flybynite

Not sure about the EA211 but on the EA888 It is basically a three stage process. 1) Heat the water (including the heater circuit) 2) Use the heated water to heat the oil (it also has a reduced oil circuit until warm) 3) When up to temp the circuit is opened. The system then controls the temperature between 85 and 107 °C depending on engine load and speed It is what I do, given it uses water to heat the oil I think it makes sense

Yes it's been done by @SashaGrace on here but I have them on mine from new and IMHO I wouldn't bother. They take ages to open and often leak and fail.

The Gen-3 EA888 has a very clever 3-circuit cooling system, it shuts off the radiator and other bits to allow the engine to warm the water quicker. It then opens things up as it gets warmer. A very advanced 'thermostat' if you like. As you have found, very effective

FFS why keep on showing what you don't know. Like I said above the air gets in past the threads, venturi effect from the fluid going out the centre and can move up against the flow or when you close the valve. Minimised by doing it at the correct pressure, in the correct order, with the correct equipment. This all started because you said it does not matter what order it is done, sorry it does. I'm done trying to explain engineering to flat-earthers. It is why you should read manuals not forums. I'm done here too

Backflow is not the problem, a bubble of air can travel against the flow in a pipe that rises from the brake to the M/C or ABS unit Like I say you do it your way , I just do it by the book. It is the way it was mostly done before modern ABS units, most times you probably get away with it, but not the first dealer serviced car I have had with spongy brakes cured with a correct brake bleed. Good luck with it, Is your 4x4 petrol or diesel?

The problem is with certain ABS units (including those used by Skoda) you have to restrict the pressure. Some you have to cycle the ABS unit which also gives opportunity to get air into the system. Bubbles travel fast in the new-type fluids.

Look at Vagbremtechnic Dave Brown that runs it knows his stuff about VAG brakes. Still a fair bit that can be done with std calipers (have you tried Project Mu pads?) Anything with a piston outside the caliper not likely to fit under a standard Skoda wheel. It is not just the offset it is the spoke design too.

Correct in theory but if you do not open it carefully air can get in past the thread as the fluid comes through the centre. Unless you get the correct flow air can get in and travel up. But air can get in anywhere, hardened piston seals, dirt in the seals, that let air in as the get hot and cool. A brake service is also an opportunity to purge the system of this air as well as the moisture that makes its way into the system. Like I say there are correct ways of doing it and there will always be people that think they know better.

You bleed the brakes for many reasons, one of them is air in the system or a new component with air in it. OP did not specify what he was doing. Even if is under the correct pressure the moment you release the bleeder air can enter round the bleeder thread and (as I guess you know) the bubble will rise in the fluid to the highest point. The modern low viscosity fluids make this worse, bubbles move faster and are more difficult to push air out. If there is no air in the system then for a fluid change you risk pushing old fluid around and contaminating the new fluid. There are procedures laid down in the manuals for a reason that work in all situations but there will always be someone who thinks they know better.

???

There is often more than one correct sequence to bleed the corners, it depends on the internal layout of the ABS unit. There can also be a difference between LHD and RHD cars. If you use the wrong sequence you can end up pushing air around in the unit instead of flushing it down to a wheel bleeder Glad you are not bleeding my brakes then

Most just ditch them hidden half an hour round the corner to wait, but there are trackers that can remain dormant for over 12 months. There are some that can also penetrate a container.

Autowatch Ghost

Probably better to start another thread on this, but if they want it they will get it. There is not a single thing you could do to the car that they could not get you to undo at knife/gun/crowbar/machete point at 3am in your house. If they break in looking for keys they are fully aware they might meet the owner and generally come prepared for that eventuality. My place is more secure than most, they would not get in quietly and between dogs and shotguns I would give them a run for their money but you have to ask yourself how much a replicable car is worth in injury and agro. Ghost with transmission lock (if you have a DSG) is probably the one that would fool them best (if fitted well) , A tracker that is dormant until activated is another good one, but if you see the way they are driven ........... would you want it back?

Look out on ebay for bits of it, cars like these are normally broke within 24hrs

First of all get the tracking done by someone with a Hunter Rig and knows what to do with it. Some tyres are more prone but there is often a cause like alignment. If it is caused by "sawtoothing" you can feel it by feeling the tyre tread one direction then the other with the palm of your hand. if it feels different then you have a sawtooth step in the tread. (google it for videos better than I can explain) You can try reversing the tyre direction, (swap sides) or swap the fronts to the back, see if it changes. It may also be a wheel bearing but they are easy to spot on a ramp and tend to be a constant noise at all speeds but not always.

Space saver is 125/70/18 on something like a 3.5jx18 generally used on cars with big brakes (Some VAG cars use these sizes on a 16") 205/55/16 on a 6x16" wheel is the usual Octy full size spare If you are looking for a spare you can just get another one of your road wheels which will fit, (depending on the depth of the rim protector on the tyre)

No Picking a tyre more suited to the conditions will help traction. A softer tyre, 16" wheels or better dampers may help the ride but it is well known there is not a great deal to be done to the torsion beam suspension. If you go outside the standard tyre size be sure to check your insurance don't consider it a modification

I can sympathise with the sentiment but unfortunately the sad truth is you will get the same with just about all cars and manufacturers. There will be ones that have never needed a spanner and ones that are never without one, all in the same model and year. After years of BMW ownership including 2 new cars, I swore I would never have another

It would be more confusing but the Super Sport is not a PS4, it is a Pilot Super Sport (PSS) Good tyre but it was replaced by the PS4S which is better Another vote from me, PS4 on the Octy and no plan to get anything different. On things with a bit more power I tend to use PS4S. GY range are good tyres currently and in real daily use just as good, they are cheaper and also have mother of rim protectors, which is useful. I have another favourite tyre though : Bridgestone A005 evo. not the quietest tyre but absolutely stonking tyre in the biblical rain we seem to get in the UK, doesn't melt in what we call a summer and will keep you out of a ditch if it does actually snow. I use it as a winter tyre when the PS4S comes off. Octy stil gets proper winters though as they work on wet ice.

PS4 or PS4S (PS4s or PS4Ss) ?

Well I have both, they are evenly specc'd and I hop between them on a regular basis and in most cases I prefer the Octy. No heated front screen in the Audi More rear legroom in the Octy Personally I find the Columbus touchscreen far easier to use than the fiddly MMI plus. I don't think the B&O sounds as impressive as it's price would suggest Driving position far better in the Octy, A3 does not go low enough. You don't need 7 gears in a car and the DQ250 is one of the best gearboxes made People let a Skoda out of junctions Just no comparison at all between what you can get in an Octy compared to any A3 Later Audis also do that diving for second gear, it is an emissions thing. Earlier cars were generally better but there were obviously overlaps, you probably have the first of the Skoda that did and had the last of the Audis that didn't. My 2018 Audi is terrible but nothing that a good DSG remap will not cure. The Audi has better suspension but that is nothing that cannot be retrofitted They are both MQB The Audi is better finished but not by as much as you would think, Audis still rattle and they are noisy over bad roads Seats are better in the Audi. Audi tend to do more 4x4 petrol cars but Skoda do some

Not a stupid question at all, Depends on the code but generally if it has been cleared then it is gone. If a dealer tech has cleared it without recording it they want shooting. One reason I scan all of my cars before they get within smelling distance of a dealer service centre.

I don't know why you don't just take t to a good indi and get them to do a proper brake fluid flush and change using the proper equipment at the proper pressures, then do a fault scan and reset faults. Dealers are often just fitters and useless at fault tracing. As I said above if it has lit the CEL it will be logged along with many parameters and can be looked at using either the dealer system or VCDS. As others have said Brake fluid is NOT part of the servicing. It is recommended and offered as an additional service like aircon re-gas. It could have a full dealer service history and 6 year old brake fluid.

There is a list of insurers and their requirements for winter wheels and tyres https://www.abi.org.uk/products-and-issues/choosing-the-right-insurance/motor-insurance/winter-tyres/ There is also a list of approved wheel and tyre sizes for the Octy listed in erWin tech manual specific to the model. If you stay within those sizes I would say you are bulletproof insurance wise. I don't have details for the 245 but the smallest approved combinations for the previous vRS were 225/45/17 on a 7.5J and 205/50/17 on a 6J (the latter size being approved for snow chain use.