langers2k

You might want to add which year you have or at least if it's a pre-facelift or facelift model. Anyways, youtube suggests: Or:

@sneznymuz give it time, they've just released maps for the other headunits so I'd expect them in the next few weeks. As for the dates, they've always been wrong. Looking back at my VCDS scans: - ECE1 2019/20 --- 1115 (released end 2018) - ECE AS 2020 --- 1310 (released mid 2019) - ECE AS 20/21 --- 1430 (released end 2019) Based on that, the CW45 2019 maps have always been shown as 2020/21 and are not the same as the ECE 2020 maps you currently have installed.

I've only ever done it after replacing the climate panel.

You have a slightly different ECU in your CFHC. Stock flash files for 03L 906 018 DA include 9815, 9977, 9978 and 9979. Skoda might take you to 9979 but I'd be more tempted to find a tuner or VCP/ODIS user to try and rollback to 9815 assuming the fix isn't madatory in Australia. If the former will do it for free, I'd try that first as a zero cost/low risk option. A genuine hex-v2 is probably your best bet and there are a list of distributors here: https://www.ross-tech.com/distributors.php Not too sure what's would be helpful to log but if you or your mechanic needed a base line it's something I can try and help with

I think 8207 are known as V8 from around 2014/2015? Some sites claim the latest Aus/NZ version is V13 although they are pretty expensive and I expect a dealer may be even more.

It feels like you haven't coded it in correctly yet as I would expect that menu option to change the units. Probably worth adding an autoscan and adaption maps for the TPMS and 5F modules. I'm not sure if many people here will know the answer so assuming you have a genuine VCDS lead, I'd post the question on rosstech forum too :)

Bit of terminology (specific to the MK2 FL vRS): - DRL will be the LED bars at full brightness - sidelights will be the LED bars at reduced brightness - dipped beam or low beam are 'normal' night time driving lights (provided by the xenons) - main beam or high beam or full beam are only for use when theres no oncoming traffic (provided by the halogen H1's) People use different names for the low/high beam settings which is why things often get confused. Your headlight switch probably has: - off - auto (depending on equipment level) - sidelights - dipped headlights If the DRL isn't dropping in brightness when you turn the light switch into the sidelight or dipped beam position, something is wrong.

You can download the latest without a login using this link: https://webspecial.volkswagen.de/vwinfotainment/int/en/index/downloads/maps-download#/ Just need to wait for the Discover Media version now

That's probably good enough. Obviously it's best to pop to a garage with headlight alignment tools as there is nothing to say they are currently correct

@Phil-E - Stock behaviour is AFSI only but AFSII can be activated in most cases. From when I did it:

@Jake126 - the microphone will use two of the pins in the quadlock connector. See this post:

I was more interested to see the coding as well as any errors that might be there. There are a few things that might upset the DRL but it's a good start to compare your coding to other similar cars to start. If that doesn't show any clear clues, then it's very likely to be byte 18 that's been messed with :)

You might want to post a full autoscan from VCDS so we can check for any obvious causes. It's quite possible someone has messed with byte 18 and screwed the lighting config. If so, VCDS won't help and you'll need VCP or ODIS-e to restore the stock config.

I don't use them nor would I. If there were any better than normal balancing or did help fuel usage, I'd expect to see tyre fitters or car makers using them. If they are happy to try and sell me nitrogen to fill my tyres, throwing a few glass beads in seems like easy profit! Everything on the testing page is in relation to trucks too :/

Correct, you're on the first version of the fix. Good luck with the dealer, I think they tend to be cagey about stuff like this, even more so without a TPI/TSB. If you can get a TPI/TSB number it may help others

I wouldn't suggest remapping until you've figured out what's the cause of the white smoke. If you're not loosing/using coolant, a quick google suggests over lean conditions will cause white smoke on a TDi whereas over fuelling gives black smoke. I'm no mechanic but I'd be checking for an air leak, possibly in the fuel system somewhere? Given both cars have had their turbos replaced, it feels like a good amount of pipework will have been disturbed so that's a good starting place. A few places have also suggested drilling a hole in the bottom of the intercooler and releasing any oil build up then plugging the hole with a screw/bolt. It shouldn't be a problem as you've already had it inspected and cleaned. Not sure how helpful it is but I also have a CFHC but it's never had the fix or it's turbo replaced. I can probably do some live logging with VCDS if it's helpful to compare to your own data? Speaking of the fix, do you know exactly which ECU you've got? Assuming it's the same CFHC as mine, there are a few stock flash files available directly from Skoda.On my car VCDS currently shows: Address 01: Engine (J623-CFHC) Labels:. 03L-906-018-CFF.clb Part No SW: 03L 906 018 C HW: 03L 906 018 BR Component: R4 2,0L EDC H24 9813 Revision: 42H24--- Serial number: When I first bought the car, it had SW:7100 but I updated it using ODIS-e to SW:9813. This is the last pre-fix version I'm aware of for this ECU. Amazingly, there are four different software versions with the fix suggesting they've had some issues... The versions are SW:9978, SW:9979, SW:9980 and SW:9981 so if you're not on the latest of these, it may also be contributing to your smoking.

It's not something I've ever had to do but an Octavia normally has a rev limit of around 2500 rpm in neutral so 3k seems unlikely. A quick google suggests 1300-1400rpm so 1500 rpm is probably normal. Nothing mentioned on ross-techs page regen page unfortunately: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diesel_Particle_Filter_Emergency_Regeneration

I think it's mentioned in the manual. If I remember correctly, it's something like press the unlock button and then use the key blade to unlock the drivers door or maybe use the key blade to unlock the drivers door then press the unlock button? I've only needed to do it once when I lost my car in an airport car park - I'd pressed the unlock button so much trying to find it they'd lost sync

I think you're misunderstanding what the OP wants to do. - I agree that fitting a xenon bulb into a halogen projector would cause the the wrong light pattern. - I agree that splitting a projector and putting it back together can cause the wrong light pattern as the alignment between the lens and reflector is very important. Neither apply to the OP as they want to remove the entire projector and fit a pre-assembled replacement like this: http://www.morimotohid.com/projectors/bi-xenon-evox-r-2-projectors.html The light pattern will be absolutely fine as it'll have been set and checked during manufacture. The EvoX-R is a direct replacement for the Hella E55 that's used in the Octavia and uses the same mounting holes. After fitting, the car would obviously need it's headlight alignment checking/adjusting. The main reason I've not done this is that the EvoX-R only comes in LHD patterns so no good for the UK. As the OP is based in Romania, it's not a problem

The memory function is separate to the folding function. If you have memory seats, you'll probably have memory motors If you pull the mirror off the wing mirror, you can probably see where the wires terminate and therefore what each colour does.

You're correct, the MIB2 is also only for MQB cars such as a MK3 Superb so won't work in your MK2 The Yeti radio you found on eBay is a MIB Bolero, it's pretty much identical to the MIB Amundsen but doesn't have inbuilt satnav. You would need to send it to @pab567 or someone similar to have component protection taken care of before fitting. Not sure how much CP removal current costs at the moment... Assuming you buy a MIB system that's already had CP defeated, it should be plug and play but you'll need a small adaptor loom. Your radio uses a 40 pin quadlock whilst the newer ones use a 52 pin quadlock. The GPS, AM/FM and DAB (where fitted) are identical. I only mentioned Kenwood as they have the Skoda specific headunits. I would expect of the normal car audio brands like Alpine, Blaupunkt, JVC, Sony etc to also have a decent double din headunit. If it's a route you take, I'd suggest popping to a car audio shop or two (Covid allowing) to get hands on with them to see how they 'feel' to use. I'd definitely expect most to have a separate CAN-bus box/adaptor to allow the MFSW buttons to work but I'm not sure about displaying reversing sensors. No worries @Declan O'Shaughnessy - as I say it was something I'd never heard of so I expect things have moved on in Columbus theft since 2011. These days you can either send the serial number and get a code for a few quid or plug it into a machine that'll figure out the code by trying them all!

Not sure where you've heard this but none of it applies to the RNS-510. There is (was?) certainly a market for stolen RNS-510's at one point but it may have died down as they've gotten older. They are protected by a 4 digit code but it's not hard to retrieve the code from the serial number. When you install the headunit in a new car it'll ask for this 4 digit code and then pair to the cluster so it never asks again. Firmware updates certainly won't brick a headunit if it's been previously stolen. You might be thinking of the newer MIB units. These use component protection (CP) which in the beginning was typically defeated by a small addon board soldered to the mainboard. Things have moved on and at least some sellers can now bypass CP via a software mod. @DannyGreenline - if you decide you do want a Columbus (RNS-510), I'd agree that @Rustynuts is the guy to talk to. The one you linked is pretty old so he might having something a little newer and already updated with the latest firmware/maps. They are a decent enough but ageing headunit and may feel a little slow/clunky compared to more modern systems. One caveat, if you have bluetooth and the existing headunit is a Amundsen+ (RNS-315), it's worth checking if it's built into the Amundsen+ or provided by a separate module. If it's the former, you'll also need to add a separate BT module as no Columbus (RNS-510) will have it built in - this will obvious add some cost. Personally, If you want to stick with OEM I'd recommend trying to find a Amundsen (discover media/MIB PQ STD2) from a recent Skoda Yeti. Having swapped headunits a few times in my '61 plate Octavia, it's by far my favourite of the OEM options. Android Auto works flawlessly and it has inbuilt satnav as a backup with free updates directly from Skoda. I've no idea how much any of these things cost but most people recommend @pab567 for MIB units.

Not quite sure what you're saying - there is no diffuser or aperture to adjust in a stock MK2 FL xenon. The beam pattern is formed by a combination of both the reflector and lens of the projector. The cutoff is down to the shutter which is fixed in the stock MK2 FL xenons but moves in bi-xenon variants. Quick diagram showing how they work, in front of the lens you'll also have the clear plastic/polycarbonate outer to protect the internals. The beam can be tweaked to give more width or throw depending on exactly how the reflector and lens have been designed. Assuming quality projectors are fitted and adjusted, there should be no issues with glare

The number of wires varies by what functions the mirror supports, for instance a 'memory' mirror has extra wires than a 'non-memory' mirror and powerfolding adds an extra couple of wires. If you want to check the OEM wiring, you can get wiring diagrams from erwin: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Otherwise, I expect you can probably figure out most things with a multimeter or even your eyes ;)

MIB 2 with a 9.2" screen won't work in a MK2 Superb. That'll only be for a MK3 :) The Pioneer definately fits into the aftermarket double din category, rough list of things to be aware of with most double din headunits: - different physical size so you'll need a new facia - unlikely to take the standard quadlock/fakra connectors so you'll need a wiring adaptor - if you have a seperate BT module, it'll need disconnecting - OEM headunits don't have an ignition switched feed, you'll need to either run a wire from the fuse box (cheap) or add a CAN-bus adaptor (expensive) - you may lose MFSW buttons, reversing graphics, HVAC graphics, instrument cluster integration At least some of the last line are fixable with an appropriate CAN-bus adaptor but it'll depend on the headunit which functions are usable. At the very least, you'll want the MFSW buttons to work assuming you have them fitted. Those two Kenwoods were designed in partnership with Skoda/VW making them more expensive than other standard Kenwood headunits. I've never used either but there is more info here https://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/oem/skoda/DNX525DAB/ I'm not sure if they show information in the cluster or not. This is the newer of the two with Android Auto/Carplay support. That's definately one example of a typical Chinese headunit. Some people like them, some people live with them, others hate them :/ I certainly agree the 5" versions feel small but I find that 6.5" works well enough.