flybynite

My experience is only from the early days of doing it (in the thread I linked to above) and I remember people having trouble with Amundsen where all the Columbus (including mine ) seemed to work fine. Can't say I have the interest to re-read 14 pages to see what the outcome was, just thought something in it may be useful to to the OP. Can't help thinking the problem probably lies more with OBD eleven

Must have changed with the MIB 2.5 as I thought the Amundsen and below did not have the 'fusion mode' setting. Works as advertised on my MIB2 Columbus Not really played with a 2.5 as my HEX+CAN is not up to newer cars and don't really trust OBDeleven for coding although I do use it for VIM Must get round to getting a HexNet one day

I thought it did not work with Amundsen/Discover only Columbus/Discover Pro?

Have a read of THIS thread to get a bit of background What hardware do you have?

As said above, the smaller wheels have larger side wall and maintain the same rolling radius. It is the larger sidewall afforded by the smaller wheel that gives the greater cushion to the wheel and the car.

To be honest I have never found the wheel size to make much difference in grip. I tend to use smaller wheels for better pot-hole cushion or because some winter tyres are not as available in bigger sizes. You can tell by looking at them, blocks grip snow, sipes grip ice, grooves channel water. The mix of them on the tyre will dictate what it is good at. Although there can be huge performance difference between similar looking tyres down to finer design and compound, you can tell a lot by the design.

It is the way it used to work many moons ago, but these days I rarely venture out without my TS860 or TS860S in those conditions and they don't go quiet because they tend to grip. if they go quiet south of Watford Gap hell will have frozen over Wouldn't be the first time I have driven and stopped just fine on a surface I could not easily walk on getting out of the car.

I have been an ardent winter tyre user on everything but recently started using a set of all-season tyres (Goodyear gen2) on one machine. Although I still put a summer tyres on come spring, they have done really well. Tyre technology has moved on a lot since I bought the last set of winters and there are good all-seasons now that have the wet performance of a summer tyre but have just enough snow capability to get you home safely in occasional snow. As a one-size-fits-all in the south of the UK they look good. The only caveat I have is something I see a lot of, wet tarmac just below freezing in the very early hours, more often than not, untreated. For that you need a good, soft, well-siped winter tyre. As ever, pick the tyre for the conditions you see most. With the choice of tyres and range of abilities on offer now that is easier than it has ever been, especially with the tyre information available on the net

I have read that one too mate! Nothing on that page says it remembers anything about the way you drive. It reacts to your use of the throttle "on the basis of pre-defined driving programmes" as you do it Each model using the DQ250 will have a different set of values so comparing any Octy model to anything else (including a different Octy) is a bit pointless. Only way to change those pre-defined values is to remap the TCU. The guys who remap them for a living are not aware of any changes to the maps. What they map is fixed I have properly driven 5 DQ250 cars and still have regular access to 3 of them (jumped into many more for a blast). They all react exactly the same as last time I drove them to how I mash the throttle. There may be differences due to the self-adjustment of the clutches to maintain the bite point but I cannot see anything else that is stored. Nothing else is changed by a "Basic Reset" other than that bite point adjustment. Like I say I would still like to see something different in black and white

Probably a bit off topic but I think I'm getting it straight in my head at least I have most of those, the only thing I can see is the section on "Basic Setting" Is there another section elsewhere about it? "After a basic setting, a K0 adaption is performed approximately once per minute in “Hybrid” operating mode until the K0 bite point has been successfully adapted fifteen times. The adaption interval is then extended to eight minutes." I can see that being aggressive with the car could possibly skew the K0 adaption of the gearbox to achieve the target K1 and K2 bite points causing it to behave differently. It would seem to adapt only one way (like a conventional clutch adjuster) and not be able to adapt back 8 minutes later. I can then see how a "Basic Setting" would change the behaviour back to standard. "The driving characteristics may be affected after the basic setting procedure." But this is not the fully intentional way the gearbox logic "adapts to your driving style" using the aggressiveness of throttle usage to change the shift points in an instantaneous basis. I think some people are adding 2+2 and getting 5 with a small dose of urban myth added for effect I don't necessarily disbelieve it, just that if it is true then it will be written down somewhere. As it is the gearbox I drive daily and work on Ignoring it is not really an option

FWIW Official 16" tyre size for the MY16 Scout would be 205/60/16 92V. on a 6Jx16 wheel et48. In theory that gives clearance for snow chains Out of interest I have a MY16 4x4 but not a Scout. I find it rides fine on the factory 18" wheels, maybe a little better on the 17" winter wheels but the handling suffers. I am glad to get back on the 18s come the spring. Back lanes down south are not as good as you would think, plenty of pot holes here too. I did a long test-drive in a Scout at the time and it rode better than mine. Are you sure it has original suspension? You may find a more compliant tyre would help, Michelins have a reputation for being on the softer side. That is what I have on the 18" Final thought, the Scout 17" is meant to have 50 section tyres, has someone fitted 45 by mistake which was standard on all other Octavias?

No offence but where does it say it has a 'historic' memory of driving styles? I only read it adapts to your driving style (on the fly) with how aggressive (or not) you are with the throttle. Mine does that all the time, shift points change with how hard I mash the throttle. Works very well. my dsg6 gets driven quite gently for months and then balls-out for periods when required. In 5 years I have not known it react in the slightest bit differently to how I use my right foot depending on what it has done in the weeks or months previously. I can understand the gearbox can need a reset to compensate for use and wear made worse by some driving styles

Your battery is at 95% after 9 months. Your battery is shot or your car still thinks it is charging your old one

Well aside from all the funny ones, mine has done something similar from new, it used to bother me now I am done with it. They tend to do that, there is a fairly large tolerance on the factory ride height and quite a few octavias have the front at the upper limit and the rear at the lower limit. Because it is within limits no-one is officially interested. I will correct it one day when I replace the suspension. Just waiting to get my use out of the standard crap first. Yours does look worse than mine but not by much,

ATE standard road pads for me, use them on everything. They have a range of a dozen or so compounds they use as best fit for the particular car not a one size fits all like many pads. I find they just work. Standard Bembo disks or failing that ATE disks to go with them.

Buy an hour on Skoda ErWin and use your vin. Download the correct manuals for your vin. You are looking for the section "Axles_steering" Section 2 Axle alignment. It has the figures, but more importantly, the correct adjusting methods. If your car has adaptive cruise, assist etc then the later sections cover that but beware that doing an alignment of the camera and radar is a job that needs specialist equipment for these to continue working after certain adjustments have been done to the car.

No problem Let us know what he finds

The problem is the carrier to bearing housing bolts are stretch bolts with a torque setting and then an angle. You cannot check them like a standard bolt. They are 90nm then 90 degrees (quite difficult to do with everything around them) They should be replaced as they have already stretched. I am not advocating it but sometimes you can get a second use out of them but it has to be done by feel. If they have re-used the old bolts and torqued them to 90nm (or what felt tight) then I would say that is your problem If they have re-used the caliper to carrier bolts they should at least be cleaned and re thread-locked they are not stretch and 35nm

Be tempted to get a Hunter alignment done by someone that knows how to use it

Ceratec is what I use, but that is generally for squeal not clunking. There is a bit of play in the system but even the cheapest pads should fit correctly. To replace the disks they would have had to take the carrier off. Carrier and caliper bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced each use. They have a specific torque and angle sequence for tightening. Did the garage do this? It would not be the first time someone has put the bolts in finger tight and not torqued them up. That would probably be the first thing to look at.

Are they directional tyres? If not you could swap them to the other side (run them the opposite way) if you do, for the sake of a couple of tyre fitting charges you could swap them to the opposite wheel, (put the inside on the outside) Depends if you have directional tyres or handed ones with an 'outside'. If you have both you are a bit buggered but you could always put them on the front and wear them flat. Front wheel drive is good for that

Easy to tell if it is sawtoothing, rub your hand one way round the tread and it will feel smooth, rub it the other way it will feel rough. Some tyre makes are more prone to it than others. Wheel bearing still a possibility, that should also be easy to tell up on a ramp or axle stands.

I have to admit I think Adaptive Cruise Control is a fantastic bit of kit on long motorway runs but I do not use Lane Assist as I think it is not there yet. Both of the aids above make a LOT of use of when you indicate so you need to think about that. Lane Assist would help if you nodded off or wandered out of lane, it would probably keep you in lane and save the usual pile-up if you had a motorway heart attack. It does, however, have a couple of failings like following painted-over white lines through road works in low sun when they often shine brighter than the actual painted lines. I can't think of an easy fix for that. If you are cutting the apex of a bend it sometimes gives you a really unhelpful shove back into the middle of the road exactly mid-bend. I tend to leave it switched off. I would make use of the blind-spot warning (which is one thing my Octy does not have)

I think this is a case of RTFM Nothing on those screens says "Lane Assist" You have "Front Assist" which was standard on many Octavias. That will warn you if you are too close to the car in front or it thinks you are about to crash. It will also apply the brakes to stop a slow speed impact. If the car did not come with a full handbook, it can be downloaded from one of the stickies at the top of this forum. It is useful to know what these cars do before it does it to you and takes you by surprise. It is all in the manual (p133 Assist systems)

Unfortunately I don't have the part numbers anymore, it was a while ago To be honest you are just as well looking it up on ETKA, or phoning a Stealer/TPS depot with a reg number of a car off autotrader. That is what i would do if looking now. I can confirm the 21.7x3.6 Golf 7R rear bar fits on an Octavia 4x4 and works. The only ones I can find for the 21.7x3.6 size bar are 5Q0 511 305 BA 2wd 5Q0 511 305 BF 4wd (there is also a 21.7mm bar that is 3.0mm thick that I believe is the std GTI bar which is not what you want.) Also facelift vRS with the wider track may have a different bar