langers2k

It should be avaible in the maxidot but may vary on spec and configuation Then post an autoscan....

It should be pretty easy to check the runout of the brake discs and where the alloys sits

Travel mode is normally an adaption channel in the AFs controller. It's used when you travel to a country that uses the other side of the road so you don't cause glare to oncoming drivers.

Given you've already scanned the car with VCDS, you probably should post the scan to show exactly what error codes are there....

You can use your original buttons but that won't help with the shift paddles. You need to find the buttons from a PQ35/46 car that support the shift paddles. If I remember correctly: - 5E0 919 719 F, no DSG support - 5E0 919 719 G, with DSG support It's also worth noting they have green back-lighting. Newer versions have white-backlighting, for example 5E0 919 719 L. You should double check before buying anything as I'm not 100% on the part numbers.

It's well known there is no hidden data, it's just the SD card CID which needs to be correct. Most SD cards have the CID locked but some versions of the Samsung Evo don't so it can be changed to match the original Skoda card. I have one here for when the maps do pass the 16GB limit which I previously used to trick my RNS-310 I'm sure I once saw that there's a file with a list of valid CIDs and some people figured out how to add an extra CID to cover their card. Can't seem to find it now though...

Pretty sure the RNS-510 list is valid: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Navigation_System_(RNS510)_Retrofitting#Gateway

@Oneshotlpm - you've bought an incompatible MFSW: - A 2016 Yeti is based on the older PQ35 platform - A 2016 Octavia is based on the newer MQB plaform You needed to buy a MFSW from another PQ35/46 platform car :)

Typically, if an option isn't fitted then there won't be any wiring or connectors fitted for it. Might be worth taking a door card off or removing the radio to check for wires

Yup, the headunit should just be using the normal 4 pairs of wires to send 4 line level signals to the amp. The amp will then split this signal up and amplify it for each speaker. Either can mess with the EQ or levels to mess the sound up... Definitely worth getting an autoscan to compare with other cars/check for obvious error codes You might want to describe in what way the sound is bad as that might help others either suggest solutions or see what you've done if they need to fix their cars.

Part number matches the one shown for a Yeti here: https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Skoda/brand/17/0/Yeti/Yeti (2010 - 2013)/Skoda/TElFNUhjdjdrTEd5ZXB3Nmd6TGdNQT09--/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:ab9918e2c58bbe639b59193ee731c508/manufacturer/0/666035450::35045 There are a few cars that use the same amp and headunit so it's possible either have been replaced or recoded in the past. If they aren't correctly coded/parameterised for a Yeti then it can sound wrong. Maybe worth trying to find another Yeti with the same sound system to compare to?

Those diagrams certainly show the problems I was expecting. You'll need an older range controller thats suitable for pre-fl xenons, your current one won't work. You'll need to check the level sensor part numbers to see if they are compatible between pre-fl and fl levelling systems too. If they are low enough not to cause glare, they'll not be high enough to be useful. Even more so as you'll have no level control at all so you'd need to adjust the headlghts with a screwdriver whenever you had passengers or a load in the boot. At the moment, the LED DRL strips have three connections, power, PWM dimming and ground. The BCM is configured to expect that style of load. If you instead fit the standard W5W bulbs you need to reconfigure the BCM to expect them and disable the DRL function. VCDS can't access the lighting configuration. VCP (3rd party tool) and ODIS-e (dealer tool) are both able to change the lighting config. It's all part of the byte 18 magic that commonly messes up peoples lights

If you have a scan, feel free to post it. Definitely get one afterwards messing with the wiring too! You'll need to do something about the xenon levelling system. The FL has slave controllers on the headlights that communicate via CAN to the master controller. A pre-FL doesn't have the extra CAN controllers in the headlights. at least if I remember correctly! You'll probably need to check a pre-FL wiring diagram and replace the level controller and possibly the level sensors too. It's worth thinking about before you start messing with the wiring. The low/dipped headlight, high/main beam and indicators will be pretty obvious but whatever wiring the headlight range adjustment needs won't be. There also won't be a wire for the sidelights/parking lights are they are not fitted on the vRS. Finally, you might even need VCP or ODIS-e to tweak the lighting config as it'll currently expect the LED DRL/sidelights which will no longer fitted.

Might be worth posting an autoscan from vcds so we can see what state your car is in?

Be careful with the Sun OBDII interface. While I'm not familiar with that specific tool, most OBDII scanners can't perform coding on VAG cars. Of those that can, few have level of detail VCDS does or indeed the support from both Rosstech and its community to help with any potencial problems. Typically, unless a change you've made can be shown to directly cause an issue, the warranty should still be valid. For instance, if you change the headunit and the turbo blows up, it should still be covered. Conversely, if you remap the car and the turbo blows up, it shouldn't be. At least that's my understanding but with all things, it depends how much time the owner, the dealership and Skoda UK put into the argument...

Does the door open symbol show on the dash when the door is open? If not, it's probably a faulty door sensor or bad wiring in the loom between the door and the car body.

99ml in 95k miles seems normal enough, that suggests the DPF should be good for ~170k assuming the commonly stated 175ml is indeed the max. Carbon mass also look fine but it's probably about to do a regen Only concern is that you say you had the DPF cleaned out? If you mean it just had a service/forced regen, that's fine. If you mean they removed it and actually cleaned it, then the oil ash volume doesn't seem right.

There are plenty of members on the forum who own VCDS, including myself. As I'm also in Norfolk, I'm probably not that far away from you depending exactly where you're based. I'm happy to follow the instructions given by ZacDaMan72. However, you have to realise that the control module software version do change frequently so although the instructions may be perfect for another Kodiaq, it does not mean they'll be correct for yours. I'll take the normal sensible precautions, namely taking an autoscan and also adaption maps from any module I make changes to. At least this way, you know what changes have been made and can revert them if needed. I cannot guarantee success but I can certainly take a look. Otherwise, you're more than welcome to try coding it yourself with my interface. If you've not used VCDS, I wouldn't recommend this option as its trivial to create problems rather than fix them Just to point out, any changes that either of us make are completely at your own risk. I am not a business and I accept no liability for any issues either directly or indirectly caused by using VCDS on your vehicle. Don't get me wrong, I'm not expecting any problems. I've worked on 10's of vehicles, including my own, without issue but if warranty and liability are something your concerned about, you should use a dealer or garage that's familiar with this style of retrofit.

For the auto headlights/wipers, I expect you'd have fault codes and if you did try and code it in, I'd expect more fault codes and possibly even a warning on the dashboard. It's not the correct sensor for your car so I'd be surprised if it would ever work. If you just try and get the auto dimming mirror working, there won't be any fault codes. Mainly as it doesn't need to communicate with the car so it won't even know it's fitted. I'm not sure it's worth the effort switching the mounts, a used auto dimming mirror for a MK3 is not an expensive thing. There are plenty on eBay in the sub £50 range, you just need to double check exactly what mount you currently have. It'll also save messing about if you ever have the windscreen replaced

A 2011 Octavia is based on the PQ35 platform whereas the 2015 will be based on the newer MQB platform so the sensors will not be compatible. The autodimming mirror would work as that's all self contained within the rear view mirror. However, as the mounts are completely different, I'd stick with the correct mirror

Yup - that's definitely the clutch slipping. Only the driver can change gears on a manual gearbox. Cruise control just adjusts the throttle to keep at the set speed, it won't change gears

It's not super clear but that reads like the OP has a slipping clutch. That would cause the RPM to increase and the gear indicator to show a lower gear. As these cars only have a reverse sensor, the forward gears are worked out from the RPM/road speed ratio.

Could be a batch of dodgy cards, I'd suggest you both go back to the sellers. I assume they are cloned cards and not genuine ones at £200+? I don't have enough experience with a RNS-315/Amundsen+ to suggest much else 😕

VCDS owners list: VCDS owners map: If nobody gets back to you, I'll probably be in Cambridge once a week as my office reopens next week

It's currently offering me http://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_1410_EU_A1_202022.zip which matches the ones in MartiniB's previous post.