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Citigopher

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Everything posted by Citigopher

  1. I'm pretty sure it was an option that was never available in the UK. I've just had a look in the 2014 brochure (from when we ordered our car) and there's no mention of it, either as standard equipment or as an optional extra. It was an option I spec'd on the Yeti I had on contract hire around the same time. It's a very useful option and would be really good to have in the Citigo.
  2. Have you tried changing the battery in your PID? I had a very similar problem with ours at the end of last year. The fix turned out to be a new battery. There are a few listed on ebay. Navigon/Garmin don't appear to offer them as a service part, so the ebay ones are probably cheap knock-offs, but the one I bought got it back up and running. If you plug your PID into a USB wall charger (not a computer), do you get a battery charge level symbol on the display?
  3. We've had our Citigo from new, for just coming up five years now. The original front brakes have been entirely reliable and problem-free and they still look as though they've got plenty of life in them, after 34k miles. So I think saying "Skoda source crap discs" is a bit of a sweeping statement. In the specific case of @Emil - because this is their thread - as the discs have been replaced (more than once?) and the problem has returned, that makes me think that the root of the problem may not lie with the discs themselves. Perhaps it's down to a peculiar driving habit and something like pad print-through, but that's usually easy to spot from a close examination of the disc surface and from all that's been said here, that doesn't sound as though it's to blame. A lot of Brembo's bread-and-butter products, discs included, are made in China nowadays. That's not necessarily a guarantee of a bad product though. Skoda won't actually make "their" discs; from what I've seen on VAG vehicles the OEM is often Pagid, but not always. The size of discs that the Citigo is fitted with are used on so many VAG cars that I wouldn't be at all surprised if they have more than one OEM supplier.
  4. Are the wheel bearings fully seated in the hubs? I admit that is going to be difficult to check, but that's been found to be the cause of repeated disc warping over on the Audi A2 Owners Club site. Looking at the 7zap drawings, the Citigo has a very similar set up to the A2. I'll double check but it looks as though the Citigo has the same wheel bearings (along with the same Gen2 installation arrangement), brake calipers, discs and pads. The hub uprights are different.
  5. I read on another thread that the EA211 isn't an interference engine, which is pretty unusual these days. Is that correct? If it is true, then the consequences of a belt failure aren't exactly dire anyway.
  6. I've just booked our Citigo in to our local Skoda dealer for a minor service, brake fluid change and MOT. It will turn 5 years old in early October and we've owned it from new (to a factory order). We bought the car from this dealer and have been very pleased with the service they've offered throughout, both pre- and post-sales. When I called, the guy on the service desk was quite insistent that our car is due a cam belt and water pump change at 5 years. Even when I challenged that, saying that I have read the official service manual and it is only due an inspection at 5 years, he stood by his original recommendation. I've left it for now. It does seem though, that Skoda UK are not correctly communicating the schedule to dealerships, or at least it's patchy. Shouldn't the dealerships themselves RTFM though? See the 5th post in this thread:
  7. For the Navigon problems, have you tried changing the battery? I've got a Garmin, but I believe they use the same battery (please check that before buying!). I got myself one of these, but there are several to be had from the 'bay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Li-Polymer-Battery-for-Garmin-361-00051-02-Dezl-560LT-Dezl-560LMT-Dezl-560LMT/171919103074?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 I had to leave it on a phone charger for a long time once I'd fitted it, but after several stops/starts/downloads, it seems to have sorted itself out. Even though it's dated tech now, I like my Garmin; such a neat idea having a removable sat nav that fully integrates with the car.
  8. I can't remember the exact details now, but if your Citigo is a 'Mk1' with a PID, check that the navigation voice isn't muted. There's a thread on this forum somewhere about it - if you mute the voice during navigation and don't turn it back on again before journey's end, you can't get it back on the next journey unless you set a new route and turn the voice back on. I think it also affects other sound output, but can't be sure - it was a few years ago now!
  9. Confirms what we all expected, I think 😥. A sad way to bring the curtain down on what is a brilliant car. We had idly contemplated getting a new one, but with this news I think we'll be holding on to ours for a few years yet. It has changed the way I perceive what a small car is.
  10. Not sure how it would work on the facelifted cars without a PID, but on ours it's possible to 'extend' the dash display to the PID and one of the dial options is (I think) coolant temperature. It might be worth having a look at the phone app for the newer cars, as it may include a similar set up.
  11. I've just looked more closely at the new price list. my tired eyes had got the symbols in the footnotes confused and it does look as though VW are killing off all UP! models except for the 60PS-engined models. That means no more High up! or GTi models. A sad day :( . All models are shown as being WLTP type approved, so I'm not sure what the reason for this could be. Those GTi's already on UK roads are going to become quite a collectors item, I reckon.
  12. Are you sure about that? I've just been on the VW site and downloaded the Up! pricelist, dated 01.04.2019 (so very current). That shows the Take and Beats as being discontinued and only order-able from stock. It looks as though the 60PS versions of everything are being canned. Prices for the GTi and High Up are all listed.
  13. I think we all know that's not going to happen now
  14. That's good to know. I've just booked ours in for four of them to be fitted tomorrow afternoon, replacing the Conti 2's that came on the car when we bought it (new). Just on 32k miles and the wear on the Conti's is very even all round, so can't complain. I really rate the Citigo. I had a Yeti 1.4 L&K for a couple of years and much preferred driving the Citigo. The Yeti has gone. The Citigo is still here (and is older than the Yeti was). 'nuff said. It's such a fun car to drive, which is a rare thing these days. Even the engine loves to rev (another rarity). Long journeys, short trips, it matters not. It's a class act. Way more more than the sum of its parts. The works Citigo manual I've seen advises that the cam belt (and water pump belt, which is separate) are checked for wear and tension at 240,000km, advising replacement only if the tension is out of spec or if there's damage to the belt. So you've got a fair bit of life in it yet
  15. @CFB - Just out of interest, what's the age / mileage of your car? Yours is the first post I've seen on here about replacing dampers.
  16. Put a microSD card in the expansion slot. The PID will use it as buffer space when it does OS and map updates. You can even set it to store the maps on the microSD, if I remember correctly. The Fresh map updates are a bit of a rip off at £55.
  17. Skoda are notorious for this. It might be worth getting in touch with Skoda UK direct to see if they can offer any assurance, though I have doubts that even they'll know the answer. Everything PR-related for Skoda is done on minimum budget, so things like images in brochures will be generic for the entire EU and as a result you could well be looking at pictures of a non-UK spec car. The (very) small print often states as much. As for the Ivory trim option, when last I looked, it's a no-cost option so is a trim 'variant' rather than a true 'optional extra' (as in 'upgrade'). I'd think it very unlikely that they would delete an option like a MFSW just because ivory is specified. As the MFSW is listed as standard equipment for SE L spec, I'd say you'd have a very strong case for rejecting the car, should it turn up without one.
  18. Does it not say on the inside of the fuel flap? I can't get at ours at the moment or I would go and have a look, but I thought it had pressures for several tyre sizes on the sticker.
  19. That reminds me - I had our Citigo well loaded up a few weeks ago, including a fairly heavy box sat on the front passenger seat. Sure enough, I got 3 beeps on start up, which kept repeating until I realised it was the seat belt warning being triggered by the box. So I plugged the seatbelt in and had an otherwise peaceful journey....
  20. That pdf is for the turbo (TSi) version of the engine, but it has some very interesting reading as I have a long term dream to fit that unit to another car. Thanks for posting!
  21. I had the chance to flick through an official Skoda service manual for the Citigo today, so had a quick look at what's stated for the timing belt (and it is a belt, not a chain!) The kilometer schedule - couldn't find anything for miles in the short time I was looking - says the belt is to be inspected (but not necessarily changed) after 240,000km, then every 30,000km. The inspection involved is pretty much all visual, looking for damaged teeth, frayed cords, damaged teeth etc. The same applies for the drive belt for the water pump. Is that a separate belt? Unlike just about every other item on the maintenance schedule, there was no time interval given for the belt inspection. Just mileage. All of this applies to 2014 model year and after. I didn't get time to see if the schedule for earlier cars is any different. As an aside, I also had a look at the manual gear ratios for the 60ps and 75ps engines as I've read so many conflicting things about them. The ratios 1st-5th are the same for both engines, but the final drive on the 75ps is actually lower than that for the 60ps: 75:18 (4.166:1) for the 75 and 74:19 (3.894:1) for the 60. That applies for all model years, as far as I could tell.
  22. I fitted Osram 7915CW 02B LED lamps last year. I think they're the same as the ones that were discussed on here some time ago. Expensive - a lot more so now than when I bought mine - but they give a very bright light (enough to manoeuvre around our driveway at night without having headlights on!) and have been reliable, touch wood. The light they give out makes my Nightbreaker extremes look yellowy. No problems at MOT time. As DRLs, all four LEDs on each lamp illuminate. When you switch to side lights, only two opposing LEDs come on, so they are half as bright, which seems a bit weird. There's no other cleverness in them - they don't dim when you indicate, for example.
  23. From what I've seen, that only delays the time it takes for the lights to turn on. What it really needs is a delay in the lights turning off. When you're driving into tunnels, underground car parks etc you want the lights to come on quickly, not have to drive in blackness for 5 seconds before your lights come on....
  24. That looks like the one. The listing I bought from has expired, so there's no point linking to it. Having used the switch for a few months, a small word of caution: The light sensor has some problems with hysteresis, or more to the point, the lack of it. If you're driving around dusk, the switch will turn itself on and then off again if for example you're driving along a road with the occasional overhanging tree. The sensor reacts very quickly to the sudden 'darkness' and turns the lights on, but it also reacts almost as quickly to the daylight restored on the other side of the tree's shadow. The on-off-on-off behaviour gets a bit tiresome. I've been digging around on the web to see if there's a function to adjust the hysteresis, so far without success. Other than that, the switch is very good. There are no problems with the quality of build - it looks, feels and switches just as well as the rest of the dash controls. The car has also just passed its MOT with the switch in place, so no problems on that front.
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