTROY HIS ALTERNATOR FOR HIM, so many people do this and wonder why the alternator fails a few weeks later on thier car easy maths alternator output around 100 amps starter amps when cranking around 300-400 amps it cannot cope with this

Unless the car has been modified the correct size front discs are 256mm and usually Teeves pads and the rear if fitted with discs are 230mm and usually lucas type pads, some of the higer spec models have 292mm front discs and could have Lucas or Teeves pads fitted I have always used Textar discs and pads, the disc pads are really good quality and the discs are coated just like Skoda originals but a far better price, you can download the Textar Brake Book Catalouge and check all variations of the different models to find the sizes and diferent tyes of pads discs shoes kits etc

I have seen this type of damage once before and it was caused by a internal bearing failure and causing excessive end float in the carrier allowing the final drive gear to smash against the housing, but truly the only real way to find the issue is to strip it down and check it out, could possibly be a broken end on the drive shaft or a clip that's come off

Had the same issue with a clown who used to do my mot i just wiped them over every year before mot was due and when passed re do them issue sorted

My old MK2 fuse went on the car if I remember correctly the fuse you can try to disabke the siren is in the top row of the fuse box it's a 15 amp number 54 its the 5th in from the left side of the fuse bnox

Just a thought could it be the compound make up of the paint as most cars are now water based colours and perhaps this code reflects this change from the solvent based paints that were used

If you change this bush please don't use the Shkoda bush they are rubbish you will be replacing them again witin 2 years use the same bush that's solid from a SEAT CUPRA much stronger better handanling etc but you will need to change both sides , puller kit is around £90 bushes run around £60 a pair Skoda bushes are around £30 but t hey want £250 per side to replace them had minr done both sides in an independant garage for £80 both sides with me suppling the bushes

I have come across this issue with a mates 1.9 TDI and it was the wiring loom that supplies the injectors with the signal to squirt the fuel into the engine kept coming up on his as cylinder 3 when going into limp mode, was hard to find as you said would go fine for a few days then wham would not rev or pull, at first we thought it might be the turbo pressure switch playing up but both of them were renewed and we made sure turbo arm wa free and turbo was boosting ok, a friend of mine told me a Skoda garage had a few issues with the loom and we replace his with a used one and this has seemed to cure the limp home issue

Change your oil and oil filter every year is a big engine saver no matter on mileage just change it and always use good quality oil and filters fuel filter should be replaced every 3 years if you are doing around 12000 miles a year a bit longer if less but don't leave it more than 5 years, this is not mentioned in most service plans as Skoda just say when it's blocked get it changed but by then it can do a fair but of damage to fuel parts , I always take my spark plugs out every 2 years check them and have renewed them as 4 years seems mad to leave them in without removing them, can cost you a load of money if you strip threads, gearbox if manual check every year and top up as required, I also change my coolant every 5 years and always use a really good quality not halfords or such like can damage the water pump vaines and seals, I have always found checking underside of car regular also helps you can pick up broken underseal rusty patches etc and can remerdy before it gets out of hand, my old MK2 was still going strong 12 years untill an uninsured driver wrtote it off we now have a mk3 and will be starting the checks myself this year as it's nearly out of warranty Diesel filters should be changed every year it's a lot cheaper than replacing the injectors or pump £35 for a filter, pump and injectors arnd £1200

I replaced my original battery on my Skoda with a Yuasa heavy duty one priced in Halfords at £1o5 at the time but found a seller on ebay selling same make delivered for £56 came well packed and no leaks very impressed with delivery also had a 5 year warrenty with it as well happy days, we did change the car but will replace battery with a Yuasa make again